Lock Ring Removal Tool...help please!

[BlackSwan83]

Hi All,

So ive managed to get the tool needed to get to this part of the job but now found myself at this point with no real knolidge on what this tool is i will need (the one i purchased turned out to be a casset remover doe shamano, however i did need that tool anyway so wasnt so bad)

Here is a photo of the part i need to get into (with all the theeth) could some kind people point me in the direction on where or what it is i need to get.

http://postimg.org/image/fzjupw98n/

Many thanks

Sam

 

[Dave Davenport]

Hi All,

So ive managed to get the tool needed to get to this part of the job but now found myself at this point with no real knolidge on what this tool is i will need (the one i purchased turned out to be a casset remover doe shamano, however i did need that tool anyway so wasnt so bad)

Here is a photo of the part i need to get into (with all the theeth) could some kind people point me in the direction on where or what it is i need to get.

http://postimg.org/image/fzjupw98n/

Many thanks

Sam

That's the bottom bracket, don't forget the left hand side is a left hand thread.

 

[BlackSwan83]

Thank you. I was wondering what tool i need to be able to take the toothed part out.

Many thanks

Sam

 

[RhythMick]

What job are you actually trying to do? The title indicates you're trying to remove the lock ring (which holds the cassette onto the rear wheel freehub).

 

[BlackSwan83]

Sorry.
Im trying to take apart the bottom bracket to get inside where the ballbearings are. I just dont know what the tool is that fits into these teeth so i can gain access.

Sam

 

[RhythMick]

Park Tools have an excellent series of instruction pages and videos covering many aspects of bike maintenance. I have found that and YouTube to be invaluable.

 

[Summerking]

you'll nee one of these, a 20 tooth Bottom Bracket tool. if you can thread a long bolt right through the tool AND the crank you will be able to tighten the above tool sufficiently that it doesn't slip, sometimes it can take tremendous force to undo if the BB has been there a while.

 

[BlackSwan83]

Thanks for the feedback. I have tracked a couple down on amazon.
One looks like the above and the other has a square hole (would the one without fit also)?

Here they are:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cyclo-Brack...6&sr=8-1&keywords=bottom+bracket+removal+tool
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-B...6&sr=8-5&keywords=bottom+bracket+removal+tool

and the one with the square slot:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Super-Botto...8&sr=8-2&keywords=bottom+bracket+removal+tool

What do you think would be the best one for the job?

Sam

 

[Summerking]

this is the tool I bought, so long as it is 20 tooth you should be ok

this shows the long bolt padded with old inner tube that goes right through the crank, that I used to stop the tool from slipping 'credit to Sheldon Brown' and his excellent Bicycle maintenance website for this idea, if you use this idea remember to loosen it every turn or two as the BB coming undone will get too tight to turn otherwise

 

[Dave Davenport]

Your bottom bracket isn't the type you can service.

 

[BlackSwan83]

How is it not serviceable ??

 

[Dave Davenport]

How is it not serviceable ??

It's a sealed unit, not the old type with cups and loose bearings. It's a standard square taper axle, you just need to replace it with the same axle length.
i.e; http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-bb-un55-bottom-bracket-british-thread/

 

[BlackSwan83]

Ahhh ok im with you. So once i take the next part off this will just slide out and can be replaced with the one you sent me on the link ?

 

[Davidc]

I've only done it once but putting a new sealed BB unit in is easy once you've got the old one out. Force is needed!

As above you need the same axle length, once in there's not much to do other than tighten it and put the cranks and chainwheels back on.

 

[andrew_s]

As stated, BBs can be very difficult to undo, and you may well need something to stop the tool popping off the splines.
If it's an Ocatlink BB, a long bolt like Summerking's will work.
If it's a square taper, the hole in the axle won't be big enough, so try a QR skewer.
A Pedros BB socket holder can be used if the axle isn't hollow
There are some BB tools that screw into the end of the axle - I've got a VAR

The last BB I had trouble with took somewhere like 300-330 Nm of torque to get out - i.e. standing on the end of a 32mm ring spanner and bouncing.
That was to get the "locking" out of the left side. It brought the whole BB cartridge out with it leaving the "fixed cup" behind in the right side of the BB shell