Lifting handlebars help please

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Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
My bike has a headstock that doesn`t adjust upwards see here http://www.pbase.com/davechilvers/image/120166408

I ordered a set of cheap bar ends with an L shape but to be honest I don`t really want to change the position of all the bits on the existing bars to make room.

I think I`ve seen somewhere some sort of extension that will go directly on the tube that comes out of the head (like the existing fitting and then just rise up a few inches where I can then just clamp my stem back on)
I think there is enough free play on the cables for a couple of inches lift which will probably be enough to take the weight from my hands.

Any ideas or pointers?

Thanks

Dave
 
OP
OP
Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
I think my headstock is maybe known as threadless? there is a large star type washer down inside the tube that looks like it has been drifted into positision.
So, I imagine any sort of extender would basically be like a tube that is wider at the bottom ( to go over the exisitng riser) and then tapered down to fit the original stem.
 

jig-sore

Formerly the anorak
Location
Rugby
easiest way to sort it is to get one of these...

stem003-1.jpg
 

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MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
a little cut and paste of a post I made on CTC:-

Following various discussions, here and elsewhere, I thought I'd post up some info and links to piccies that may be of help to others. This is the link to my flikr photostreams:-

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37729119@N08/sets/

So, I was unhappy with flats, bar ends didn't do it for me so I went with butterfly bars with the open section nearest the rider and the controls on that flat part. This was comfy and provided plenty of hand positions but gave poor access to the controls. I found I liked to ride on the sides, or corners, and this meant bringing hands backwards for braking or gear changes. If you think about it the controls are ahead of the hands on almost any other bar setup(I know bar end shifters and downtube shifters). Being of the, mistaken, belief that you couldn't get controls round the bends on butterfly bars I tried drops. Didn't work for me at all, an elbow problem meant that I found it very hard to get a comfy setup and the ride was too jarring. Funnily enough the only comfortable hand position on drops was actually in the drops. Next I tried North Road with a big sweep back, great for getting controls on the sides but only gave one decent hand position. So I tried inboard bar ends as well, which helped a bit. The North Roads were very good but made a big difference to reach. As they were narrower, and swept back, the main hand position was 10cm nearer to the saddle. As I already had a 130mm stem it just wasn't proving easy to dial in. I then ordered the Titec version of the Jeff Jones H-Bar, basically a flat riser bar with angled lengths welded on each side, think the letter H with angled sides. These are good and will be going on my Karate Monkey build but have limited option for mounting controls and are no good for twist shifters. Jeff Jones does a model that addresses this, the Loop Bar, but at $550 each I gave them a miss. For the KM/Titec bar build I've sourced a set of Deore MTB STI shifter/levers, which will mount at the base of the forward extension, thus allowing shifting and braking from either side position. While this was going on I also upgraded the weekend bike to dual control units to reduce to just the one clamp area on the North Roads. This left me with a set of levers, shifters and 2 sets of butterfly bars kicking around. I started tinkering and found that I could get the clamp to travel all the way round the bars with no difficulty(just shows you shouldn't always believe everything you read).

This led to further experimentation, the dimensions on the butterflies, these are BBB Multibars from Dotbike, are:-
side to side - 570mm, front to back at deepest - 160mm, gap at open section - 165mm, clamp to open section - 70mm, clamp to closed section - 90mm and rise/drop is 30mm in either direction. I use a combo of BBB 40cm tubular foam grips and ergo style rubber grips on them. They are a 25.4mm clamp section and the bar diameter is standard MTB 22.2mm.

On the Surly with the hub gear twist shifter I've mounted the bars rising up with the open section furthest away. The brakes, twist shifter and ergo grips are mounted here, the rest of the bar has the tubular grips. Towards the centre I've mounted a pair of Titec L bend bar ends which give me a couple of extra hand positions, including one really stretched out and quite aero. I took some pics of this tonight and they're at the end of the Surly photoset.

On the Giant the bars are mounted with the open section nearest and the bars dropping rather than rising. Again I've used the same style of bar ends mounted inboard followed by the dual control brake and shifter pods. This allows me to access the brakes comfortably from the sides/corners, front flats and the hand position at the base of the bar ends. I can change gear from all three but the sides/corners is the most natural. Again pics at the end of the Giant photoset.

On both setups I've also used the tubular grips on the bar ends, the position of these won't be finalised until I've fully dialled in the bars. But they're very easy to move so will just keep tinkering until happy. Because of the orientation of the bars on the Giant I'll need to use a shorter stem to get them correct. Each bike has 54-55cm nose of saddle to top/side centre of the stem/steerer clamp. Measuring nose of saddle to far corner hand position I currently have 680mm for Giant and 620mm for Surly. I only switched it all round tonight so tweaking and new stem for Giant awaited. I'm guessing that about the 630-640mm mark for this measurement will be the end result.

The only other consideration is around the rearward flat hand position, this will be handy for those sit up and beg moments. It'll be nice if pootling in company to be sat up chatting but I'm concerned about lack of braking ability from there. So I've looked at a set of brake levers from Pauls

http://www.paulcomp.com/crosslever.html

I was thinking about buying a pair of these and mounting one on each bike with a Problem solvers 2:1 cable doubler. These levers have an open clamp design and can be used for long or short pull brakes. The cable doubler would allow me to operate the front brakes from two levers. It may be I'm 'over engineering' things here but would hate to be the cause of mayhem in a group because I was riding well away from a brake lever.

I hope all this may be of use to others, or at least stop them making some of the costly errors I have
icon_biggrin.gif


The follow up:-

Little update, took the Surly for a run today and, despite various tweaks en route, the open section of the bars forward isn't going to work, nor is having them rising. It wrecks the main side position for my hands as the bars flare out, as opposed to in, at the side in this orientation. So the Surly has now converted to the same setup as the Giant, but I've had to accept that the twist shifter will remain mounted on the open flat section, now at the rear of the bars.

I have a new stem to try out to reduce the reach a bit. If anyone has any old riser stems kicking about, 1" bar clamp and 1 1/8 stem clamp I'd be interested. Looking for around 30-40 degree rise and 80-105mm length.
 

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Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
youngoldbloke said:
Is this tyhe sort of thing you were thinking of Old timer? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Heads-Up-Et-1...sure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item5637d6d78e
ps - you need to know whether your Aheadset is 1" or 1+1/8"

young old bloke

So if I`m reading the images correct. Does your existing allen bolt stay in place or do they give you a new extended bolt?

Looking at the images again it looks like the pressure is kept on by tightening the large nurled plastic/ali knob at the top(after you lift the locking tab)

I`m not totally clear from the photos! I`ll have another look after dinner. did you look at the image of my handlebars?

Dave
 
OP
OP
Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
the anorak said:
easiest way to sort it is to get one of these...

stem003-1.jpg
This also looks interesting, is there a limit to the amount of rotation? at the 50 degree marker? if so I`m not sure I would get much more height than I`m getting. If it will revolve more than the 50 mark then that might just give enough lift. Are they available on line?
 

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Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
MacB said:
a little cut and paste of a post I made on CTC:-

Following various discussions, here and elsewhere, I thought I'd post up some info and links to piccies that may be of help to others. This is the link to my flikr photostreams:-

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37729119@N08/sets/

So, I was unhappy with flats, bar ends didn't do it for me so I went with butterfly bars with the open section nearest the rider and the controls on that flat part. This was comfy and provided plenty of hand positions but gave poor access to the controls. I found I liked to ride on the sides, or corners, and this meant bringing hands backwards for braking or gear changes. If you think about it the controls are ahead of the hands on almost any other bar setup(I know bar end shifters and downtube shifters). Being of the, mistaken, belief that you couldn't get controls round the bends on butterfly bars I tried drops. Didn't work for me at all, an elbow problem meant that I found it very hard to get a comfy setup and the ride was too jarring. Funnily enough the only comfortable hand position on drops was actually in the drops. Next I tried North Road with a big sweep back, great for getting controls on the sides but only gave one decent hand position. So I tried inboard bar ends as well, which helped a bit. The North Roads were very good but made a big difference to reach. As they were narrower, and swept back, the main hand position was 10cm nearer to the saddle. As I already had a 130mm stem it just wasn't proving easy to dial in. I then ordered the Titec version of the Jeff Jones H-Bar, basically a flat riser bar with angled lengths welded on each side, think the letter H with angled sides. These are good and will be going on my Karate Monkey build but have limited option for mounting controls and are no good for twist shifters. Jeff Jones does a model that addresses this, the Loop Bar, but at $550 each I gave them a miss. For the KM/Titec bar build I've sourced a set of Deore MTB STI shifter/levers, which will mount at the base of the forward extension, thus allowing shifting and braking from either side position. While this was going on I also upgraded the weekend bike to dual control units to reduce to just the one clamp area on the North Roads. This left me with a set of levers, shifters and 2 sets of butterfly bars kicking around. I started tinkering and found that I could get the clamp to travel all the way round the bars with no difficulty(just shows you shouldn't always believe everything you read).

This led to further experimentation, the dimensions on the butterflies, these are BBB Multibars from Dotbike, are:-
side to side - 570mm, front to back at deepest - 160mm, gap at open section - 165mm, clamp to open section - 70mm, clamp to closed section - 90mm and rise/drop is 30mm in either direction. I use a combo of BBB 40cm tubular foam grips and ergo style rubber grips on them. They are a 25.4mm clamp section and the bar diameter is standard MTB 22.2mm.

On the Surly with the hub gear twist shifter I've mounted the bars rising up with the open section furthest away. The brakes, twist shifter and ergo grips are mounted here, the rest of the bar has the tubular grips. Towards the centre I've mounted a pair of Titec L bend bar ends which give me a couple of extra hand positions, including one really stretched out and quite aero. I took some pics of this tonight and they're at the end of the Surly photoset.

On the Giant the bars are mounted with the open section nearest and the bars dropping rather than rising. Again I've used the same style of bar ends mounted inboard followed by the dual control brake and shifter pods. This allows me to access the brakes comfortably from the sides/corners, front flats and the hand position at the base of the bar ends. I can change gear from all three but the sides/corners is the most natural. Again pics at the end of the Giant photoset.

On both setups I've also used the tubular grips on the bar ends, the position of these won't be finalised until I've fully dialled in the bars. But they're very easy to move so will just keep tinkering until happy. Because of the orientation of the bars on the Giant I'll need to use a shorter stem to get them correct. Each bike has 54-55cm nose of saddle to top/side centre of the stem/steerer clamp. Measuring nose of saddle to far corner hand position I currently have 680mm for Giant and 620mm for Surly. I only switched it all round tonight so tweaking and new stem for Giant awaited. I'm guessing that about the 630-640mm mark for this measurement will be the end result.

The only other consideration is around the rearward flat hand position, this will be handy for those sit up and beg moments. It'll be nice if pootling in company to be sat up chatting but I'm concerned about lack of braking ability from there. So I've looked at a set of brake levers from Pauls

http://www.paulcomp.com/crosslever.html

I was thinking about buying a pair of these and mounting one on each bike with a Problem solvers 2:1 cable doubler. These levers have an open clamp design and can be used for long or short pull brakes. The cable doubler would allow me to operate the front brakes from two levers. It may be I'm 'over engineering' things here but would hate to be the cause of mayhem in a group because I was riding well away from a brake lever.

I hope all this may be of use to others, or at least stop them making some of the costly errors I have
icon_biggrin.gif


The follow up:-

Little update, took the Surly for a run today and, despite various tweaks en route, the open section of the bars forward isn't going to work, nor is having them rising. It wrecks the main side position for my hands as the bars flare out, as opposed to in, at the side in this orientation. So the Surly has now converted to the same setup as the Giant, but I've had to accept that the twist shifter will remain mounted on the open flat section, now at the rear of the bars.

I have a new stem to try out to reduce the reach a bit. If anyone has any old riser stems kicking about, 1" bar clamp and 1 1/8 stem clamp I'd be interested. Looking for around 30-40 degree rise and 80-105mm length.

Mac

I`d have to be wide awake to digest everything you have written but it sounds like you are "Mr Handlebars" I can grasp some of what you are saying. I did order a pair of cheap Titec L type bar ends that haven`t arrived yet so will probably start to gather a few items like yourself:ohmy:

Thanks
 

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Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
Not 45 Degrees but 20 degrees

Right, took my stem/head apart.

Riser coming up through frame is 1 1/8" OS (that seems normal) handle bars are around 22mm OS.

An adjustable stem would give me from 20degrees (what it is at present) up to 50 degrees which when you start to measure properly would give me somewhere around 1 1/2" rise and just slightly backwards towards the rider. I don`t think this would be enough!

So! looking at the extender seems a better and with the aid of removing the washers/ shims you have a bit of adjustment.

So! it looks to me like if you remove the existing central allen bolt and chrome cap washer, then undo and remove the stem (making sure that the front wheel is on the ground (or the forks could drop out??} now you fit the new extender and tighten the allen bolt that clamps the new extender to the riser tube/top of forks. This holds down tight onto the original shims and thus becomes a thrust washer that preloads the bearing. Now in the ads that show the extenders they say you can use your existing central allen bolt but I can`t see how you can because the washer laps over the top of your exisitng stem clamp and wouldn`t allow an extender to slip over it?
Am I missing something? Is the centre allen bolt only there to cover the hole and hold the forks on when you are adjusting the thrust pressure because the double allen bolted clamp on the bottom of your stem is clamping onto the riser tube and thus preventing the forks from falling out? I suppose that the central bolt + the allen clamps are like belt and braces?
So, if you fit an extender that clamps onto the riser tube isn`t that in it`self enough? without the central allen bolt?

I removed my central allen bolt and as long as I left the double allen bolted clamp at the bottom of the stem done up the forks and bearings were solid as a rock.

Sorry but I`ve only ever come across the old type head set up where you tighten up similar to a raw bolt that pulls a cone up the tube. I now read that becasue of ali frames that old way might not be a good idea as the ali tubes might distort.

Thanks for your help.

Dave
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
OT, my understanding on the new Ahead style steerer and stem combos:-

the headset is threadless now so the steerer column of the forks just slots through
the bit inside in known as a 'star fangled nut' this is what the stem cap fits to
slot the forks in, add spacers and stem, in whatever combination you want to the required stack height, ie the height of the steerer tube, the combination should come just over the top of the fork steerer tube, but don't tighten stem bolts yet
next tighten the top cap and align the stem with forks and wheel, then tighten up fully, this pulls the forks up and removes any slack
next tighten up the stem bolts, on the sides, this is what actually holds it all in place
once I've done this I would loosen the top cap bolt off half a turn, it doesn't really do anything now and could be left off altogether.

If available angled stems don't get bars up high enough or near enough then you can fit the ahead stem raiser, this just extends the steerer tube. Unless someone has very strange requirements this always seems to be as a result of a frame being too small or the steerer tube having been cut too short in the first place. Sheldon Browns site shows some good info on this sort of thing, as usual. Another option worth considering are different style handlebars. For example a North Road style where the sides sweep well back of normal style bars. The bars themselves also have a rise in them so, without any changes to the stem, you're bringing the hand position up and back. I only used them flipped, so bars were lowered rather than raised, but the swept too far back for me to get setup properly. Hence my return to the butterfly bars. It does mean that I have two sets of North Roads going. I paid about £25 each for them, if you ever feel like an experiment I'd offer a set at £15 posted.

Switching bars and controls is very easy the only thing to watch for is the lengths of your cables. But a bike shop should be able to sort that for under £20 if need be.
 
OP
OP
Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
MacB said:
OT, my understanding on the new Ahead style steerer and stem combos:-

the headset is threadless now so the steerer column of the forks just slots through
the bit inside in known as a 'star fangled nut' this is what the stem cap fits to
slot the forks in, add spacers and stem, in whatever combination you want to the required stack height, ie the height of the steerer tube, the combination should come just over the top of the fork steerer tube, but don't tighten stem bolts yet
next tighten the top cap and align the stem with forks and wheel, then tighten up fully, this pulls the forks up and removes any slack
next tighten up the stem bolts, on the sides, this is what actually holds it all in place
once I've done this I would loosen the top cap bolt off half a turn, it doesn't really do anything now and could be left off altogether.

If available angled stems don't get bars up high enough or near enough then you can fit the ahead stem raiser, this just extends the steerer tube. Unless someone has very strange requirements this always seems to be as a result of a frame being too small or the steerer tube having been cut too short in the first place. Sheldon Browns site shows some good info on this sort of thing, as usual. Another option worth considering are different style handlebars. For example a North Road style where the sides sweep well back of normal style bars. The bars themselves also have a rise in them so, without any changes to the stem, you're bringing the hand position up and back. I only used them flipped, so bars were lowered rather than raised, but the swept too far back for me to get setup properly. Hence my return to the butterfly bars. It does mean that I have two sets of North Roads going. I paid about £25 each for them, if you ever feel like an experiment I'd offer a set at £15 posted.

Switching bars and controls is very easy the only thing to watch for is the lengths of your cables. But a bike shop should be able to sort that for under £20 if need be.


Mac

I`ve ordered an extender from ParkerBolton. Not being able to see inside the fitting on the web I`m not sure how I would use the original allen botl down into the star spangled but they say you can so I`ll wait till it arrives and all should become apparent. The thing probably comes apart with it`s own built in washer ready for your bolt.

So! in a way, after looking at my set up I was right in as much as the centre bolt is really only to hold all in place as you adjust and it`s the stem clamp bolts that actually hold the bearing together and everything in place.
I`m an engineer by trade and I`m really enjoying getting to grips with things on my bikes and am finding that there is a lot more to modern bikes than meets the eye (if you want perfection that is) and I`m a bit like you " if there is a way of making things better then I want it"

Thanks for the offer of the bars, I`ll let you know. I did look at various bars and even have some bar ends on route but when you hold your hands out in front of you (cycling fashion) it can be difficult to imagine how comfortable differing angles might be till you get things on your bike and move around to your normal position. I`m the same with my car seat, after many years of agro when someone moves the adjustment I`ve now marked the positons of all the adjustments and taken measurements from certain places to my pedals so that I can put things back as they were in a couple of minutes.
Why is it that when you take a car into a garage for an MOT the first thing the guy that drives it 25 yds does is to move your seat and your mirrors. I got so fed up with it when I ran a business and used to have my cars picked up for service that I drilled and fixed all the adjustments i could so that the buggers couldn`t move them:laugh:

Having problems with comfort on a bike I now realise can be more down to choosing the correct size frame so that when you have your seat at the right height for your correct leg stretch the handle bars should be a better fit providing you get the correct frame. My Evans (that was made up for me 20 years ago) is perfect, nice saddle height, nice bar height and good stretch position.

I`ll let you know how it goes. I`m up near Holt in norfolk BTW.

Thanks for your time
Dave
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
"Having problems with comfort on a bike I now realise can be more down to choosing the correct size frame so that when you have your seat at the right height for your correct leg stretch the handle bars should be a better fit providing you get the correct frame. My Evans (that was made up for me 20 years ago) is perfect, nice saddle height, nice bar height and good stretch position."

Might be a clue to your problem there ..... Did you try the bike for fit before you bought it - this is your new electric bike I assume? Maybe you need a larger frame. Might be worth getting in touch with the suppliers to see if they would exchange. Seems you are having to spend a lot of (maybe unnecessary) time and money trying to get right.
 
OP
OP
Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
youngoldbloke said:
"Having problems with comfort on a bike I now realise can be more down to choosing the correct size frame so that when you have your seat at the right height for your correct leg stretch the handle bars should be a better fit providing you get the correct frame. My Evans (that was made up for me 20 years ago) is perfect, nice saddle height, nice bar height and good stretch position."

Might be a clue to your problem there ..... Did you try the bike for fit before you bought it - this is your new electric bike I assume? Maybe you need a larger frame. Might be worth getting in touch with the suppliers to see if they would exchange. Seems you are having to spend a lot of (maybe unnecessary) time and money trying to get right.

Didn`t get any chance of sizes, like most electric bikes around they seem to come average. I suppose the more expensive ones might offer frame size(£1500-2000) although I can`t say I`ve seen any offers on size.
To be honest a lot of the numbness might just be me out of fitness. I can get the power on ok, don`t get any back pain.

As I say it might just be me, I do get pins and needles in bed sometimes if i lay on my back for too long. the docs just say it`s years of heavy lifting, I think they call it a "senior moment":laugh:

I`ll give the extender a go when it arrives. I don`t cycle far, just enough to keep my hand in (5-10 miles) but any added comfort will be good.

Thanks for the link BTW.

Dave
 
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