Mirostone kitchen worktops.
- Thread starter T4tomo
- Start date
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some ramblings from the petrolheads
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=207&t=1531492
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=207&t=1531492
Mugshot
Cracking a solo.
It's not a brand that I'm familiar with but from looking at the website it sounds like basically the same stuff as Minerva and Mistral (two brands I do deal with). Assuming it's basically the same (and I think it is) it's a beautiful product, and looks absolutely stunning when it's fitted. The joints are practically invisible when fitted correctly, it's non porous and hygienic. It can be given different finishes according to how far you want to go for a shine, you can go through all the grades of sandpaper up to a polishing milk and give it a high gloss if you like. It's very repairable, if you were to damage it you could remove the damaged section, drop in a new bit, glue it, sand it, and hey presto it's fixed. It's not without its downsides however.
The joints are glued together, these are then sanded in order to blend them in, but for it to be sandable it has to be scratchable and it will show the scratches, far more so on darker worktops, particularly if you've gone really shiny, but no matter what the finish it's going to scratch. However, it can all be resanded to give yourself that just fitted look again. The problem is that this can become a weekly chore if you let it (maintenance kits are mentioned in the blurb, these are basically a pack of sanding discs). The best option is to leave it, after around 6-8 months it does form it's own patina when basically all the little scratches join up. Don't underestimate how much this stuff scratches though.
Fitters can charge a premium for it. It's true it's fitted with basic wood working tools but what it doesn't tell you is that you may get through a few blades cutting it, and they're not cheap. Also because it's expensive (when compared to laminate) the fitter will likely try to cover this in case he makes a mistake and has to replace things. You may even struggle to get someone to fit it if it's not being done as a complete kitchen refurb. Keep in mind that a granite or quartz quote will include templating and fitting, take this in to account when you're doing your comparisons. Also because you're buying it in lengths you can find you end up with, and have therefore paid for, far more than you need.
I noticed it's 20mm thick, this can sometimes have an impact on hob locations, make sure it wont affect you.
If you go for a pale colour make sure the fitter is surgically clean. I've seen it where pencil lines and dirty finger prints have bled into the joints and the whole lot had to be done again.
It is a nice product and it does look great when it goes in and in the showroom, but don't underestimate the level of maintenance that you may get caught up in, particularly with a dark colour. I'm not a huge fan of these products myself as I can't be arsed with extra work, I don't think they are so much better than laminate that they merit the price difference. Before you take the plunge get a comparison quote, including fitting, against granite or quartz and have a look at this stuff too which is very good and far more reasonably priced.
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subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
Hobs tend to be about 40mm deep. a 38mm standard laminate worktop means routing into the top bars on the unit a 20mm top may mean removal completely which " may" weaken the structure of the cabinet underneath.
I have just done my kitchen and used an Axiom ( by Formica) 40mm Worktop we did indeed buy more than we used due to cuts etc . I still needed to rout out the screwhead position to get it to sit flush.
the Mason Mitre I did looks amazing ...
OP
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T4tomo
Legendary Member
Ah, So I may lose a cutlery drawer so the hob depth can sit somewhere. Not the end of the world
subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
No, you will keep drawer , just end up having to remove some of the top support or all of the top support bar of the unit .
bar 4 in this link . http://www.my-sds.co.uk/Admin/ViewDocument.aspx?ID=8dd3a942-d028-4346-949b-13af1faca8a1&reportID=8
Mugshot
Cracking a solo.
It's possible you will. The hob will have minimum clearances in the fitting instructions, these include below as well as front, back and to the sides. Gas hobs can need bit more clearance below than electric, also, don't underestimate the room required for the gas pipe, they're not as bendy as cable either.
WRT the Zenith if you're going to hit an issue with 20mm you certainly will with 12.5mm, however if you're not going to hit an issue with 20mm you may well not with 12.5mm.
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T4tomo
Legendary Member
Have stuck my head in the cutlery drawer, that all makes sense. Hob positioned centrally above 2 units so the cut out of a bit a carcass does weaken it much due to the 2central edges. All in all I think a decent traditional 38mm is the way forward, probably paired with a contrasting splashback for a bit of pzazz. Any recommendations on brands for worktops or are they much of a muchness. A concrete / mid grey colour is the way I'm heading.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
My sister's Granite looks lovely, but then you find if you put anything on it, it stains it. You can't put a wine glass down, pot or pan. So she has covers over it. You can tell she has no kids. It's just for show. I'll be sticking with anything that is easy clean.
