Making a market cart.

[Jameshow]

I have been asked would our men's shed make a small baker cart.

I agreed as I have two 26" MTB tyres which would suit it.

Question I have is how to reliably and cheaply mount the wheels cantilevered to the side of the cart which will have 4x2 timber chassis and sculpted handles out the back?

Could a machinist machine some stub axles abs what size?

 

[numbnuts]

To be honest they are not worth making, less than £100 on ebay with out all the hassle
Had mine now for two years and still going strong.

 

[PapaZita]

If your hubs have cup and cone bearings then I think you probably just need some appropriately threaded rod onto which the bearing parts could be assembled. Be aware that front and rear wheels may use different threads, e.g. 9mm for a front QR, and 10mm for a rear. Try and see if a locknut from your hubs will fit an M10 bolt that you might already have lying around. You can get 10mm threaded rod from a DIY shop to play around with and test things out, but i wouldn’t expect much from it in terms of strength. 9mm would be harder to find, but a machinist should be able to easily create either thread in good quality steel, once you’ve worked out what you need.

If existing axles are solid then your threads might be different. See: https://www.diymountainbike.com/bike-axle-thread-sizes/

 

[Jameshow]

To be honest they are not worth making, less than £100 on ebay with out all the hassle
Had mine now for two years and still going strong.

Really?!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16610275...tixoXeJTeO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
£800 buy it now.

However its as much about the process as it us the product.

 

[dicko]

If your hubs have cup and cone bearings then I think you probably just need some appropriately threaded rod onto which the bearing parts could be assembled. Be aware that front and rear wheels may use different threads, e.g. 9mm for a front QR, and 10mm for a rear. Try and see if a locknut from your hubs will fit an M10 bolt that you might already have lying around. You can get 10mm threaded rod from a DIY shop to play around with and test things out, but i wouldn’t expect much from it in terms of strength. 9mm would be harder to find, but a machinist should be able to easily create either thread in good quality steel, once you’ve worked out what you need.

If existing axles are solid then your threads might be different. See: https://www.diymountainbike.com/bike-axle-thread-sizes/

I was a centre lathe turner, turning your axle and screw threading it would be an easy job.

 

[presta]

I think you probably just need some appropriately threaded rod

Really? Just plain old mild steel studding?

I'd be looking for some pukka stub axles, and a specification for their rated load, or else just build a chassis that supports both ends of ordinary axles:

 

[ClichéGuevara]

6" nails driven into the wood worked for us on bogeys as kids. I don't think that's quite what you had in mind though.

 

[PapaZita]

Really? Just plain old mild steel studding?

Well, yes, just to test out the concept. 😁 I was thinking that the finished part might be made from a nice piece of cro-mo or something. I’m imagining this all being fairly light duty and absolutely not for carrying humans. There are good reasons why real stub axles and their corresponding hubs are designed differently, but the OP seemed keen to use some existing wheels, so the axle diameter is what it is.

I agree entirely that a different design that supports both ends of the axles should be considered.

 

[T4tomo]

6" nails driven into the wood worked for us on bogeys as kids. I don't think that's quite what you had in mind though.

We used old fashion pram axles held onto a piece of 4x2 with fence wire staples!! Equally reliable.

 

[dicko]

Well, yes, just to test out the concept. 😁 I was thinking that the finished part might be made from a nice piece of cro-mo or something. I’m imagining this all being fairly light duty and absolutely not for carrying humans. There are good reasons why real stub axles and their corresponding hubs are designed differently, but the OP seemed keen to use some existing wheels, so the axle diameter is what it is.

I agree entirely that a different design that supports both ends of the axles should be considered.

EN8 engineering steel, also know as 080M40, is an unalloyed medium carbon steel. EN8 is a medium strength steel with good tensile strength.
Easy to turn and screw thread you should have no problems.

 

[Jameshow]

I'm going to talk to the miniature steam railway guys on Sunday to see if then can machine say some 15mm steel down to axle size one end.

 

[classic33]

I'm going to talk to the miniature steam railway guys on Sunday to see if then can machine say some 15mm steel down to axle size one end.

Take one of the axles you'll be replacing. They should be able to match the thread up from that

 

[wafter]

How much load is it going to have to take? Personally I'd not want to be loading 9/10mm axles in a cantilever stylee..