After a gap of almost 10 years I recently bought a new bike (Scott Scale 35) and have got back into off roading. I thought I should have a go at routine maintenence and adjustment myself and wondered if you have any recommendations for a good online 'repair manual'? Modern discs and forks are a mystery to me, the rest will be OK AFAIK.
Maintenence of Disc brakes and Sus forks.
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RecordAceFromNew
Swinging Member
- Location
- West London
Thanks for the links, but It was after consulting the manufacturers tech manuals that I made this post! It's fascinating to read a detailed account of how to replace a lower leg seal, and every other component, but I was hoping for something that might indicate why I should be doing it in the first place, and how often. These manuals show you how to dismantle and reassamble everything without any explanation as to why you might be doing it. Is there nothing like my car maintenence manual that people here use, something that says "every so many hours or miles check for play in the thingy and if it needs adjusting, this is how you do it......."?
02GF74
Über Member
it is mostly commons sense, for example if you see traces of oil on the stanchions then that means the seals are not sealing, either dismanlting the forks to clean them or replacing them if that fails is the solution and you then follow instructions in the manuals, no different really to problem with CV joint on your car.
to make matter complicated, manufacturers give a number of hours before suspension forks need to be overhauled but I think most of us on here just ride the forks until a problem develops, IMO it is a ruse by the makers to squeeze money out of you.
to make matter complicated, manufacturers give a number of hours before suspension forks need to be overhauled but I think most of us on here just ride the forks until a problem develops, IMO it is a ruse by the makers to squeeze money out of you.
That's a good tip, and the sort of thing I've never seen in any manual! It's the disc brakes that I'm most unfamiliar with though, and wonder if I should perform routine maintenence or just run until there's some problem?
kevin_cambs_uk
Guru
- Location
- Near Cambridge
I learned the hard way on my disc brake maintenance.
The rear one kept clicking and it was so annoying that I took it off the rear to have a look.
I removed the rear pads forgetting about the little e ring that clips on the brake pads - mistake number one ! never to be seen again ....
I then caught the brake lever which made the things that push the brake pads onto the rim come out and I could not get them back in - mistake number 2
So I took the brake off the mounting on the frame, and ruined all the little screws on it - mistake number 3
i could still not prise a tool in the gap where the brake pads went to force the plunging things back into position, so I took the brake caliper apart it just never occurrred to me that the brake fluid would piss out all over the floor - mistake number 4
So after a complete calamity of events I was with out a rear brake but it no longer made the annoting sound.
So I bought myself some new pads, the pin and e ring that keeps them in and the Avid Bleed Kit. So I cleaned it up, and followed the excellent instructions in the bleed kit and after a few hours on a Sunday it was all back to normal. Very satisfying as getting the bike to the LBS when you commute every day is impossible.
Its a shame that on the MTB I can now do the bottom bracket and brakes, and everything else, but the forks are something I don't think I will touch !
The rear one kept clicking and it was so annoying that I took it off the rear to have a look.
I removed the rear pads forgetting about the little e ring that clips on the brake pads - mistake number one ! never to be seen again ....
I then caught the brake lever which made the things that push the brake pads onto the rim come out and I could not get them back in - mistake number 2
So I took the brake off the mounting on the frame, and ruined all the little screws on it - mistake number 3
i could still not prise a tool in the gap where the brake pads went to force the plunging things back into position, so I took the brake caliper apart it just never occurrred to me that the brake fluid would piss out all over the floor - mistake number 4
So after a complete calamity of events I was with out a rear brake but it no longer made the annoting sound.
So I bought myself some new pads, the pin and e ring that keeps them in and the Avid Bleed Kit. So I cleaned it up, and followed the excellent instructions in the bleed kit and after a few hours on a Sunday it was all back to normal. Very satisfying as getting the bike to the LBS when you commute every day is impossible.
Its a shame that on the MTB I can now do the bottom bracket and brakes, and everything else, but the forks are something I don't think I will touch !
I learned the hard way on my disc brake maintenance.
The rear one kept clicking and it was so annoying that I took it off the rear to have a look.
I removed the rear pads forgetting about the little e ring that clips on the brake pads - mistake number one ! never to be seen again ....
I then caught the brake lever which made the things that push the brake pads onto the rim come out and I could not get them back in - mistake number 2
So I took the brake off the mounting on the frame, and ruined all the little screws on it - mistake number 3
i could still not prise a tool in the gap where the brake pads went to force the plunging things back into position, so I took the brake caliper apart it just never occurrred to me that the brake fluid would piss out all over the floor - mistake number 4
So after a complete calamity of events I was with out a rear brake but it no longer made the annoting sound.
So I bought myself some new pads, the pin and e ring that keeps them in and the Avid Bleed Kit. So I cleaned it up, and followed the excellent instructions in the bleed kit and after a few hours on a Sunday it was all back to normal. Very satisfying as getting the bike to the LBS when you commute every day is impossible.
Its a shame that on the MTB I can now do the bottom bracket and brakes, and everything else, but the forks are something I don't think I will touch !
Excellent! It's a really good way to learn actually, but I was hoping to avoid this technique in future!
subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
i read the service manual for my rock shxs and was dismayed to read that every week i would have to strip and service it ( 24 hrs riding) . that was nearly 2 years ago and countless hours and it still works perfectly fine. when it stops working i will buy the service kit and have a go. if it doesn't work then i will have to get a new fork but i will have had a go and thats the important bit
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
Missed this one whiskywheels.
Have your shocks serviced annually, or whenever they start leaking or wheezing.
Disc brakes are fit and forget, except for checking on pad wear. Many people think that because the lever's gone a bit soft they need bleeding, but 99 times out of 100 it'll just be worn pads. Learn to refit the pads, (takes about 10 mins an end including a good clean) and learn not to pump the lever with the pads out!
Learn to centre them and you're laughing. They're less of a faff than rimbrakes IMHO.
Have your shocks serviced annually, or whenever they start leaking or wheezing.
Disc brakes are fit and forget, except for checking on pad wear. Many people think that because the lever's gone a bit soft they need bleeding, but 99 times out of 100 it'll just be worn pads. Learn to refit the pads, (takes about 10 mins an end including a good clean) and learn not to pump the lever with the pads out!
Learn to centre them and you're laughing. They're less of a faff than rimbrakes IMHO.
Ah, thanks for that! Sounds straightforward and sensible to me. I think I'll learn about the pads, as it's very hilly round here and I like fast descents and the violent braking that often goes with it. They sold me a can of Disc Brake Cleaner when I got the bike, and you're supposed to spray it all over the rotor and pads, but I'm dubious as to what use that would be.
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
If it's straightforward brake cleaner then it's an alcohol solvent and degreaser. If it's the "hydrating" type designed to stop squeaks, throw it away,as it'll reduce your braking power by about 75%.
Use it as described when you change the pads. I tend to take the pads out and soak the inside of the caliper with the spray cleaner, then use a thin toothbrush to dislodge as much muck as possible. This stops a build up of brake dust or whatever around the pistons and keep it all free. Then I push the pistons back into the caliper with a plastic tyre lever before fitting the new pads.
You can use it to clean pad surfaces if they have become contaminated but this is limited in its effect. If they are really oily bin and replace.
As part of my cleaning schedule, once the bike is dry and lubed I'll clean the braking surfaces of the rotor with the spray to make sure they are free of any oil or detergent/wax etc.
You can spray the stuff straight onto pads and wipe off with a clean cloth.
Use it as described when you change the pads. I tend to take the pads out and soak the inside of the caliper with the spray cleaner, then use a thin toothbrush to dislodge as much muck as possible. This stops a build up of brake dust or whatever around the pistons and keep it all free. Then I push the pistons back into the caliper with a plastic tyre lever before fitting the new pads.
You can use it to clean pad surfaces if they have become contaminated but this is limited in its effect. If they are really oily bin and replace.
As part of my cleaning schedule, once the bike is dry and lubed I'll clean the braking surfaces of the rotor with the spray to make sure they are free of any oil or detergent/wax etc.
You can spray the stuff straight onto pads and wipe off with a clean cloth.
