Maximum weight of rider

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Ken57

New Member
I am hoping that some knowledable person will be able to advise me.

I have owned a Gents 26" wheel Apollo 7200 (Halfords) bicycle for some years. It has been used infrequently so I have decided to pass it on to a friend.

My friend is a 'large' person and tells me that all bicycles have a 'carrying capacity' or maximum weight of rider.

This is something of which I was unaware. I wonder if anyone can tell me the maximum advised weight of rider for my Apollo 7200.

Thanks in advance

Ken
 

steve52

I'm back! Yippeee
all bycycles do not have max weights, some may but i have never heard of them , my grandson rides an old raliegh i gave him all 23 stone and six foot five of him
 

mgarl10024

Über Member
Location
Bristol
The manual for my bike (not the one you have - sorry) - Bike Manual - has some weights in Appendix A.
They would suggest that the upper weight is 300lbs (around 21 stone). I would expect that this could be exceeded, but perhaps you would be voiding the warrenties as not using it as described.

If you can find a manual like this for you bike - great - but I'm not sure you will for an Apollo. In that case, perhaps the 300lb would be a good figure to use?

Hope that helps,

MG
 

Dewi

Veteran
Being on the large size myself I find the wheels are the weak link - the rears tend to need replacing at regualr intervals
 

Chutzpah

Über Member
Location
Somerset, UK
I have a work colleague who is extremely large - couldn't even tell you his weight.

When he saw how much I was enjoying my cycling (and the weight I was losing) he wantonly decided he wanted a bike. Aside from the fact that he kept looking at "Reebok" bikes from Argos etc. (£89.99 specials) I was worried about how the bike (and him) would cope.

He finally got the nerve to ask the question at the LBS (I offered to ask on his behalf but he didn't want to tell me his weight) and they told him he'd have to at the very least strengthen the wheels for him.

Mind you, he's on the extreme end of the scale, I'd say morbidly obese.
 

Cheule

New Member
Location
Coventry
Definitely the wheels are the weak link, you could get a pair of Skyway Tuff II's if they do it in the right size.
 

dellzeqq

pre-talced and mighty
Location
SW2
some frames have limits (one of mine is 91kg), but, without being unkind, the problem is that the Apollo is likely to vary in manufacture. I'd suggest that a large person would be taking a chance. Hit a bump and the forks or headset could go. I don't know how large is large, but if you're talking 20 stone then I wouldn't
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
this is one of these things where it's worth visiting a good LBS and also perusing some of the US forums. I'd be looking for a workorse of a bike to use to shed the weight and then look for something nicer if still smitten by cycling. A good fit is essential as there's that much more weight bearing down on sensitive parts. If you're very heavy, and out of shape, you'll also tire faster and your posture will slump increasing the weight on the contact points. If you're working with an existing bike then just go with it to start with, if the wheels, rear especially, don't hold up then I'd look at sourcing some handbuilts designed for a big rider. If the frame's not up to it then there are stronger frames available off the peg.

My guess, if you're above 250lbs then seek advice, below that you should be ok as long as you're sensible in your choices.
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
Bike wheels are pretty robust things. If you want to, you could tighten the spokes until the eyelets pull through the rim. The hub HANGS from the rim using the spokes laced at the front and rear of the hub.

A std 36 hole alloy wheel should be able to withstand a 13 stone bloke falling off a 5 ft wall onto pavement. The tyre will compress, but the rim and spoke lacing will survive. The weak link in impact riding like trials is the hub bearings. Best to use precision race jobbies like the skateboard crew.

On a unicycle, the entire weight of the rider is held on ONE wheel. Crickey.

As for frames, a heavy chap should be thinking about a heavy gauge something like 531ST touring tubing. Or even a Hi-ten bombproof frame until his weight is down.

A chap over 250lb would probably fold up a Spesh SWorks Aluminium frame.
 

adds21

Rider of bikes
Location
North Somerset
On a unicycle, the entire weight of the rider is held on ONE wheel. Crickey.

That's a good point. I'm about 70kg and my 20" unicycle wheel appears to be holding up (although I think I read the max recommended weight was 60 - I'm just a rebel). I was also riding it when I was nearer 80kg. It's a cheap unicycle too.
 

snailracer

Über Member
That's a good point. I'm about 70kg and my 20" unicycle wheel appears to be holding up (although I think I read the max recommended weight was 60 - I'm just a rebel). I was also riding it when I was nearer 80kg. It's a cheap unicycle too.
Smaller wheels are inherently stronger than larger wheels, one reason why BMX wheels are 20".

I could make a case for a non-folding, single-speed shopper with 20" wheels:
- No gears means less dish (=stronger) on the back wheel
- Step-through frame, so no need to swing the flabby leg over the seat
- Cheap.
 

Bruce

New Member
Location
Leigh on Sea
I am hoping that some knowledable person will be able to advise me.

I have owned a Gents 26" wheel Apollo 7200 (Halfords) bicycle for some years. It has been used infrequently so I have decided to pass it on to a friend.

My friend is a 'large' person and tells me that all bicycles have a 'carrying capacity' or maximum weight of rider.

This is something of which I was unaware. I wonder if anyone can tell me the maximum advised weight of rider for my Apollo 7200.

Thanks in advance

Ken

I'd say your friend is very ungrateful, why should he worry its a gift !
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
Smaller wheels are inherently stronger than larger wheels, one reason why BMX wheels are 20".

I could make a case for a non-folding, single-speed shopper with 20" wheels:
- No gears means less dish (=stronger) on the back wheel
- Step-through frame, so no need to swing the flabby leg over the seat
- Cheap.

Early Raleigh 20s had 28 hole rims front and back. My BSA 20 had a 28 hole rear until I got my hands on an eighties model with a 40 hole rim.

The move to 40 hole was due to 'Passengers'.

You could buy my BSA 20.
3 speed Sturmey
Front dynohub.
40 hole rear wheel.

£150
 
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