Noisy headset

[redjedi]

I think my headset (threadless Aheadset) needs servicing but not sure.

I have been getting a lot of "cracking" sounds coming from my handlebar area recently, mainly when standing and putting the power down.
I've recently changed the handles from flat to drops but I had the problem before that, but it's since got a lot worse.

I first thought it might be the new adjustable stem, but I've swapped it over for a normal one and it didn't make any difference.

So I've been making sure all the bolts are tight, handle bar clamp, steerer clamp and adjusting bolt make very little difference.

But I found that if I tighten the top bolt it gets better. But I'm worried that i've had to tighten it too much.
I tightened it as much as I could last night and it was fine for a few miles but then started again. This morning wasn't too bad but I was taking it easy.

From what I've read it shouldn't be this tight. It has never been serviced since I got it 18 months ago, and it was an old model (Bianchi via nirone 06) so would have been sitting around for a while in Evans warehouse.

When I took the top cap off (when changing the bars) there was a lot of dirt and grease around the inside, so I wiped it out.

Should I take it apart and re-grease it? How do I do this?

Do I need a new headset?

Do you have any other ideas?

Thanks

 

[bonj2]

check if there's play in the headset - pull the front brake on and try and rock the handlebars back and forward - you should be able to feel any play in the headset if there is any.
If so, then tighten the top cap, but you have to loosen the stem bolts first (the bolts that clamp the stem to the steerer).

 

[zacklaws]

I had this problem and no matter how many times I tightened it up it would start creaking again, untill I came across a video on Youtube how to do it correctly and problem solved.


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRFqU07u8DE

 

[redjedi]

I've just been to have to look.

I didn't notice any movement inthe headset, but it was quite stiff to move left/right, probably because the bolt was so tight.

So I undid it all and set it up as in the video. I won't know if it made a difference until I ride it, so I'll update when I get home.

While looking at it, I did notice a small gap underneath (where the forks meet the frame) of about 1mm which look as if it had some dirt in it.
And on top where the headset meets the frame it didn't look to be completely flush (slightly off centre by about 0.5-1mm)

Is it worth taking it all off, wiping all the bits down and re-greasing? Will I need any special tools for this?

P.S. It's a Cane Creek headset if it makes a difference.

 

[fossyant]

It's well worth cleaning and re-greasing the headset. Ahead's are so much easier than the old threaded ones to service.

 

[Steve Austin]

Don't tighten it if its stiff. If its stiff its because it needs greasing, its too tight or its broken.

There is a really good guide on the Park tools site for maintenance. worth having a look at that
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65
You can service most Headsets now with the aid of a set of allen keys and it shouldn't take more than ten minutes.

Creaking form the steering area could be the bar stem interface. But then again it could be the saddle of the cranks or the BB. I once stripped a whole bike down to find it was the front mech cable catching the cranks that was causing the most amazingly loud tick i have ever heard from a bike.

 

[2PedalsTez]

I had similar problems with mine on my new bike. After a few miles I would get 'play' from the headset that would be 'fixed' by re-fitting. Then another ride and it would be back again.

Spoke to supplier and eventually discovered that the fork bung was/had slipped enough to cause the problem. Fitted a new bung and problem gone

 

[redjedi]

Well I just finished my Sunday Service with mixed results.

After giving the bike a quick clean I set upon the headset. I rigged up a makeshift work stand (must get a proper one) and took out the forks. The first time I had ever done this.

The steerer tube, washers and bearing were covered in muck, so long over due.

The top bearings weren't too bad but the bottom ones were dryer than a ........(insert reference of your choice, mine includes nuns ).

Popped down to lbs to see if they had any bearing cartridges in stock. Obviously they didn't, but the guy did offer to take the seal off and put some new grease in for me (FOC as well), which made a huge difference to them, but I will need to replace them soon. The lbs can replace the bearings which will be cheaper than replacing the whole lot.

Skipped home and put it all back together again, lots more grease used.
Went for a quick spin and first signs are looking good. Real test will come on the first commute.

That was the good news.

The bad news is that while I was on the test ride, I heard a couple of loud cracking noises coming from the saddle area, which had been there for a long time. With a fresh tube of grease in hand I set about greasing the rails and the seat tube.
But when I was doing up the collar, it snapped

Not the end of the world, I have a brand new one but it is the wrong size

So the real test of the headset will have to wait until tuesday after I stop off at Evans on the way home tomorrow.

Fingers crossed.

 

[redjedi]

Silence is golden!!!!!!

Greased and fitted the new seatpost clamp, which holds my saddle a lot better than the old one, which is probably why I had to tighten it so much.

I still an annoying sound coming from the crank area, mostly when I stood up and pushed hard.

So with my new best friend (a tube of teflon grease ) I removed the pedals and crank bolt, greased and re-fitted (I think it was the pedals).

Not so much as a whimper this morning (except from the other commuters I left behind )



Anyone want to race home??

 

[zacklaws]

>>>Anyone want to race home?? <<<

Not when you've got that much grease on your bike, if a blob falls off I could splatter my frame with it or slide off