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Sorry, been busy.
It dawned on me that I never did write about how I banished punctures from my life. Really, considering the subject's importance it's the one I should have written first. So here it is.
Mending punctures. There are too many variables in bikes, gear systems and brakes to give a full set of instructions here but in essence there are three separate skills which must be mastered if you want to be remembered for your ability to mend a puncture;
1. Removing and replacing the wheel.
2. Removing and replacing the tyre and tube.
3. Patching the tube.
Learn these skills separately in easy to digest, bite-sized chunks and you'll have them for life. And you can pass them on to your kids too. Tube patching is fast becoming one of those lost arts like thatching and dry-stone walling.
Skill #1 above is bike specific. There may be nutted axles or quick release levers to deal with and brakes will probably need to be loosened off or otherwise undone to allow the wheel to be removed. Add in chains and gear cables when you graduate to the rear wheel. Learn what quirks your bike has and - if you hope to fix a flat away from home - make sure you carry the spanners or Allen keys your bike needs. There's no point carrying a replacement tube and a pump if you can't remove the wheel.
The difficulty of Skill #2 varies between bikes too. In general, thinner wheels are more difficult to remove tyres from - and to refit.
And #3. Patching a tube at the side of the road should be the last resort - carry a fresh tube so you can do a quick swap-out, and repair the holed tube when you get home. Patch kits go off too. Don't get caught out by a tube of glue which has dried out. Modern 'glueless' patches are available. I can't recommend them because I've never had any luck with them and so gave up on them long ago. Some people swear by them. I swear at them. I prefer the old - gluey - way.
With all of these skills it's worth practicing at home until you are totally familiar with the processes involved. It becomes second nature after a while.
One of the most common errors is forgetting to find the litle bugger which caused the flat. Do your best to locate the splinter, sharp, shard or nail that caused the puncture and remove it. Because if you don't it'll go straight through your new tube too.
Avoiding punctures. Thankfully modern technology is available to save us from the character building indignity of fumbling with a greasy bike at the side of a road, in the dark, in the pouring rain. The first line of defense is the modern puncture 'proof' (resistant) tyre. Nearly every manufacturer makes one to fit your bike. There are no significant performance negatives except initial cost, they are a bit dearer. Under the tread is a tough layer of urethane or Kevlar which prevents foreign bodies penetrating your tyre. Some manufacturers have so much confidence in their tyres that they offer a money back guarantee against punctures. They do roll a tiny bit slower, but you're not racing are you?
For the belt and braces approach, install some tube sealant inside your tubes (or you can purchase tubes with sealant already inside) such as 'Slime' or 'Stan's No Tubes'. Which, if a sharp object does, somehow manage to get through your armoured tyre, fills the hole with tiny fibres, preventing air loss (and preventing the long walk home). Like the platelets in the blood. There is a slight weight penalty, only you can decide if it's a price worth paying. Perfect for a hub-geared city bike, perhaps not for a skinny tyred racer with super light wheels.
I do not get punctures. I will not tolerate them.
It dawned on me that I never did write about how I banished punctures from my life. Really, considering the subject's importance it's the one I should have written first. So here it is.
Mending punctures. There are too many variables in bikes, gear systems and brakes to give a full set of instructions here but in essence there are three separate skills which must be mastered if you want to be remembered for your ability to mend a puncture;
1. Removing and replacing the wheel.
2. Removing and replacing the tyre and tube.
3. Patching the tube.
Learn these skills separately in easy to digest, bite-sized chunks and you'll have them for life. And you can pass them on to your kids too. Tube patching is fast becoming one of those lost arts like thatching and dry-stone walling.
Skill #1 above is bike specific. There may be nutted axles or quick release levers to deal with and brakes will probably need to be loosened off or otherwise undone to allow the wheel to be removed. Add in chains and gear cables when you graduate to the rear wheel. Learn what quirks your bike has and - if you hope to fix a flat away from home - make sure you carry the spanners or Allen keys your bike needs. There's no point carrying a replacement tube and a pump if you can't remove the wheel.
The difficulty of Skill #2 varies between bikes too. In general, thinner wheels are more difficult to remove tyres from - and to refit.
And #3. Patching a tube at the side of the road should be the last resort - carry a fresh tube so you can do a quick swap-out, and repair the holed tube when you get home. Patch kits go off too. Don't get caught out by a tube of glue which has dried out. Modern 'glueless' patches are available. I can't recommend them because I've never had any luck with them and so gave up on them long ago. Some people swear by them. I swear at them. I prefer the old - gluey - way.
With all of these skills it's worth practicing at home until you are totally familiar with the processes involved. It becomes second nature after a while.
One of the most common errors is forgetting to find the litle bugger which caused the flat. Do your best to locate the splinter, sharp, shard or nail that caused the puncture and remove it. Because if you don't it'll go straight through your new tube too.
Avoiding punctures. Thankfully modern technology is available to save us from the character building indignity of fumbling with a greasy bike at the side of a road, in the dark, in the pouring rain. The first line of defense is the modern puncture 'proof' (resistant) tyre. Nearly every manufacturer makes one to fit your bike. There are no significant performance negatives except initial cost, they are a bit dearer. Under the tread is a tough layer of urethane or Kevlar which prevents foreign bodies penetrating your tyre. Some manufacturers have so much confidence in their tyres that they offer a money back guarantee against punctures. They do roll a tiny bit slower, but you're not racing are you?
For the belt and braces approach, install some tube sealant inside your tubes (or you can purchase tubes with sealant already inside) such as 'Slime' or 'Stan's No Tubes'. Which, if a sharp object does, somehow manage to get through your armoured tyre, fills the hole with tiny fibres, preventing air loss (and preventing the long walk home). Like the platelets in the blood. There is a slight weight penalty, only you can decide if it's a price worth paying. Perfect for a hub-geared city bike, perhaps not for a skinny tyred racer with super light wheels.
I do not get punctures. I will not tolerate them.
