Mudguards

[martint235]

Didn't know whether or not to post this in mechanics or not. Just awaiting the arrival of some full mudguards for the commuter. Any tips on fitting them easily? I did have some for my single speed and I thought "oh it will be easy, just attach all the fixing points and that will be it". Then I found out that it was nowhere new that simple and that angles etc meant the bit in front of the fork could vary wildly depending on what was going on behind the fork. It took me days to fit just the front one. Two days later some t**t t-boned me and totalled the bike.

So now I will be fitting both rear and front mudguards and would like tips from any experienced fitters. Key points are my bike must run silently so no rattles or squeaks or brushing against tyres. And I want dry feet.

Thanks

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Bike specific work stand
Bolt cutters.
A selection of Allen screws/bolts over and above those supplied
Some handy tube to make some spacers (or washers)
Spare bridge - I like the stainless ones
Extra pair of mudguard stay QR jobbies for the rear of bike.
Drill & drill bit.
Leather or plastic mudflaps
Beer

All have to be to hand before I will consider installing full mudguards.

 

[martint235]

Cheers Greg. I think I have a spare bridge from the last time.

On a "no beer" kick at the moment so will skip that step unless things get really horrendous then I may have to reconsider.

 

[MichaelW2]

Rear chainstay bridge is best fitted with a small ziptie. Drill the 'guard about 1.cm from the tip. make sure it is a tight fit between the chainstays. I nibble away a recess with a dremel, knife and sandpaper so it grips the chainstays tight and won't rattle.

Once you have set clearance, cut the mudguard stays to fit the plastic caps, as short as possible. Dremel, pliers and hacksaw, bolt cutters all work. File the end round for safety. Never leave it sharp.

Press the bridge onto the mudguard and when located correctly, compress the tabs with pliers, really tight.

You should be able to pivot the front 'guard any way you like to set its angle/location.

retrieve any usable stays and stay fasterners from your old bike, for spares.
Modern stay fasterners are made of cheese compares to ones from 10 years ago. If you over-torque, they will crack.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Cheers Greg. I think I have a spare bridge from the last time.

On a "no beer" kick at the moment so will skip that step unless things get really horrendous then I may have to reconsider.

I had to go for vodka once. Rather than beer. To sterilise the wound in my face left by a high-velocity mudguard stay embedding itself in my cheek, and shortly thereafter the hole in my leg cause by the end of the cut stay.

Can I add safety goggles to the list. And a file to finish the cut ends with.

On the principal of measure twice cut once I measure everything obsessively, at least twice. But my preference for the bolt cutters over other (safer) methods, is you can then cut the stays with the mudguards in-situ. So much easier than going back to the shop for a new set of stays. Please don't ask why I know this.

 

[vickster]

For easy fitting, take to LBS

 

[Mo1959]

On the principal of measure twice cut once I measure everything obsessively, at least twice. But my preference for the bolt cutters over other (safer) methods, is you can then cut the stays with the mudguards in-situ. So much easier than going back to the shop for a new set of stays. Please don't ask why I know this.

After having fitted a couple of sets, I would definitely agree with this. Get them set up the correct distance from your tyres first, tighten all bolts and recheck and when happy, do your cutting of the stays at the end if they need it.

 

[martint235]

For easy fitting, take to LBS

You have no idea how many times I've considered that!! It just means my bike being off the road for slightly longer than if I do it myself*





*in the unlikely event that I manage to do it properly myself otherwise the time will be: time taken by me swearing at bike; time spent kicking bike; time spent in A&E; time spent waiting for new mudguards to arrive; original planned time for bike to be in LBS.

 

[Milkfloat]

I must be unique - or very lucky with my guard/bike combinations. It has never taken me more than a couple hours to fit a set, although I do go into it each time thinking 30 minutes and this will be done.

 

[vickster]

I don't think an LBS has ever taken longer than an hour to do. Book in, have coffee/beer, hand over cash, done

You have no idea how many times I've considered that!! It just means my bike being off the road for slightly longer than if I do it myself*





*in the unlikely event that I manage to do it properly myself otherwise the time will be: time taken by me swearing at bike; time spent kicking bike; time spent in A&E; time spent waiting for new mudguards to arrive; original planned time for bike to be in LBS.

 

[martint235]

I don't think an LBS has ever taken longer than an hour to do. Book in, have coffee/beer, hand over cash, done

My LBS is very popular. I can pull favours for stuff that's crucial to keep my bike on the road and thereby jump the queue. I'm not sure he'd accept this as one.

 

[BigCoops]

After having fitted a couple of sets, I would definitely agree with this. Get them set up the correct distance from your tyres first, tighten all bolts and recheck and when happy, do your cutting of the stays at the end if they need it.

Just out of interest, in your opinion what is the correct distance from the tyre?

Just changed tyres on my winter bike, guards were set up with about a 5mm gap to the old tyre, with the new tyre the gap is much bigger.

 

[MichaelW2]

5mm is usual but in winter a little extra is fine. I have about 8-10mm and when I fit studded tyres, I don't need to adjust clearance.

 

[John the Monkey]

Take the wheels off.

I've tried fitting around the wheels once, reasoning that it would reduce fitting time as I wouldn't need to refit the wheels to adjust the 'guards.

WRONG.

It just makes everything many times more fiddly.

Personally, I mark the stays with an indelible marker, or a wrap of electrical tape, and then remove them & cut them in a bench vise with a hacksaw. Putting carpet under the bike so that your eyebolts don't go bouncing off should they fall is also a good idea, if your work shop has a hard floor. The washers from threaded V-brake cartridges/pads make good spacers for fork crown mounts/chainstay bridge mounts - I bagged mine from my LBS' bits box.

 

[ianrauk]

Bring the bike and the guards round... let's get it sorted over a beer.