New 105 Shifter very stiff

[Alembicbassman]

Just been setting up the 105 shifters on the new bike.

The cassette shifters work fine with a nice click

But when shifting from the larger to smaller chainring the lever is quite stiff and shifts with a loud clunk.

I've tried adjusting the pinch nut on the cable, but this has no effect. The shifter works OK under no tension.

My old 105 shifters were much smoother.

Is this normal?

 

[Smokin Joe]

Sounds like a sticking cable. That would be unusual on a new bike but there might be a bit of crap lodged in there somewhere or the inner might be frayed.

Take the cable off, pull the inner through and see if reassembling makes a difference.

 

[roadiewill]

I had this on one of my new 105 shifters and I had to have it replaced. Basically, the guy at my LBS said that quite a few of the new 105 shifters have had this problem, so he just replaced it with a nw one and it was fine. When my was was clunky, it 'clunked' a few times before completely locking out meaning I couldnt shift at all... get it checked out!

 

[jpembroke]

Before you go replacing cables, mechs etc just check how you've routed the cable at the front mech's clamp bolt . Where the bolt screws in to the mech there is a tiny metal plate that sticks out and overlaps the bolt by about 3mm. Make sure you route the cable outside of this and not under it. If you look there is a machined groove on the mech face and on the washer. Use that as a guide. The cable should come from the bottom bracket, run behind/outside of that little plate, run over the top of the bolt and end up pointing towards you parallel to the ground.

I hope that makes sense - not easy to explain. If you can spot the little shallow groove in the mech then hopefully it should be clear.

I re-routed a cable for someone this evening who had this very same problem: very stiff up shifts and great clunking down shifts. Routed the cable correctly and it's really smooth now.

 

[beancounter]

My LH 105 shifter was very stiff, then it broke.

The LBS has just replaced it under warranty.

bc

 

[jpembroke]

I've now seen a couple of instances of very stiff and clunky LH STis that have been easily cured by re-routing and clamping the cable correctly at the front mech. Just that tiny difference in angle has made all the difference between near impossible shifting and really smooth shifting you'd associate with an STi. I'm concerned that people, unaware of this problem, have persevered until the STi finally gives up.

That's not to say there aren't duff STis out there but I just think checking cable routing at the front mech should be the first port of call.

 

[beancounter]

I've now seen a couple of instances of very stiff and clunky LH STis that have been easily cured by re-routing and clamping the cable correctly at the front mech. Just that tiny difference in angle has made all the difference between near impossible shifting and really smooth shifting you'd associate with an STi. I'm concerned that people, unaware of this problem, have persevered until the STi finally gives up.

That's not to say there aren't duff STis out there but I just think checking cable routing at the front mech should be the first port of call.

Totally fair point, however if my cable was routed incorrectly then it was the LBS wot did it. So it went back to them anyway.

bc

 

[jpembroke]

Fair enough. I'm sure it was a duff STi in your case but definitely something to bear in mind and it's such a subtle detail that it can be easily overlooked - basically just the cable the round wrong side of the bolt.

 

[roadiewill]

My LH 105 shifter was very stiff, then it broke.

The LBS has just replaced it under warranty.

bc

Sounds about right

 

[Marin Maniac]

I've just replaced my left Tiagra brifter and the old and new one were/are clunky!

 

[jpembroke]

At the risk of becoming intensely boring, have you checked the cable routing at front mech as in my first post above. Seriously, it's the a common cause of clunky, stiff LH shifting and doesn't cost anything to solve. Just make sure the cable goes over the bolt. The cable should follow the shallow machined groove in the face of the mech; it should not be clamped under the tiny protruding plate but instead run of the top of it. This slight change in angle makes all the difference.

Perhaps compare your set up with another bike with same sort of front mech that doesn't have the shifting problem.

Two people I know have been saved buying new shifters by doing this.

Right, I'll shut up and never mention it again.