New wheels

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rb58

Enigma
Location
Bexley, Kent
Some advice please....

I got a new road bike a few weeks back and to keep it within budget I had to compromise somewhere, so I had it finished with Fulcrum Racing 7s. Within the next couple of months I will be looking to upgrade these, but am not really sure what I should be looking for in a wheel set. So, I did a list:

* Weight - it's a titanium bike so want something appropriate.
* Speed - what influences speed in the wheel, is it just the hub?
* Comfort - my rides tend to be longer (century a month etc.), and not too 'racy' so don't want something too harsh.
* Strength - I'm not the lightest rider in the peloton :whistle: and the roads round here aren't exactly smooth.
* Durability - Don't want to be forever in the LBS having them trued
* Maintainability - don't want something that is difficult to maintain (I think I read somewhere about some wheels having internal spoke nipples - are these harder to look after?)

I assume spoke pattern, shape, thickness etc. is important for strength, durability and maintainability? And is the general rule the more spokes the stronger the wheel?

* Noise - the Fulcrums are pretty loud (freehub?) and I'd prefer something quieter
* Looks - :rolleyes:
* Factory or hand built? I presume hand built is better, but more expensive? And would you start at your LBS, or a specialist. Who are these specialists?

I know in the end it'll be a compromise on some of these dimensions, but would appreciate the wisdom of this group to help me with my research.

Or maybe the Fulcrum 7s are okay and I shouldn't bother upgrading?? With that in mind, how much do you think I should budget before I would notice the difference?

Sorry, it's a rambling list of questions.....

Thanks

Ross
 

Kestevan

Last of the Summer Winos
Location
Holmfirth.
One of your first considerations is going to be Budget.

Strong, Light, Cheap
Pick Any 2.

The Fulcrums are a decent set of wheels at a lowish price. Your'e going to have to spent considerably more (i would think) to get anything more than a moderate increase in performance.

However, once you've set a realistic budget then people may have more suggestions.
Even then I suspect it will come down to recommending a good set of hand-built wheels from a specialist builder.
 
OP
OP
rb58

rb58

Enigma
Location
Bexley, Kent
^^^
Thanks!

Realistically, I think budget will max out at £400, although if I can spend less I will. Would I notice much difference for that kind of money?
 

zigzag

Veteran
it depends really what type of riding will you do and why you want to change your current wheels. for long and challenging rides i like wheels and frame to be as stiff as possible, but run lower pressure tyres and have other comfort features (e.g. leather saddle, gel underneath the bar tape). so far i've been quite happy with mavic ksyrium sl's - stiff, strong and fairly light, also easy to service and get the tyres on/off. you can get a pair of new/almost new sl's on the 'bay for about £300-400. if i decided to race, then i'd probably get some aero wheels, like zipps, dura ace or custom made mid section carbon ones. for general riding any half decent set of wheels will do really, i'd use fulcrum 7's until they are worn, then look for another set.
 

eldudino

Bike Fluffer
Location
Stirling
Budget and riding type would suggest handbuilts. You're not going to be saving a huge amount of weight at that price, but you don't want something that's ultralight for your type of riding, you'll get a nice handbuilt for your money though. Best thing to do is to start researching local wheelbuilders and ask at what your money will get you.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
Fwiw my prejudiceview is as follows:
If you want light and flashy, factory built wheels will generally have the advantage at that price point. A benefit of custom handbuilt wheels is that components are easier to source and replace and therefore maintained/repaired. Also many factory built wheels have low spoke count (hence light and flashy etc.) which does negatively impact reliability under load and performance when imperfect.

Imho hubs have little if any effect on speed or acceleration, but do influence reliability.

Lightness of tyres, tubes, rims and spokes have the most impact on rolling inertia and hence acceleration and feel. For handbuilt wheels here is where they are limited in practice to which rims and spokes in the market are the lightest yet adequately robust (probably something like if not exactly Open Pro and DT Revolution). Most of the expense of expensive handbuilt wheels have nowhere to go but to the hubs, which as aforesaid have limited effect on speed/acceleration.

You may want to consider whether wheel aerodynamics and conversely behaviour in crosswind are important to you. If you ride fast steadily aerodynamics will be even more important than rolling inertia.

Whether you have a Campag or Shimano/sram system will have an effect on choice available.
 

PK99

Legendary Member
Location
SW19
* Weight - it's a titanium bike so want something appropriate.
* Speed - what influences speed in the wheel, is it just the hub?
* Comfort - my rides tend to be longer (century a month etc.), and not too 'racy' so don't want something too harsh.
* Strength - I'm not the lightest rider in the peloton :whistle: and the roads round here aren't exactly smooth.
* Durability - Don't want to be forever in the LBS having them trued
* Maintainability - don't want something that is difficult to maintain (I think I read somewhere about some wheels having internal spoke nipples - are these harder to look after?)


I tick all those boxes....

My Van nicholas yukon is on order and I've had a pair of wheels built by Harry Rowland for £260: 36 spoke Mavic Open Pro on Ultegra hubs.

I have (errrm...) a surplus of stored energy round my middle and a history of wrecking rear wheels so wheel weight and bling looks are not top priority, robust functionality is; plus I will be doing light touring so want something for which i can get new spokes out in the boondocks.

Harry's wheels are highly recommended by many
 

frank9755

Cyclist
Location
West London
What is wrong with the wheels?

As Rimas and others have said, if you're not racing, I'd just wear them out. Then you could either get some factory made, stiff, wheels like Mavic or some nice handbuilts.

I've got Ambrosio Excellence rims and Ultegra hubs, built by Paul Hewitt, on my best bike and love them but I also like the factory built wheels on other bikes. I think the tyres make more difference to the ride, although quality hubs will always roll better. By all means get new wheels if you want to (maybe for the summer), but you could get plenty of miles out of those you have.
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
I tick all those boxes....

My Van nicholas yukon is on order and I've had a pair of wheels built by Harry Rowland for £260: 36 spoke Mavic Open Pro on Ultegra hubs.

I have (errrm...) a surplus of stored energy round my middle and a history of wrecking rear wheels so wheel weight and bling looks are not top priority, robust functionality is; plus I will be doing light touring so want something for which i can get new spokes out in the boondocks.

Harry's wheels are highly recommended by many

ditto on ticking the boxes.

My handbuilt Open Pros on 105 hubs (36 spoke 3 x) have been utterly excellent, not too heavy, plenty fast enough, and utterly reliable, even when I did my best to mullah them by popping CX tyres on, and going for an off-road tour.

OK so next time I might just try 32 spoke front, maybe DT 465 rims, but you are very unlikely to ever see me on some blingy 20/24 spoke factory builts
 
Unless you are out of the saddle quite a bit stick with the 7 front wheel and invest in a Mavic Ksyrium SL rear wheel.

Expensive wheels at the front are a bit of a waste if you stay in the seat IMHO.
 
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