Newbie trying to fix his bicycle

[shucks]

Hey guys, thanks for taking the time to read this!

My name is Damien and I'm new here. I was hoping to get some help on fixing my rear tyre which suffered a punctured inner tube a few days back.

I've never actually fixed anything on my bike before but I've looked at YouTube videos on how to change the inner tubes/ remove rear tyre etc. and I think I would like to give it a try myself before sending it to the professionals. However, I've encountered some problems, particularly finding the right inner tube for my tyre, the tools I require etc.

To give you guys a quick background, I own a Giant Escape 1 2014 Bike and these are the questions that I have:

1) What kind of inner tube should I be getting/ what size should it be? I find it rather fortunate that I've been using this bicycle day in day out for over a year and this is my first puncture, I'm not sure what is the stock inner tube Giant fits into their wheels but I would love to get the same one.

Just some specs that I've searched online, the wheel is a Giant S-X2 puncture protect 700x32mm (I'm guessing 700x32mm is the size of the inner tube I should be looking for but I get confusing results as I browsed through all the online shops) It would be great if someone could recommend me a particular size or brand of inner tube.

2) What kind of equipment do I require? I'm guessing I would only require a Tyre lever and an air pump? My rear wheel has a quick release so that's not too bad. Also if there's any special tyre lever I should be looking out for that would be amazing.

3) Lastly, this is kind of a different topic, but because I've failed to take proper care of my bike (which I regret now and promise not to do so again), my bicycle chain has rusted horribly, and even though it's working well, I would like to change it, plus the pedals are starting to make squeaky noises.

And I'm thinking now would be a good time to do so considering that removing the rear wheel would give me access to removing the chain. I've checked Giant's website and this is the chain that's currently on my bike: KMC X9 w/Missing Link. As I googled it, I found a few different variations with similar names and am not sure which is the correct one. Any help on this would be appreciate too!

Thanks a lot guys!

Damien

tl;dr - Newbie trying to fix his bicycle, needs help identifying size/brand of inner tube, equipment required, and size/brand of bike chain.

 

[summerdays]

Tyre/tube sizes I'm not good at, but fixing a puncture is doable.

You need repair kit or new inner tube (I normally repair them), tyre levers and a pump. Talc is also good to ease the tyre back on. Don't fret about how long it takes first time, I've often taken an hour and if it's the first time the tyre is off the rim it may be tighter..... Good luck

Chain ... You will also need a chain splitter to make the chain to the correct length (count the number of links you have and make sure you try to join male/female, rather than what I tried to do the first time )

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Hi and Damien

Even if you repair the current tube it's not a bad idea to have a spare or few to hand. The numbers on the tyre mean that it is a 32mm wide tyre to fit a 700C type wheel (which confusingly is 622mm diameter) and is a very common size so readily available.

Tubes are stretchy so you'll find them marked up as fitting a range of sizes, for example: 700x28-37. As long as your tyre is within the range shown it'll be fine. Pretty much any brand will do the job - the puncture resistance is built into the tyre not the tube so don't worry about that.

You will neeed to match the type of valve to what you currently have though - there are two common types, Presta which is thin and has a small nut built into the valve to lock it closed and Schraeder which is wider and is the same style as on a car.

Two tyre levers are needed and be sure to check round the inside of the tyre while it's off to make sure that whatever caused the flat isn't still there. If you feel round with fingers be careful as the foreign object will likely be sharp. A good trick is to wipe round the inside with a bit of cotton wool which will snag on anything there.

With the chain I think that's already well covered above. KMC is a good brand. Do get one of those.

Be careful to get the routing through the mechanisms right (I'm sure most of us have got that wrong at some point)

 

[Levo-Lon]

28x34 tube..

pop to halfords or any bike shop..and they will supply all you need..

This websit is a must read for a beginner..everything is covered for diy home repairs.
yes you will need basic tools but its all good fun and you will be able to fix the bike on the move etc
http://www.parktool.com/

 

[MikeW-71]

Chain replacement explained as clearly as I've ever seen it


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWchudX-Tqs

 

[shucks]

Hi and Damien

Even if you repair the current tube it's not a bad idea to have a spare or few to hand. The numbers on the tyre mean that it is a 32mm wide tyre to fit a 700C type wheel (which confusingly is 622mm diameter) and is a very common size so readily available.

Tubes are stretchy so you'll find them marked up as fitting a range of sizes, for example: 700x28-37. As long as your tyre is within the range shown it'll be fine. Pretty much any brand will do the job - the puncture resistance is built into the tyre not the tube so don't worry about that.

You will neeed to match the type of valve to what you currently have though - there are two common types, Presta which is thin and has a small nut built into the valve to lock it closed and Schraeder which is wider and is the same style as on a car.

Two tyre levers are needed and be sure to check round the inside of the tyre while it's off to make sure that whatever caused the flat isn't still there. If you feel round with fingers be careful as the foreign object will likely be sharp. A good trick is to wipe round the inside with a bit of cotton wool which will snag on anything there.

With the chain I think that's already well covered above. KMC is a good brand. Do get one of those.

Be careful to get the routing through the mechanisms right (I'm sure most of us have got that wrong at some point)

Hey Phil,

Thanks for the welcome and this detailed description! especially about Presta and Schraeder, I wouldn't have noticed it and that would be disastrous. However I came across 48mm vs 60mm Presta valves, do you have any idea if the difference matters at all? and if so, how do i check my bike to see which size is the valve?

Cheers

 

[shucks]

Tyre/tube sizes I'm not good at, but fixing a puncture is doable.

You need repair kit or new inner tube (I normally repair them), tyre levers and a pump. Talc is also good to ease the tyre back on. Don't fret about how long it takes first time, I've often taken an hour and if it's the first time the tyre is off the rim it may be tighter..... Good luck

Chain ... You will also need a chain splitter to make the chain to the correct length (count the number of links you have and make sure you try to join male/female, rather than what I tried to do the first time )

Chain replacement explained as clearly as I've ever seen it


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWchudX-Tqs

Thanks for the help guys! I just realised the number behind X9 is actually the number of links there are in the chain, no wonder I couldn't find any chain that was like mine.

Quick question though, I found KMC X9 73 and 93, and obviously I would buy the 73 cause it's cheaper but I don't think that would be smart if it ended up too short for my bike. Do you guys have any opinions on that?

Also, I realised my current chain is one with a quick link, I'm not exactly sure if the new chains I'll buy will come with it, or do I have to purchase an add-on to make it one with quick link?

Sorry for the noob questions and appreciate the help guys!

Cheers

 

[mrandmrspoves]

......and when you have the tyre off, before you put the new inner tube in check on the inside of the tyre to see if what caused the problem is still there. A useful tip is to use a small ball of cotton wool and run it round the inside of the tyre. It will snag on anything sharp and help you find it. This is particularly useful when out on the road on a cold day when your fingers are a little bit numb and not sensitive enough for you to realise that you have shredded a finger tip on a flint/nail/thorn/shard of glass etc....and when finished also check the tyre tread for objects embedded that have not yet penetrated - but will do if left. (Worth checking this after every Winter ride - especially if it is wet)

 

[shouldbeinbed]

Nothing to add to the above advice but to commend it to you as worth listening to and say welcome aboard. Park Tools do very good tyre levers as well as providing a good website.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Hey Phil,

I came across 48mm vs 60mm Presta valves, do you have any idea if the difference matters at all? and if so, how do i check my bike to see which size is the valve?

Cheers

A Presta is a Presta - but some have longer stems to fit into deeper rims. You can use a long stem on any wheel - but a short stem may not be long enough for some rims.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Hey Phil,

Thanks for the welcome and this detailed description! especially about Presta and Schraeder, I wouldn't have noticed it and that would be disastrous. However I came across 48mm vs 60mm Presta valves, do you have any idea if the difference matters at all? and if so, how do i check my bike to see which size is the valve?

Cheers

The different lengths of valve are to cope with aero profile wheel rims as with these the shorter ones would be lost inside the rim. Assuming you have the original wheels they are an ordinary profile and would use the shorter valves but the longer ones wouldn't be a problem if that was all you could get.

Regarding the chain, the numbers after X9 are not the number of links but refer to the quality of the chain. Here is KMC's web page for the 9 speed chains: http://www.kmcchain.eu/chain-trekking-multispeed-9_speed

Chains usually come as standard with 116 links or so (varies between manufacturers) and you will need a chain tool to shorten it to suit your bike. The cheaper chain will do the job fine. The next one up has a nicer finish and will be a bit more resistant to corrosion (but will still need looking after)

 

[phantasmagoriana]

If you've been using the bike daily for over a year, you may well find that the cassette is worn too - in which case you'll have to change it as well as the chain. If you put the new chain on and find that it skips around, it's probably time to change it.

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Also, next time you are trying to size a tyre or inner tube, no need to Google: the info is stamped on the sidewall of the tyre and on the tube, plus on the tyre you will find recommended minimum and maximum values for pumping it up
Good luck, let us know how you got on.

 

[MichaelW2]

Whilst you have the tyre off, check the rim tape: if it has any sharp edges or is distorted and displaced from the central "well", you should replace it with a better one such as Velox. It should be OK.
Also check the valve hole for sharp edges and sand off.
The central "well" is key to easy mounting of tight tyres. If you can persuade the wire tyre bead to sit in the well, you gain some extra slack which you need to persuade the final bit of bead onto the rim. Take care not to pinch the new tube with the tyre bead.

std practice is to replace the inner tube and repair the old one at your leisure. There is really no limit to the number of patches you can apply.

 

[jefmcg]

If you haven't got a multitool, I'd recommend this one http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-hexus-ii-16-function-multi-tool/ . It includes a very good chain breaker. But before you break your chain, try oiling it. Use the @mickle method (do we still call it that?) http://www.cyclorama.net/blog/advice/51/ You just need some oil, and an bit of an old t-shirt. If it's still moving well, the rust may be just cosmetic, and this should clean it up. Generally I'd expect a chain to last longer than a tube.

Edit: Don't use the tyre levers on the multitool. Apparently they break easily, and you need them for other purposes. I like Park Tools levers http://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-tl1c-tyre-levers/