Moving parts onto new frame...

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rainbowarehouse

New Member
Hi,

I've been cycling since before I can remember, but this is the first time I've decided to undertake anything more than tightening brake cables or adjusting gears so I'm posting here for advice.

Basically a couple of years ago, I had a very nice Claud Butler MTB, that had its life cut short when a storm caused a clump of bricks from a chimney to fall down the side of our house onto the bike. Because our insurance was a bit crap, the best we could get was a £250 voucher for Halfords without paying any excess. At the time, I wasn't riding much so I chose a replacement bike and let it sit around like it's predecessor.

Fast forward to now, I have decided to start riding again. The bike I currently have is what I got from Halfords: a Carrera Vulcan Disc Spec. I can't remember what year we got it exactly, but it is red. Exactly like this:

http://images.thebikelist.co.uk/imag...in-bike-08.jpg

There are a few things I don't like about the bike. The first two I have changed. These were the tyres which I have replaced for semi-slick road tyes, and the handlebars (originally too wide, almost 70cm) which I have replaced with some 540mm ones.
Apart from this, the brakes, gears, rims and forks all seem decent enough. Even though they aren't the lightest parts available, the frame is adding the vast majority of the overall weight, as it doesn't feel much lighter with both wheels and tyres taken off. For this reason I want to replace the frame with something lighter.
After a look around online, I found this:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...uctDescription

First I should ask if it will actually be lighter than my current frame? It is made from 7005 alloy, which Wikipedia tells me is a alluminium-zinc-magnesium alloy. I know that each of these metals is considered lightweight, but it might not be as simple as that with regards to a bicycle frame. However, my main question is that of compatibility with the parts on my current bike (the Carrera Vulvan Disc Spec) as if I can reuse them all, I effectively reduce the weight of my bike considerably for only £135.

The only thing I've previously built with components from the ground up is a computer, but as far as fitting components inside a case is concerned, computing is pretty standardised into a single(ish) universal specification.

It would be easy for me to compare size specs of the Scott frame to my Carrera bike, but I cannot find measurements for the Carrera anywhere online. If it makes any difference, I would be getting the x-large Scott frame (6 foot 2 here)

Thank you very much for any help or advice,
Toby
 
If a bike such as your Car**ra weighs in the region of 25 to 30lbs and the frame bit of it weighs between 5 and 8lbs. You aint gonna save much by swapping out the frame. If the frame fits you ok you'd be better off, from a performance point of view, replacing the wheels and any heavy and or steel componentry which they bolted onto it at the factory such as chainrings, bars, forks etc. The key dimension is headtube/steerer length -everything else bar cables will (should) swap straight over.

I rather like the look of the Scott frame pictured, it has some nice design details.
 
No idea about MTB weights TBH being a roadie, but as far as building a bike goes, it's dead easy. Take your time, think about things like cables, and make sure you have the right tools, (sounds obvious I know). YouTube has a host of videos to help with any cycle maintenance issue, or just shout up on here and someone will advise you in a flash.

Good luck with it, but be careful you don't get bitten by the building bug! I have, and the feeling that I made that is pretty intoxicating, and now I want to build bikes nearly as much as ride them :whistle:
 
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rainbowarehouse

New Member
If a bike such as your Car**ra weighs in the region of 25 to 30lbs and the frame bit of it weighs between 5 and 8lbs. You aint gonna save much by swapping out the frame. If the frame fits you ok you'd be better off, from a performance point of view, replacing the wheels and any heavy and or steel componentry which they bolted onto it at the factory such as chainrings, bars, forks etc. The key dimension is headtube/steerer length -everything else bar cables will (should) swap straight over.

I rather like the look of the Scott frame pictured, it has some nice design details.

Indeed, the frame is a nice design, which is part of what attracts me to it. I prefer the more tubular shaping than modern angular designs.

I measured the head tube on my current Carrera and it is 150mm. The head tube of the large size SUB 20 from Scott (a similar frame) is 150mm also, (small is 120mm, medium is 135mm and large is 150mm). However I would be going for the extra large frame size that is available, but isn't listed on the size chart. Do you think the head tube will increase past 150mm on the extra large size frame? Or is 150mm the max size for a head tube?

If the head tube sizes do not match, what kind of cost would I looking at for the parts (on a budget) to make it work?

Thanks again,
Toby
 

Borbus

Active Member
One thing you do have to be careful with when swapping frames is the current length of your steerer tube. With a threadless headset you can always cut the steerer tube down but you can't make it longer. If there are a lot of spacers stacked between the frame and stem on your current bike then you're probably ok, but definitely check to make sure. If the frame is too big for your steerer tube you've got no choice but to buy a new fork.

Other than that replacing the frame isn't too hard. You just need to know everything about building bikes. If you don't know it now, you will by the end, trust me! It's fun!
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
First I should ask if it will actually be lighter than my current frame? It is made from 7005 alloy, which Wikipedia tells me is a alluminium-zinc-magnesium alloy. I know that each of these metals is considered lightweight, but it might not be as simple as that with regards to a bicycle frame. However, my main question is that of compatibility with the parts on my current bike (the Carrera Vulvan Disc Spec) as if I can reuse them all, I effectively reduce the weight of my bike considerably for only £135.

I am unsure why you wish to replace the frame, and by the Scott Sub, it seems to me perhaps you believe it might be the most effective place to save weight.

Imho the Sub is not a particular light frame, so I am unsure how much weight will be saved. But of course you can only be sure if you strip the Carrera and weigh it. CRC lists the Sub's weight at 2.3kg for Large, which you can compare with various hardtail frames here e.g., bearing in mind that most of the heavier frames are steel.

Imho the easy way to improve performance is to follow Mickle's excellent suggestions. The robust way to lighten up a bike however involves listing all the components, itemising the weight of every sourced from either the public domain (such as lists from Weight Weenies) or your own measurements, and see what you can save at what cost by swapping with what is currently available. The most comprehensive source I know that lists currently available components' weights is this French retailer.

Finally, of course the lightest is not necessarily the best in terms of performance.
 
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rainbowarehouse

New Member
I am unsure why you wish to replace the frame, and by the Scott Sub, it seems to me perhaps you believe it might be the most effective place to save weight.


There are several reasons why I'd like to replace my current frame with the Scott Sub. Although as you say, I've only really mentioned that it was for the weight. Really it is a combination of factors.

Size is one, I feel a little cramped on my current frame with a seat pole of 22". I know that 22" should be fine for someone who is 6' 2" but I think it might be my proportions that make me feel like I could use a larger size. The large Scott Sub is 22" so the extra large should be a bit bigger (right?)

I plan on slowly upgrading my bike as time goes on, reducing the weight and increasing the quality of various parts, so it seems logical to start at the frame. Not only because I can replace parts on the frame one by one (without knowing that eventually I'm going to have to take them all off again and swap them to a new frame) but also because of the cost of the frame as it is on sale now. I could be wrong, but £135 (w/ free delivery) for a full size alloy frame is a bit of a bargain isn't it? Similar frames I can find online start at about £300 minimum, and are to my mind, nowhere near as attractive yet simple.

That being said, if you know of any similarly priced alternatives, I would love to have some recommendations.

Cheers,
Toby
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
May I ask is the Carrera frame alloy or steel? What is the forks make/model? What tyres and tubes do you have? Are any components such as handelbars/stem/seatpost steel (easily tested with a magnet)?
 
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