Moving a Fulcrum R5 wheel.

[mr brambles]

I've just fitted these wheels to my bike and I've noticed the wheel and rim runs very close to the non-drive side of the frame, can it be moved across as there is plenty of room on the drive side?

 

[PaulSecteur]

Undo the quick release and give it a jiggle, seems like its seated squarly in the dropouts .

 

[festival]

If your wheel is seated in the drop outs correctly, it could be the frame is out of track.

 

[mr brambles]

The wheel is sitting in the dropouts correctly and the old wheel was sitting nicely. Is there any way I can move the dropouts as there is hardly any room on the drive side

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I've just fitted these wheels to my bike and I've noticed the wheel and rim runs very close to the non-drive side of the frame, can it be moved across as there is plenty of room on the drive side?

If you flip the wheel putting the cassette on the non-drive side, does the rim then sit off-centred towards the drive side by the same amount? If it does then there is clearly something wrong with the wheel, and not the frame, and the rim is not sitting centred between the locknuts. Did you buy wheel new/recently? If so take it back.

If wheel has no warranty then we will have to work out what is wrong with it by deduction. It could have been redished, or it could have spacers missing/swapped e.g. Is the wheel running true otherwise?

For a start measurements that would help then would include:
1) distance between locknuts (measure frame's distance between dropouts and how far is it from that)
2) distance between smallest cog and dropout

 

[Cyclist33]

did yours come with the 11 speed freehub, and if so, did you fit the spacer? looks like youre on ten speed gearing. dunno if it would make a difference but maybe removing the hub spacer would shorten the breadth of the cassette and that might move the wheel back into line?

i would send the wheels back, to be frank.

 

[mr brambles]

If you flip the wheel putting the cassette on the non-drive side, does the rim then sit off-centred towards the drive side by the same amount? If it does then there is clearly something wrong with the wheel, and not the frame, and the rim is not sitting centred between the locknuts. Did you buy wheel new/recently? If so take it back.

I've flipped the wheel round and the cassette side is still off centre by the same amount towards the non drive side. does this mean my frame is bent? and is there anything I can do for a bent frame?

original

flipped


Dropout spacing

 

[fossyant]

Make sure your drop outs are clean, and fit the wheel with the bike the right way up, so that the weight of the frame and you pushing down causes it to fit.

If everything is right, then this does point to a bent frame ! Can you try another wheel from another bike - not the old wheel off this bike though !

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I've flipped the wheel round and the cassette side is still off centre by the same amount towards the non drive side. does this mean my frame is bent? and is there anything I can do for a bent frame?

As any wheel builder knows, if the rim stays in the same plane when the wheel is flipped, the rim is centred between the locknuts.

Perhaps one final check is to flip your old wheel (the rim of which I assume has been reasonably centred in the frame otherwise - should check that too) and see whether the rim becomes off-centred. If it does then we can conclude the old wheel has been specifically spaced or dished to fit a bent frame. If in the unlikely event that it does not then I shall have to think of other possibilities...

If bent frame is the conclusion what material is it made of?

 

[Svendo]

EDIT2: just reread the OP properly and seen it's not about the spacing at the hub but the position of the tyre and rim at the BB end of the chainstays.
(Just looked at my Fulcrum R5 and thats how mine is too. The non-drive side flange is not as far out as it could be, and there is a 'gap' between it and the dropout. This is presumably about having it far out enough to give lateral stiffness but not so far as to have spoke tension too unbalanced; a wheelbuilder type would be able to explain more clearly. The drive side flange is as far out as the cassette will allow.
If the tyre is central between the chainstays just behind the bottom bracket, and again at the brake bridge when the wheel is fitted both ways round, and the gears work fine (when it's the right way round obv.) then I think the frame and wheel must both be true.
EDIT: also just remembered, the dropouts on a road bike are meant to be 130mm apart, which is easy to check.)

 

[gbb]

Are those wheels new Mr Brambles ?
If not, it may be worth checking they've been re-assembled properly if anyone has stripped them for new bearings etc.

The third and fourth photos above make me think...the drive side, the axle is barely visible, the non drive side...there's loads of axle visible..
If you strip them, the spacer either side is of differing length, its easy to mix them when re-assembling and you wouldnt realise till you put the wheels back on the bike.

 

[mr brambles]

EDIT: also just remembered, the dropouts on a road bike are meant to be 130mm apart, which is easy to check.)

I'll measure the dropouts tonight when I get home tonight and try the old wheel in both positions.

The wheels were brand spanking new, but ive ridden 60 miles on them before i noticed the spacing. would it be worthwhile swapping the spacers to see if its any better?

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I'll measure the dropouts tonight when I get home tonight and try the old wheel in both positions.

The wheels were brand spanking new, but ive ridden 60 miles on them before i noticed the spacing. would it be worthwhile swapping the spacers to see if its any better?

If your wheels are so new you would be mad to start taking it apart - if the problem is with the wheel you could void the warranty that you might need to claim, if the problem is not with the wheel then why work on them?

I have not noticed any difference in axle width outward of "locknuts" from the photos, what is present is a large spacer on the non-drive side, but they are extremely common for rear wheels.

 

[gbb]

As the wheels were new, then disregard my above, which co-incidentally was based on vague memory. Now i've had a chance, having just looked at my 5s, i can see the axle distances either side look exactly the same as yours.