narrow-axle front wheel?

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bonj2

Guest
can you still get wheels with an old-style (i.e. thin) axle?

I tried my normal road bike's old front wheel on the fixed conversion's forks and it wouldn't go in as its axle is too fat.
 
Is this this bike you're doing up. What is it a track bike, I must admit I thought an axle was an was an axle and I've had some old bikes.
 

tyred

Squire
Location
Ireland
Nottingham built Raleighs used to use a thinner 5/16" axle I believe. The width of the forks on old Raleighs was also narrower than on a modern bike. If this is the case, you may have to file the slots...
 
OP
OP
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bonj2

Guest
Crackle said:
Is this this bike you're doing up. What is it a track bike, I must admit I thought an axle was an was an axle and I've had some old bikes.

respectively: yes, no (see below), and so did I!

in its current (well, ex) guise, it's an old flat bar commuter. Well i say flat bar, not quite flat, but slightly moustache shaped, steel frame and forks, old 27" wheels, did have a 5 speed block on the back but i'venow got a fixed rear wheel to replace it with, and that fits fine in the rear (horizontal) dropouts.



tyred said:
Nottingham built Raleighs used to use a thinner 5/16" axle I believe. The width of the forks on old Raleighs was also narrower than on a modern bike. If this is the case, you may have to file the slots...

ok that's two people who've said that.
I'm assuming it'll be ok to do being as they are steel...
it is a raleigh so that wouldmake sense.
thanks
 
You'll need a long round (or 'rat-tail') file (smaller diameter than the existing axle obviously) and a flat file. Use the opposite drop out as a guide to keep the flats straight and whilst enlarging the radius try to minimise the removal of material from the apex, you don't want lopsy drop outs. It wont take long if it's a Raleigh.
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
When filing out front fork-ends, take metal from the rear face only. The front faces will remain a datum. It doesn't make a lot of difference, but reduces the fork-rake by 0.25mm or so. - unnoticable really but psychologically pleasing.
Use the plain shank of a bolt as a gauge.
There's no need to touch the apex of the dropout. Just blend in the new line to half way up the radius.
Any missalignment can be touched up when you try the wheel in.
Do it carefully and you can get a 'slap in and happy' wheel position.

Good luck.
 
jimboalee, good tip about filing only one face. Reducing fork off-set will move the wheel away from the steer centre and make the steering (imperceptably admittedly) slower and the front wheel more floppy. Why would this give you pleasure?
 
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