Mechanical vs Hydraulic Disc Brakes

[MntnMan62]

I've been looking into upgrading both my mountain and road bikes and one component that I've been looking at is disc brakes. I'm certain I want either or both new bikes to have disc brakes but was also looking at the differences between mechanical and hydraulic. My understanding is that generally hydraulics tend to operate somewhat smoother but can be a bit finicky and should you spring leak, you could find youself without brakes. Mechanical brakes may not be as smooth as hydraulics but I've heard they are easier to maintain and if something were to happen to the brakes, you are more likely to lose a little bit of braking power but won't end up with with no brakes at all.

Anyone who knows more about the subject than the little bit that I do care to comment?

Thanks.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

My SRAM Rival system hasn't been touched in nearly 5 years.

Go with hydro

 

[rogerzilla]

Avoid Avid hydraulics or systems that use DOT fluid. Shimano disc brakes have a good reputation for being easy to live with.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

Why?

 

[Jody]

Hydraulic for me also. In the long run they are fairly hassle free but i'd avoid anything too budget.

Why?

The Avid that I got rid of were lethal. I had a couple of scary incidents where they just wouldn't stop and they were a devil to bleed so they had to go. Swapped them out for a set of Shimano SLX and they have been faultless.

 

[JhnBssll]

There are pro's and con's to both mineral oil and DOT brake fluid but both are superior to cable operated calipers in both function and maintenance. A good set of hydraulic disk brakes should need very little attention bar the odd pad change. Of course there are exceptions, and if you have problems with hydraulics you will need a new set of tools and skills to repair them, but they are by no means complex and not something to be afraid of

As for a sudden leak causing brake failure, you're just as likely to snap a cable

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

There are pro's and con's to both mineral oil and DOT brake fluid but both are superior to cable operated calipers in both function and maintenance. A good set of hydraulic disk brakes should need very little attention bar the odd pad change. Of course there are exceptions, and if you have problems with hydraulics you will need a new set of tools and skills to repair them, but they are by no means complex and not something to be afraid of

As for a sudden leak causing brake failure, you're just as likely to snap a cable

Indeed, I've said in another thread today that I haven't looked near a Rival hydro setup in nearly 5 years.. Same pads and same DOT4 fluid, which I should probably change**

**yet that would be fixing something that isn't broken

 

[figbat]

I have 3 bikes with hydraulic brakes, all DOT 4. Aside from pads and an occasional fluid flush, no issues at all. One bike is 13 years old and still stops on a sixpence; original discs, piston seals, master cylinders etc.

 

[I like Skol]

Lost a front brake during a lairy mtb ride due to a damaged/burst hose. Still had a back brake so carried on regardless and the other riders caught me up eventually.....

If you do have problems with hydraulic brakes it is rarely so catastrophic, and even then you still bave the other brake as they are separate systems. Don't be afraid of hydraulic brakes!

 

[keithmac]

My lads got Tektro Hydraulics on his MTB and I've got Shimano on mine, both very good.

The likelyhood of a leak while riding is minuscule.

 

[Venod]

In my opinion Hydraulic are better than mechanical, they take less effort at the levers than mechanical for the same braking results, but I don't have a problem with a good mechanical system, I have two Shimano Hydraulic, one road one MTB both good, one CX, Mechanical, TRP spyres compressionless cables, again good but more effort at the levers required.

I have run Promax, Avid BB5 and BB7 mechanical calipers as well, but the TRP Spyres have been the best.

I have run Giant, Avid and Shimano Hydraulic calipers, no difference in braking performance all stopped well, but the giant was a closed system and on long descents with heavy braking the fluid would heat up and expand putting slight pressure on the pads thus slight braking.

 

[Vantage]

I haven't had a hydraulic brake since the 90's so can't comment on modern ones, but I never had any issues with it.
I've no idea what this 'extra pressure at the lever' stuff with mechanical brakes is. It's no worse than rim brake setups.
No idea what tools and fluid type are needed to top up/replace brake fluid but I do know that I can completely strip and rebuild my mechanical BB7 with little more than my multi tool and a new cable can be had from any bike shop. Doesn't need special brake levers either. And mechanical ones are cheaper too.
I'll also say that there's more than enough power and modulation to bring my fully loaded tourer to a controlled emergency stop on loose surfaces.
The only thing I hated was the having to bed in the pads, but that's probably an issue with hydraulics too.

 

[rogerzilla]

I had a Kona Cinder Cone with Avid Elixir 1 hydraulics. They were the worst bike components I have ever known. They needed bleeding every 3 months as the fluid absorbed water, expanded and had nowhere to go as there was no provision for expansion. This meant the rear brake started to drag. And the bleeding kit cost £40 and I needed a new bottle of DOT 5.1 each time too. The bike was costing £30 a year in fluid alone, ignoring the work required and the "will it work?" question every time I got it out to ride.

Shimano brakes use non-hygroscopic mineral oil and are rather better designed.

 

[carlosfandangus]

Never had a problem with Shimano hydraulics..... Avid that is another story. you can get a full set with hoses and levers, pre filled and bled (MTB) for £60.
The lad across the road comes over every 2/3 days with a problem with his cable discs, It does need a new set of cables..... no he needs hydraulic.
They are not a faff to maintain (hydraulic) all I have ever needed is a bleed when doing a full install, usually shortening the hoses and new pads, apart from that its fit and forget.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

As above, nearly 5 years on my Rival DOT system, never even cracked a bleed screw.

16yrs riding motorbikes and nearly as many driving, also DOT brake systems

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