Lever brake modulation

[Andywinds]

Is there a recommended brake lever distance that should be aimed for when setting up the brake pad distance? Or this just personal preference?

 

[Nibor]

I always do it by personal feel. What suit one person may not suit another

 

[Dogtrousers]

I just set it up so the brake pad is just rubbing, then back off the barrel adjuster a bit. So as close as poss to the rim without rubbing. However, bear in mind that I am a clueless idiot, so this is probably very bad practice.

 

[Andywinds]

I just set it up so the brake pad is just rubbing, then back off the barrel adjuster a bit. So as close as poss to the rim without rubbing. However, bear in mind that I am a clueless idiot, so this is probably very bad practice.

This is how I am currently setup, thanks. I appreciate that this is how you want them to feel, just wondered if there was a starting point.

 

[Levo-Lon]

I have mine set to about half way through the stroke..so i have more leverage so more power as my grip gets nearer to a fist..my personal preference.
if that makes sense..

 

[Andywinds]

I have mine set to about half way through the stroke..so i have more leverage so more power as my grip gets nearer to a fist..my personal preference.
if that makes sense..

Yep that makes a lot of sense. I'm going to fit the lights and see how it feel tonight.

 

[lpretro1]

Think it is always best to leave enough play so you don't immediately lock the brake up and skid but you stop quick if need be - not good to have brakes so tight there is no leverage - everyone has their own preferences on brake feel

 

[Smokin Joe]

I like the rear so it lightly touches the rim when the lever is about 1cm from the bars. It's only a "Steady the ship" brake and it allows the wheel to flex without knocking the brake blocks.

 

[astrocan]

There's a lot of personal preference and intended use (road or trail) plus the technical limitation of the trueness of the rim.
If I am fitting a new cable or blocks I set each block up so that it makes correct contact with the rim, then wind out the adjuster barrel to at least half way.
Pull the cable through the clamp until the blocks are touching the rim and tighten the clamp.
I can then screw in the adjuster until the blocks rest at the postion I want.
I find this helpful for when I only have two hands or my third hand tool can't be maneuvered into a workable position.

 

[Andywinds]

There's a lot of personal preference and intended use (road or trail) plus the technical limitation of the trueness of the rim.
If I am fitting a new cable or blocks I set each block up so that it makes correct contact with the rim, then wind out the adjuster barrel to at least half way.
Pull the cable through the clamp until the blocks are touching the rim and tighten the clamp.
I can then screw in the adjuster until the blocks rest at the postion I want.
I find this helpful for when I only have two hands or my third hand tool can't be maneuvered into a workable position.

That sounds like a good method, I will give that a go.