media blast and powdercoat

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Location
Llandudno
Not sure what a media blast is, presume like sand blast to take it back to the metal?

My old peugeot cost £20 in white from a place that does larger stuff. You usually have to wait until they are doing other things in the colour you want.

had to use nitromors on the BB threads afterwards though.
 

gbb

Squire
Location
Peterborough
Mine cost £10 to blast clean. I'd already tried with Nitromoors and emery paper...it took bloomin ages and still wouldnt shift the paiing around lugs etc. I wouldnt try to do it myself again...plus i was told the powder coaters were likely to want to do it properly anyway.
£10 well spent.
Dont know how much to powdercoat...mine was done as a favour by a friend in the trade :smile:
 

kyuss

Veteran
Location
Edinburgh
I wish I lived down south. I just got a quote recently and they wanted £70 for the frame and forks and another £30 for stem and cranks.:smile:
 
I'd be interested to know more about powder coating, like why some frames get rampant surface rust which strips the powder coating off in sheets. My uncles (Pashley) Moulton was so far gone it had to be put down. Bad preparation or what?
 
I did a little bit of specification writing for sand, bead or media blasting in the dim distant past for steel work.

The surface rusting can be caused by 2 factors; issues with adherence of the final coating due to poor preparation of the surface or surface rust due to porosity for the final coating.

To get a good bond between the powder coat and the steel surface it needs to be perfectly clean and blasting to SA2½ or preferably SA3 in accordance with Swedish Standard SS 05 59 00 is required.

If cleaned to this level, the coating should be applied immediately and the frame should be handled with clean gloves between blasting and coating to stop grease and oil from your hands getting on the steel and affecting the final coat adhesion.

The other cause of the surface rust is porosity for the final coating if the surface is porous the metal can corrode underneath it. An example of this was chrome bumpers, it wasn’t the chrome that corroded; but, the steel below the chrome, as the chrome allowed mositure through to attack the steel below. High quality chroming coats the underlying metal with copper first and then a layer of chrome to add a moisture barrier between chrome and underlying metal.
 

Dave5N

Über Member
ArDee said:
I did a little bit of specification writing for sand, bead or media blasting in the dim distant past for steel work.

The surface rusting can be caused by 2 factors; issues with adherence of the final coating due to poor preparation of the surface or surface rust due to porosity for the final coating.

To get a good bond between the powder coat and the steel surface it needs to be perfectly clean and blasting to SA2½ or preferably SA3 in accordance with Swedish Standard SS 05 59 00 is required.

If cleaned to this level, the coating should be applied immediately and the frame should be handled with clean gloves between blasting and coating to stop grease and oil from your hands getting on the steel and affecting the final coat adhesion.

The other cause of the surface rust is porosity for the final coating if the surface is porous the metal can corrode underneath it. An example of this was chrome bumpers, it wasn’t the chrome that corroded; but, the steel below the chrome, as the chrome allowed mositure through to attack the steel below. High quality chroming coats the underlying metal with copper first and then a layer of chrome to add a moisture barrier between chrome and underlying metal.


There you are Mickle. More or less what we said. ;):smile::angry::smile:
 
OP
OP
zzpza

zzpza

Well-Known Member
mickle said:
I'd be interested to know more about powder coating, like why some frames get rampant surface rust which strips the powder coating off in sheets. My uncles (Pashley) Moulton was so far gone it had to be put down. Bad preparation or what?

i've done some more research into this. to expand upon the info ArDee posted, there are several different types of powdercoat.

polyester powdercoating seems to be the one to go for. it is specifically for outside use in a harsh environment as it is light (UV) and weather resistant.

epoxy powder coating is for indoor use only, with no UV protection.

epoxy / polyester hybrid powder coating is a half way house between the two.

i'm not sure why epoxy would be used (cost? less hazardous painting environment? better finish? i'm just guessing...)

there are also several anti-rust treatments you can do too. these include zinc primer, phosphate coating and zinc plating.

the different levels of anti-rust protection, the preparation of the work and the type of powder coating could each lead to your bad experience. ;)

i've found a place in my town that does powder coating (as well as the services i mentioned above) so have fired them off an email. i'll see what they come back with. :laugh:
 
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