Lube

[Kingwill]

Hi

Sorry but another Noob question.

Wet or dry lube - I've been told that dry lube is recommended on a road bike if you frequency clean and lube the chain.

My question is what does frequently mean in real, defined terms, i.e. miles, time etc.

Also how does dry lube stand up if you're out on a ride and get a downpour. Does it wash of easily and you're left with a dry chain or is it just a matter of cleaning and relubing once you get home?

 

[Garz]

Dry lube will be fine if your regimental after every ride in this weather. However the amount of salt and crud on the roads currently will erode pretty quick if you neglect any of the drivetrain. I found in the summer the dry lube is great but the majority of the year I will apply my finish line XC wet lube.

 

[Moodyman]

Another vote for Finish Line XC - Green bottle. On all my bikes, year round.

 

[Banjo]

I use dry lube in summer because the dust doesnt stick to it. In winter unless you clean and relube everytime you will get surface rust on your chain a nd cassette within hours .

In winter I have taken to using car engine oil. I am sure it is as good as anything especially as you need to clean and relube quite regullarilly anyway. First did this when i had run out of wet lube but was impressed with the result.

 

[enas]

Chain-L: take the time to apply that properly (as per the instructions), and forget about it. You'll get a fantastically smoothly running drivetrain for all of winter, no matter how much rain falls (and I live in Ireland). And it stays pretty clean too (just wipe the chain after a dirty ride).

 

[Paul_Smith SRCC]

I work in a shop full of different lubricants and the one I chose to use personaly is 'Prolink', many claim to have a focus on specific conditions, best for dry/summer or wet/winter etc, where as this lube seems good in all conditions, not tacky, doesn’t wash off too easily and the chain feels clean and free running, the latter to me more noticeable than any other lube I have ever used; although personally I don’t use it as a cleaner.

I use GT85 to clean, then wipe all that off and apply Prolink, with both I spray the chain with a rag below and around the chain to catch overspray, after a complete revolution I wrap the rag with the overspray around the chain to clean and work in the GT85, then wrap a clean section of rag to clean and dry, before repeating the same with Prolink. The little 4oz bottles have an RRP of £6.50, Click for ‘dealer locator’ here

Paul_Smith
www.corridori.co.uk

 

[canamrider]

+1 for Prolink Gold. In my experience, it's at least as good as anything else out and that saves me a lot of time trying to find something better. If you use the Prolink Luber, you'll be surprised how long a bottle lasts even on chains run in the winter. Used exclusively on our stable of 10 bikes!

 

[Kingwill]

Thanks for the reponses.

I've more of an idea about all this now and I'll try out a few of the suggestions over the winter/summer.

 

[mickle]

I use GT85 to clean, then wipe all that off and apply Prolink, with both I spray the chain with a rag below and around the chain to catch overspray, after a complete revolution I wrap the rag with the overspray around the chain to clean and work in the GT85, then wrap a clean section of rag to clean and dry,

How do you get the GT40 out of the chain ?

 

[enas]

How do you get the GT40 out of the chain ?

I wouldn't be sure GT85 can really clean much of the chain, in particular what's inside. It might look nice, but I'm not sure much of the grit is removed from within the links. The best way in my opinion is to use a solvent such as White Spirit, either with a chain cleaner, or (as I do) by removing the chain altogether (think SRAM Powerlink), put it in a bottle with the solvent, shake it well and let it soak for a while, then rinse off with clean solvent, repeating until it stays clear (or almost).

Let it dry in a well ventilated room for a few hours to be sure any trace of solvent will have evaporated from inside the links, before applying any new lube. Having removed the chain also allows to properly apply the new lube, by carefully and sparingly putting a drop on each link, and letting it penetrate the link by capillarity. Leaving overnight and wiping away the excess the morning after is not a bad idea either.

That might look tedious, but done properly, you shouldn't have to do that frequently at all.

 

[mickle]

Oh bugger.

 

[Paul_Smith SRCC]

I wouldn't be sure GT85 can really clean much of the chain, in particular what's inside. It might look nice, but I'm not sure much of the grit is removed from within the links. The best way in my opinion is to use a solvent such as White Spirit, either with a chain cleaner, or (as I do) by removing the chain altogether (think SRAM Powerlink), put it in a bottle with the solvent, shake it well and let it soak for a while, then rinse off with clean solvent, repeating until it stays clear (or almost).

Let it dry in a well ventilated room for a few hours to be sure any trace of solvent will have evaporated from inside the links, before applying any new lube. Having removed the chain also allows to properly apply the new lube, by carefully and sparingly putting a drop on each link, and letting it penetrate the link by capillarity. Leaving overnight and wiping away the excess the morning after is not a bad idea either.

That might look tedious, but done properly, you shouldn't have to do that frequently at all.

I work on the ‘prevention is better than the cure theory’ so am inclined to clean my chain before it gets too dirty, dry or clogged, as such GT85 is sufficient to wash out what has been quite a small build up, wiping the residue with a soft clean rag leaves it clean enough to apply the ProLink Lube. That’s not to say I clean it after every ride, my commute bike perhaps once a week, maybe more if wet weather and less if not, essentially if it looks like it’s getting dirty and clogged I clean it as above.

For those who need a more thorough clean, off road bikes especially, then there are a few good chain chain cleaning kits that are very good, not only do they use more aggressive cleaners but the brushes are more thorough than my rag.

Paul_Smith
www.corridori.co.uk

 

[mickle]

Get real, chain cleaning kits suck ass.

http://www.cyclorama.net/blog/advice/51/

 

[Moodyman]

I agree with Mickle.

If you must scrub your chain, an old toothbrush or dishwashing brush works wonders.

 

[fossyant]

I agree with Mickle.

If you must scrub your chain, an old toothbrush or dishwashing brush works wonders.

Dry - no WD etc.

For me it's Finish Line Pro Road Ceramic - use it on the fixed and road and MTB.

The MTB sometimes get's the Wax Lube but that's in ice/snow or very dry and gritty terrain - but needs re-applying very often.