more mickle method questions

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I now have a regime where I get 20 - 30 miles in each day after work no matter the conditions, which means in crap weather. For the last week or so I've adopted the mickle method of cleaning the chain as it just seems to make perfect sense ........

however, when I get home its taking me up to 30 mins to end up with a chain that is 'clean'. Is this right?

If I go out in bad weather am I going to have to clean my chain another way?

Ta.
 
30 minutes per day cleaning your chain is excessive - not to mention pointless - what are you doing to it..?
 

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
That's excessive.

I use the Mickle Method on my chains. Almost irrespective of how much I use the bikes the chains get done on my weekly routine maintenance. (The exception is if I can see fine grit on the chain after a lot of water and mud). Chain cleaning takes at most 20 minutes for the 2 bikes. Usually between 10 and 15.

Bog standard SRAM and Shimano 8 speed chains last me abot 2000 miles average to the 0.75% wear stage, cassettes last 3 chains.

The only part of a chain which matters is inside, and the Mickle Method replaces the lubricant in there long before it's gone. Making the outside look better is just an extra.

If the chains look a bit cruddy in between I just wipe tem with the chain cleaning cloth - 20 seconds worth.

I'm not sure why, but I've used the bikes less this year, yet the crud on the cloth when I service the chains seems thicker. Would Mickle like to explain!
 
Mr Mickle, I will reduce the ammount of lube and frequency of cleaning.

Its worth considering, if you are lubing every day, the cost of lubing every day vs the cost of replacing the chain a bit sooner. Especially as the people that tend to be anal about chain cleanliness and lubrication tend to use very expensive lubes.
 
... blah blah blah blah... I've used the bikes less this year, yet the crud on the cloth when I service the chains seems thicker. Would Mickle like to explain!

Evaporation of the lube's more volatile components.

Prossibly.
 
OP
OP
Lien Sdrawde

Lien Sdrawde

Über Member
Another question comes to mind - i'm off to Spain for a few weeks where hopefully it will be drier - can I put dry lube (not wax) on top of wet lube, and do I need to give the chain a good rub before doing so?
Once again, ta for any assistance. :smile:
 

HovR

Über Member
Location
Plymouth
Another question comes to mind - i'm off to Spain for a few weeks where hopefully it will be drier - can I put dry lube (not wax) on top of wet lube, and do I need to give the chain a good rub before doing so?
Once again, ta for any assistance. :smile:

I wouldn't advise putting dry lube on a chain you have previously wet lubed. The reason behind this, is that the lubricant in dry lube is suspended in a solvent, which later evaporates. The solvent from the dry lube, and the oil based lubricant you have been previously using won't mix well.

As Mickle has said, you were probably applying the lubricant excessively. Only a drop on each roller is needed. Apply less lube, and you'll need to wipe less. I lubricate my chain once a week, and generally only have to wipe it once or twice between each weekly lubrication.
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
I mickle but I have been known to de-grease as well......sinner that I am. The cost of the lube is absolutely piffling if you apply it in a less than incontinent fashion. Get a plastic disposable Luer-lock syringe and an 18g hypodermic needle. Use that to drip the stuff onto the rollers. Less than 1ml for a whole chain...about six pence worth of Finish Line Wet lubricant. Never mind the economy of it, cleaning up the colateral is soooooo much easier.
 
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