Need advice on shifting gears

[rockyraccoon]

Hi everyone,

I am 30 year old and I've just started cycling a MTB (nothing special, just a cheap 18 spd ). Last time I was on a bike was 17 years ago.

Now that I am back to it I'm wondering...

What is the best gear combination and how to shift gears in an appropriated way when cycling?

When I stop for any reason (e.g. red lights) which gear should I shift to? Should I change to the gear which there is least cabel tension?

 

[HLaB]

We're all different but I like to cycle 90% of the big ring and swap to the middle of the cassette at junctions the top of the cassette on flats and downhills and the bottom of cassette on hills. Being in the middle of cassette for me at least means I can quickly react to lights and it just feels right in traffic. Other folk do similar but in the middle ring I believe. Other folk I believe like to be in a lower gear and spin away from stop. I try to avoid changing the chainring unless I need to (hills/ headwind are too hard) I find that changing chainrings can upset the ride.
Edit: I hope my ramblings help.

 

[jimboalee]

Find a large quiet area. A disused airfield for instance.

Put the bike in its lowest gear. Come to a halt. Accelerate away. Pedaling too fast? Change up one gear and come to a halt. Accelerate away. Still pedaling too fast? Change up one gear and come to a halt. Accelerate away. So I don't have to repeat this ten times, keep repeating until you find a comfortable gear to accelerate away from rest.

Remember which one it is. Up gradients will require lower, but this will come with experience.

 

[jimboalee]

We're all different but I like to cycle 90% of the big ring and swap to the middle of the cassette at junctions the top of the cassette on flats and downhills and the bottom of cassette on hills. Being in the middle of cassette for me at least means I can quickly react to lights and it just feels right in traffic. Other folk do similar but in the middle ring I believe. Other folk I believe like to be in a lower gear and spin away from stop. I try to avoid changing the chainring unless I need to (hills/ headwind are too hard) I find that changing chainrings can upset the ride.
Edit: I hope my ramblings help.

You should get used to using the full range of gears. The inner chainring is there for a reason. The bike has a smooth progression of ratios from low to high, and you should use the most appropriate ratio for the conditions.

One of these days, SRM are going to mate up their cranks with an auto changer system. Then you won't have a choice.

 

[Globalti]

In general you cruise around on the middle ring and use the granny ring for climbing hills and the big ring for blasting along, then use the rear gears with those. However don't cross the chain from extreme to extreme, e.g. from big ring to biggest cog or from granny ring to smallest cog because you might exceed the range of the derailleur and you will be asking the chain to deflect sideways too much, which will wear it and the cogs prematurely.

Time and experience will tell you the best gear for starting off. Learn to change down to an easier gear while slowing for obstacles - you can be braking and going up the cassette while just turning the pedals but not making any effort.

Depending on the ranges of gears you probably have a couple at each end, which overlap. You can check this here: http://home.earthlin...rman/shift.html fill in the boxes then scroll down to see the speeds possible with each gear.

 

[Bigsharn]

Personally I stay in my highest front chainring, switching between the range of 3rd-7th on the rear where appropriate, but as has been said different people prefer to do different things.

 

[jimboalee]

Its pretty pointless telling another cyclist which rings and cogs you use.

You might have a 32/42/57 chainset and a 10 x 21 cassette.
The guy on the recieving end might have a 20/28/38 chainset and a 14 x 34 cassette.

The only thing that can be recommended is 'go to somewhere quiet and play with the gearing'.

 

[Klaus]

Important thing is that your derailleurs are working well and not worn.
Not a problem on new bikes. Mine is secondhand and hadn't been serviced/
adjusted in a long time. Had the LBS replace cassette, chain and adjust and
gear change is now very smooth. Won't repeat all the good advice already
given. Living in a hilly area I stay mainly with the middle font and the full range
of rear cogs as required. Granny ring for really steep hills but then my stamina
lets me done.
General advice is to find your own combination and ranges - difficult to give a general rule.

 

[Globalti]

Important thing is that your derailleurs are working well and not worn.
Not a problem on new bikes. Mine is secondhand and hadn't been serviced/
adjusted in a long time. Had the LBS replace cassette, chain and adjust and
gear change is now very smooth. Won't repeat all the good advice already
given. Living in a hilly area I stay mainly with the middle font and the full range
of rear cogs as required. Granny ring for really steep hills but then my stamina
lets me done.
General advice is to find your own combination and ranges - difficult to give a general rule.

High Wycombe is HILLY, I know. I used to live in Chinnor.

Are you a member of the Hellfire Club?

 

[HLaB]

You should get used to using the full range of gears. The inner chainring is there for a reason. The bike has a smooth progression of ratios from low to high, and you should use the most appropriate ratio for the conditions.

One of these days, SRM are going to mate up their cranks with an auto changer system. Then you won't have a choice.

Probably but I find at the moment I don't need to, I can find the suitable gear with the 10 (9 avoiding the extremes) cogs for the conditions I cycle in but the lower chain ring is a as a backup useful. With the doubles and compacts I find that the step down from 52 to 38 (and 50 to 36) is too much, too often. With my tripples I find I like to do similar, although if the conditions merit it I will swap between the middle and outer chain ring more often (maybe because the are both 8sd). Although it hardly ever happens it also avoids the possibility of the chain jump too. So on the whole I find it more comfortable/ smooth to stay in 1 chain ring and only change when I need to :-)

 

[Klaus]

High Wycombe is HILLY, I know. I used to live in Chinnor.

Are you a member of the Hellfire Club?

Hellfire Club - is this not to do with wild parties and debauchery in the caves, rather than cycling?
Certainly not a member but might be fun joining ????

 

[Globalti]

That's it. I used to love going down those caves in West Wycombe and hearing about Sir Francis Dashwood, wishing I could be acting debauched, deflowering virgins and taking opium. You need to be a politician nowadays to get away with that, the aristocracy can't afford it.

 

[rockyraccoon]

jimboalee, I'll be out in a few days trying out all the combinations as you suggested


Globalti, I ready about that on my researches when trying to fix my bike ! I always try to not cross chain and riding.


Now you said SeanLawrence, I think that would be the best thing to do..


Klaus, I did a lot of research about bikes I have serviced my second-hand MTB in bad condition needing a lot of care. It has new shifters and cables, derailleurs are working very well nice and smoothly, all lubricated and no signs of wear. I am quite proud of myself for this achievements...

Thank you all for your suggestions