figbat
Slippery scientist
- Location
- South Oxfordshire, UK
Prelude - 12 May 2023 - 48 days until departure
I start writing this story some weeks before actually attempting the ride. I am a regular cyclist, mostly MTB, some gravel, a little road but generally I do rides in the region of 15-25 miles at a time, around 3 times a week. My biggest annual total is around 2,200 miles and my longest ride to date is 100 miles on road, and 66 off-road. I consider myself moderately fit and healthy, 51 years old with a fleet of 9 bicycles of various types. I have never done a multiple day ride and never done a cycling tour. However, ever since learning about the King Alfred's Way I have wanted to have a go at it, largely because it runs right past where I live.
I ride regularly with a group of like-minded, like-aged people from the village I live in. Once a week we do a ~20 mile MTB ride which ends at our local pub (having sometimes visited one or more other people's locals en route) where we stay until closing time (sometimes after) putting the world to rights. During these beer-fuelled 'recovery' sessions the KAW came up and a few of us expressed interest in doing it. As is the way the expression of interest was vague and unplanned, until one day when it suddenly started getting serious. One of our number took it upon themselves to organise it all and after one false start (the organiser set up a date that he himself couldn't make!) we had a date and an outline plan - King Alfred's Way in 4 days, starting from our village - who's in?
Four of us signed up and since then we have talked, messaged and WhatsApped about little else. Whilst one person was in charge of the planning, we all put our thoughts and suggestions in - how to divide the miles into the days, accommodation options and so on. As I write this, we have rooms booked in three locations, all pretty much bang on the route. June 29th is departure day.
The conversation now is about which bike to take, tyres, luggage, food and nutrition and a common theme of "come on lads, we have to take this seriously". One of our wider group has done the KAW - in two days - and is acting as an advisor. When we ride together normally it's all a bit informal - we chase each other up hills and compete for Strava segment times, there's a healthy dose of machismo and ego. We can't ride like that for the KAW - we have to learn how to ride efficiently and pace ourselves. We have to accept we may be off and pushing sometimes, we may be winching up a climb on the biggest cog at less-than-walking-pace, we can't be eating and drinking what we like and we may actually have to do some "training".
At times I look at the numbers and think it's beyond me. Day 1 for example, at around 70 miles, will be the longest off-road ride of my life so far... and then I have to do 3 more days after that. But then I look at people who have done it - our mate in 2 days, a recent report from someone who did it on a road bike (by the way, I was hugely impressed by this report, and let the rider know via Facebook - it was a real reality check for me), and others that make me think - if they can do it, I can.
So right now I am slowly amassing various items of luggage, I am reading about nutrition and recovery and hydration, I am planning my feeding strategy and I am also taking on longer rides where I am working out how to pace myself rather than go all-out. I think I have chosen the bike I'll do it on - a carbon-fibre full-sus MTB; not the typical KAW bike but my favourite to ride and the one I go to for taking segment times. The other option is an older carbon-fibre hardtail which I considered putting a rigid carbon fork on to make a lightweight, flat-barred, gravel flyer but the comfort of the full suspension is a compelling lure. My gravel bike is not in the running - too old, too heavy, too uncomfortable for such a long ride. I didn't even consider the road bike!
I have bought a couple of small frame bags to fill in the limited gaps available on my full-sus. I am awaiting delivery of a used tail pack bought on eBay and I am mulling a small-ish bar bag. I have a detailed packing list which I think will go in this luggage. I also recently replaced my venerable Kriega hydration backpack (Hydro 3) with a newer version (Tour 9) with more storage (aside: I love Kriega kit - the old pack has done 15 years of service and is still sound; it's costly but worth it). The bike is, as far as I can tell, in good form. The chain is still good, the tyres are quite new (tubeless), the bottom bracket is sound, all pivots and linkages are good, the shock and fork seem OK but I'll take a closer look. I will take a spare mech hanger, brake pads and chain link, plus appropriate tools. Also a tube and repair kit. Possibly a gear cable inner, although then I'll need something to cut it with. I am looking at everything with new eyes now... eyes that weigh every item and a brain that questions its need.
Right now though the main question is this - what will the weather be like? The weather will make a huge impact on the effort required and the enjoyment derived as well as practical issues like taking dirty bikes into hotel rooms or dealing with sunstroke. Mid-summer could be a heatwave or a monsoon. Or anything in between. I guess whatever it becomes, it will be part of the shared story that we will all be telling afterwards. Ad nauseum.
13 May - 47 days until departure
The tail pack arrived. Described as “used once” it’s in new condition, even as far as the original packaging. Very pleased with that. I’ve also ordered a small handlebar bag as Altura had them on a massive, irresistible discount and I thought I could do with the extra stash space.
I have, however, come down with a cold so training is on hold. I comfort myself by test-fitting the luggage and mentally packing everything.
21 May - 39 days until departure
Test ride! I ordered a smallish handlebar bag (Altura Gravel Bag) to complete my luggage setup and then set about fitting and testing it all. I then decided on a dress rehearsal, so fitted all the luggage and filled it with 4 days' stuff and took it for a 42 mile ride along the Ridgeway. The bar bag needed a bit of faffing to fit in a stable way that accommodated the cabling/hosing but once sorted it was fine. Everything else went on easily enough and I just about managed to squeeze in my proposed packing list of items, although after the ride will now review that.
It was a great ride though, on a number of counts:
My chosen destination was the Three Trees Farm Shop Café at Chiseldon, which sits right on the Ridgeway (although at this point the Ridgeway is part of the local road network). I enjoyed a lovely (but not inexpensive) refuelling stop there before setting off for the return leg home.
One factor I had failed to anticipate (rather naïvely!) was the number of other trail users that would be about. My bell probably got the hardest workout of the trip!
With that ride done I feel more positive about taking on the KAW and my chances of completion. There are still plenty of things that could come up - illness, injury, mechanicals and poor weather but fingers crossed for a good ride!
3 June - 26 days until departure
Another full dress rehearsal, this time with two of the group who will be riding together. Today was about doing more distance, retesting luggage and also riding at a pace to suit the whole group. I am likely the weakest link of the group so we need to work out how to stay together without pushing me too hard but letting the others ride at a comfortable pace.
Once again we did an out-and-back along the Ridgeway (it's our only local source of appropriate terrain and happens to be part of the KAW route). We settled at a decent endurance pace - I was occasionally dropped on longer climbs but that was as much about me pacing myself as it was about my ability to go faster. I had to keep reminding myself that I have to ride not only for today, but for tomorrow and the days after that too. As it happens the day after this ride I was taking on a local charity MTB ride of around 29 miles/2000 ft, so had the opportunity to do back-to-back days' riding to see how I felt.
We got along as a group, no frayed tempers (something we're expecting might happen during the KAW ride), a good pace and only one puncture (quickly repaired with a tubeless worm). 58 miles and 4,000 ft makes this ride similar to days 2, 3 and 4 of our trip - we all made it and I managed the next day's ride OK too. I have suffered a little saddle soreness so am going to be testing alternative saddles, padded shorts and chamois cremes. Starting to feel quite real now.
10 June - 19 days until departure
Day 1 route reconnaissance. I decided to set out along our planned day 1 route to explore it further, especially the supposedly tricky navigation through Reading. I went out half the way and then rode back, effectively covering the whole day 1 distance and making this my new off-road PB in terms of distance.
It was a hot day but worth the effort. Despite having a Wahoo ELEMNT Bolt with the track loaded and despite having some local knowledge of Reading having lived there for a few years, it was still tricky and I made a couple of wrong turns. However, having now worked it out, this should make it easier on Day 1 proper. I'll admit it did feel weird riding a mountain bike through The Oracle shopping centre, and despite my local knowledge, I had never ridden various bits of Reading so saw a lot of new stuff. Once clear of the town though it gets back to rural quiet as it heads into Hampshire. I got as far as Bramshill before a quick snack stop and the return leg.
The terrain is pretty flat and there's a fair proportion of paved paths and roads involved, so our plan of extending day 1 to get miles covered seems sound
28 June – 1 day until departure
I am still conflicted about this ride. I am immensely looking forward to it and also dreading it. I have packed the luggage and fitted it to the bike. I have tried to think of all eventualities but also tried to leave out as much as possible. I have gone over the bike with a fine-tooth comb but fear the unexpected mechanical failure. I have also resigned myself to the fact that there’s not a lot I can do about it now.
Training has, if I’m honest, been ‘tapering’ perhaps a bit too much and too long! I sort of ran out of enthusiasm for it but have forced myself to get out and get the miles in. I have been ‘carb loading’ too, with the excuse that the 4 days away will shed any excess that I may have accumulated.
The weather looks like it could go either way. The forecast is for high teens/low twenties with the possibility of occasional rain. There is also the threat of a strengthening westerly wind – good for days 1 and 4, not for days 2 and 3! The training rides have been during the May/June heatwave so hopefully conditions on the day will make it easier. One issue I have faced in training is sweat management – I sweat profusely and have tried a number of headband options to try and soak it up, but these all saturate eventually and drip into my eyes. A bit cooler weather should help here.
Banter amongst the group has gone a bit quiet – we have a pre-departure meeting tonight (ie a pint in the local) to discuss last minute details and then 08:00 tomorrow morning we’re off. I have the concurrent feeling that I am well-prepared but have forgotten something. As I said at the start, I’ve never done a multi-day ride before so have likely over-packed and under-estimated the challenge. It can’t be that hard, can it…?
06:00 29 June – 2 hours to departure
As is the way when I have a trip planned, I have a restless night and am awake early. I have been awake two or three times in the early hours and each time I wake I hear the same thing. Rain.
Whilst this was always a possibility, I hadn’t really planned for it. It is still warm so I’d rather not ride in a rain coat and the bike has no mudguards on it. I know my luggage is waterproof so I have no worries about stuff getting wet, just the bike and me getting plastered. The bike is packed and I don’t want to have to add anything or repack to adjust clothing. The forecast says it’ll stop but then lately the forecast appears to have been more fiction than fact. I get up, have some breakfast and grab a front mudguard – at least that’s easy to fit and will keep some of the dirt away from me and the bike.
08:00 29 June – departure time!
We meet at our local village hall car park and compare notes on clothing and kit. By now the rain has stopped although the ground is pretty wet. We plot the best route out of the village to avoid the inevitable wet grass, not wanting to get wet feet early on. My wife swings by on the school run to see us and we’re off! Today’s target is 69 miles, through Reading and out to the Berkshire/Hampshire borders, past Farnham, around Frensham Ponds and up to the Devil’s Punchbowl Hotel in Hindhead.
The weather soon warms and dries and we’re all glad we didn’t relent and over-dress. One puncture about 10 miles in is quickly fixed with a tubeless ‘worm’ which turns out to be the only issue of the day. Navigation through Reading is a breeze thanks to my earlier recce ride, and being a Thursday morning it is much quieter. Once south of Reading we’re following singletrack and country roads although there’s nowhere to stop for replenishment for a while. Just as we’re thinking about hunting a place down we happen across a pub in the middle of nowhere – The Barley Mow in Winchfield Hurst… and what a well-timed and welcome sight that was!
After some food and a pint we were refreshed and off again. After scaling the Ridgeway early on, this middle part of the route is largely flat and a mix of tracks and country roads and the miles come quickly. Soon enough though the terrain changes and we feel like we are really somewhere new – after chalky tracks overgrown with nettles we now come through heathland and battle through gorse.
Then we’re into pine forestry and a stretch of energy-sapping sand. Finally, as we home in on our destination for the night we come across a tricky climb – steep, narrow and strewn with storm-washed boulders and stones. It’s all I can do to top it out but I’m stubborn and I know we're nearly there, so I grind it out. The last mile or so overlooks The Devil’s Punchbowl until we reach the outskirts of Hindhead and our haven for the night.
The hotel allows us to store our bikes in their function room so long as they are clean, so we hose them down in the car park, let them dry and then wheel them in. The rooms are basic but comfortable enough but we opt to eat elsewhere, making a 20 minute walk into town (actually into the bordering town of Grayshott) for a fantastic Indian meal at The Bay Leaf. We walk back to the hotel for a quick nightcap and in bed by 10pm. All very sensible.
Day 1 summary
69 miles/111 km
3,711 ft/1,131 m
11.1 mph/17.9 km/h
4,194 kCal/17,548 kJ
30 June – day 2, Hindhead to Winchester
The days starts after another restless night and early wake-up. We take breakfast, repack the bikes and hit the road. The route starts quite urban but soon leads to some great trails through parks and forests. We know that day 2 is ‘the big one’ – not in distance but in climbing; there’s one infamous climb and several others to get over along the South Downs Way. We wend our way out through forest and glade until we hit the South Downs Way. One of our group has ridden this before and in the run-up to the ride had described how undulating it was – more so than anything we ride in our home patch.
At first it seems OK – well-defined, quite a lot of loose gravel and, as promised, quite up-and-down as it drops to cross rivers and streams then climbs out of the valleys again. One of our group picks up a puncture and has to change tubes but that was the last one of the trip. There’s a lovely section through the Queen Elizabeth Country Park which includes a stiff, loose climb but so far, so good.
Then we exit the park, cross a road and there it is – Butser Hill. There’s no missing it – there’s a sign welcoming you to Butser Hill and the view is filled with Butser Hill. It is obvious that the middle part is very steep and pre-ride research reveals that pretty much everybody is off and pushing up here. Let’s get this done.
Yes, I did get off and push just for the very steepest middle part but I believe on an unloaded bike I might have a shot at getting up it. As we’re climbing the hill a light drizzle starts to fall and by the time we summit we are knackered. We spy a strange, conical roof structure nearby and go to investigate. It turns out to be a fantastic food and drink hut – it couldn’t have been better timed, with us being exhausted from the climb and getting cold and damp from the light rain.
The rest of day 2 was a mix of trail and back road. There was a rather memorable descent along a washed-out, rock-strewn gulley with a couple of drop-offs along the way. By now I was more confident with how the luggage and bike handled the terrain so I went at it and had some fun. The ride finally enters the outskirts of Winchester and becomes increasingly urban until we come across the statue of the man himself.
The Travelodge hotel is nearby where we have an anxious wait due to a slight miscommunication in booking details, but we're soon wheeling our bikes into the lifts to take them to our rooms. These rooms are pretty basic and not roomy – it was snug!
Unbeknown to us, Winchester is hosting its annual Hat Fair, making the place quite lively. We enjoy an unexpectedly late night out that night and crawl into bed after 1am. Not especially sensible.
Day 2 summary
50 miles/80 km
4,291 ft/1,308 m
10.0 mph/16.1 km/h
3,069 kCal/12,841 kJ
1 July – day 3, Winchester to Market Lavington
Since we're staying in a Travelodge there is no breakfast option, so last night we had cast about for ideas. At first we considered the Wetherspoons where we had had dinner but during the evening festivities we had talked to some locals who recommended Josies, so we go there. It's a great recommendation and we get stuck in. There are a couple of jaded members amongst our group – I had taken it easy the night before so am tired but not hung over. This poor preparation is felt throughout the day though as we grind out the miles across Salisbury Plain. A brief stop at Old Sarum castle for an ice cream helps lift energy and mood levels though.
Lunch today is a more informal affair, taken on public benches outside the Co-op in Amesbury. After that we head for Stonehenge, through Larkhill and into the stiffening westerly wind that has developed. Our route takes along the edges of the firing ranges and we're lucky that we don’t have to detour, but do skirt a closed range for some miles. The open plains after that are purgatory – straight into the wind on grassy, chalky ruts means it isn’t a lot of fun and the remaining distance seems to tick down awfully slowly. Finally we drop off of the Wessex Ridgeway (a descent that yields 42 mph) into the village of Market Lavington, to our stop at The Green Dragon.
This is the pick of the stopovers for us – nice, sizeable rooms and a convivial atmosphere as we happen to be staying on the 2nd anniversary of the landlady’s tenancy so we enjoy the BBQ and live music that is put on. Early to bed though – much more sensible than last night.
Day 3 summary
52 miles/84 km
3,907 ft/1,191 m
10.4 mph/16.7 km/h
3,258 kCal/13,631 kJ
2 July – Day 4, Market Lavington to home
After the best night’s sleep of the tour it’s time for another full breakfast (well recommended!) and our final day in the saddle. Today is a bit different because as the day goes on we will be more and more familiar with the route until we’ll be riding on our own turf again. For most of the riding so far the navigation has been my responsibility – I built each day’s route and shared with the group before we left. Me and one other have been riding with GPS units on the bars – his a Garmin, mine a Wahoo and so far we have largely done OK. Later today though I will become redundant.
The day starts badly for me though. We pack up the bikes in the pub car park and depart – it’s warm and sunny and the first task of the day is to climb back up Lavington Hill to the Wessex Ridgeway. We had mulled other routes to avoid this big climb but in the end decided to just get on and do it. We winch our way up the hill and eventually top out; it was a tough climb but not as bad as we had feared and now that it was over we could get some progress done. About 2 minutes after topping out I realise something. I’m not wearing my backpack. It’s in the pub car park. At the bottom of the hill. I let the others know what I have done and their sympathy is overwhelming: “we’ll wait here whilst you go and get it” and “I would offer to come with you to get it, but I’m not going to”. There’s no avoiding it – I’ll have to go down to get it and do the climb again.
As it happens I did the climb a few seconds faster the second time and an important lesson was learnt. I won’t forget that again!
On we go, dropping off of the Wessex Ridgeway, across the low lands and over Tan Hill and down the other side, to roll into Avebury. A quick stop at the Red Lion for refreshments and we set off again to join the Ridgeway… our Ridgeway, it’s feeling like the home leg now. We climb through Barbury Castle and stop for an impromptu picnic at the car park there, then push on along increasingly familiar trails, Liddington Hill, Fox Hill, Wayland’s Smithy, the Uffington White Horse – now we’re into our habitual riding territory. The stiff westerly wind from yesterday is here again today but now it is on our backs and speeds are up. We make one last photo stop at the Loyd-Lindsay monument overlooking Wantage and then drop off of the Ridgeway into our village, for a celebratory pint (or two) at our local.
Day 4 summary
53 miles/85 km
3,835 ft/1,169 m
11.3 mph/18.2 km/h
3,033 kCal/12,690 kJ
Epilogue
We did it, and we did it well. All four of us made it round with just two punctures between us, no other mechanicals save for some luggage stability issues, no falls (a few near misses!) and no injuries or other medical dramas. We’re all chuffed to bits – the weather was near-perfect, the trails were a diverse mix of road (maybe a touch too much of that), farm tracks, singletrack, heath, chalk, gravel, sand, rock gardens, roots, loam… almost everything! The accommodations ranged from acceptable to enjoyable, the navigation worked well and we never fell out. It was a physical challenge but also a great few days seeing the sights and spending time cycling with mates with no fixed schedule, just go and stop according to the situation.
My training and pre-ride testing paid off - I was fit enough, never suffered any significant saddle soreness, the luggage all worked well, I didn't overpack too much, I took plenty of riding food (too much really) and the bike was faultless. Everything came together for a memorable first multi-day ride.
Total summary
224 miles/360 km
15,744 ft/4,799 m
I start writing this story some weeks before actually attempting the ride. I am a regular cyclist, mostly MTB, some gravel, a little road but generally I do rides in the region of 15-25 miles at a time, around 3 times a week. My biggest annual total is around 2,200 miles and my longest ride to date is 100 miles on road, and 66 off-road. I consider myself moderately fit and healthy, 51 years old with a fleet of 9 bicycles of various types. I have never done a multiple day ride and never done a cycling tour. However, ever since learning about the King Alfred's Way I have wanted to have a go at it, largely because it runs right past where I live.
I ride regularly with a group of like-minded, like-aged people from the village I live in. Once a week we do a ~20 mile MTB ride which ends at our local pub (having sometimes visited one or more other people's locals en route) where we stay until closing time (sometimes after) putting the world to rights. During these beer-fuelled 'recovery' sessions the KAW came up and a few of us expressed interest in doing it. As is the way the expression of interest was vague and unplanned, until one day when it suddenly started getting serious. One of our number took it upon themselves to organise it all and after one false start (the organiser set up a date that he himself couldn't make!) we had a date and an outline plan - King Alfred's Way in 4 days, starting from our village - who's in?
Four of us signed up and since then we have talked, messaged and WhatsApped about little else. Whilst one person was in charge of the planning, we all put our thoughts and suggestions in - how to divide the miles into the days, accommodation options and so on. As I write this, we have rooms booked in three locations, all pretty much bang on the route. June 29th is departure day.
The conversation now is about which bike to take, tyres, luggage, food and nutrition and a common theme of "come on lads, we have to take this seriously". One of our wider group has done the KAW - in two days - and is acting as an advisor. When we ride together normally it's all a bit informal - we chase each other up hills and compete for Strava segment times, there's a healthy dose of machismo and ego. We can't ride like that for the KAW - we have to learn how to ride efficiently and pace ourselves. We have to accept we may be off and pushing sometimes, we may be winching up a climb on the biggest cog at less-than-walking-pace, we can't be eating and drinking what we like and we may actually have to do some "training".
At times I look at the numbers and think it's beyond me. Day 1 for example, at around 70 miles, will be the longest off-road ride of my life so far... and then I have to do 3 more days after that. But then I look at people who have done it - our mate in 2 days, a recent report from someone who did it on a road bike (by the way, I was hugely impressed by this report, and let the rider know via Facebook - it was a real reality check for me), and others that make me think - if they can do it, I can.
So right now I am slowly amassing various items of luggage, I am reading about nutrition and recovery and hydration, I am planning my feeding strategy and I am also taking on longer rides where I am working out how to pace myself rather than go all-out. I think I have chosen the bike I'll do it on - a carbon-fibre full-sus MTB; not the typical KAW bike but my favourite to ride and the one I go to for taking segment times. The other option is an older carbon-fibre hardtail which I considered putting a rigid carbon fork on to make a lightweight, flat-barred, gravel flyer but the comfort of the full suspension is a compelling lure. My gravel bike is not in the running - too old, too heavy, too uncomfortable for such a long ride. I didn't even consider the road bike!
I have bought a couple of small frame bags to fill in the limited gaps available on my full-sus. I am awaiting delivery of a used tail pack bought on eBay and I am mulling a small-ish bar bag. I have a detailed packing list which I think will go in this luggage. I also recently replaced my venerable Kriega hydration backpack (Hydro 3) with a newer version (Tour 9) with more storage (aside: I love Kriega kit - the old pack has done 15 years of service and is still sound; it's costly but worth it). The bike is, as far as I can tell, in good form. The chain is still good, the tyres are quite new (tubeless), the bottom bracket is sound, all pivots and linkages are good, the shock and fork seem OK but I'll take a closer look. I will take a spare mech hanger, brake pads and chain link, plus appropriate tools. Also a tube and repair kit. Possibly a gear cable inner, although then I'll need something to cut it with. I am looking at everything with new eyes now... eyes that weigh every item and a brain that questions its need.
Right now though the main question is this - what will the weather be like? The weather will make a huge impact on the effort required and the enjoyment derived as well as practical issues like taking dirty bikes into hotel rooms or dealing with sunstroke. Mid-summer could be a heatwave or a monsoon. Or anything in between. I guess whatever it becomes, it will be part of the shared story that we will all be telling afterwards. Ad nauseum.
13 May - 47 days until departure
The tail pack arrived. Described as “used once” it’s in new condition, even as far as the original packaging. Very pleased with that. I’ve also ordered a small handlebar bag as Altura had them on a massive, irresistible discount and I thought I could do with the extra stash space.
I have, however, come down with a cold so training is on hold. I comfort myself by test-fitting the luggage and mentally packing everything.
21 May - 39 days until departure
Test ride! I ordered a smallish handlebar bag (Altura Gravel Bag) to complete my luggage setup and then set about fitting and testing it all. I then decided on a dress rehearsal, so fitted all the luggage and filled it with 4 days' stuff and took it for a 42 mile ride along the Ridgeway. The bar bag needed a bit of faffing to fit in a stable way that accommodated the cabling/hosing but once sorted it was fine. Everything else went on easily enough and I just about managed to squeeze in my proposed packing list of items, although after the ride will now review that.
It was a great ride though, on a number of counts:
- it gave me confidence in the luggage and the bike, that it isn't too heavy and unwieldy and the handling is not badly affected
- it gave me confidence in myself, that I could ride it on the terrain that we will be experiencing, and that I was able to pace myself in order to prioritise distance over speed
- it gave me confidence in my chosen nutrition and hydration strategies, that the food I was planning to take was easy to stash and eat, that I didn't react badly to any of it
- it was just a glorious day to be up on the North Wessex Downs!
My chosen destination was the Three Trees Farm Shop Café at Chiseldon, which sits right on the Ridgeway (although at this point the Ridgeway is part of the local road network). I enjoyed a lovely (but not inexpensive) refuelling stop there before setting off for the return leg home.
One factor I had failed to anticipate (rather naïvely!) was the number of other trail users that would be about. My bell probably got the hardest workout of the trip!
With that ride done I feel more positive about taking on the KAW and my chances of completion. There are still plenty of things that could come up - illness, injury, mechanicals and poor weather but fingers crossed for a good ride!
3 June - 26 days until departure
Another full dress rehearsal, this time with two of the group who will be riding together. Today was about doing more distance, retesting luggage and also riding at a pace to suit the whole group. I am likely the weakest link of the group so we need to work out how to stay together without pushing me too hard but letting the others ride at a comfortable pace.
Once again we did an out-and-back along the Ridgeway (it's our only local source of appropriate terrain and happens to be part of the KAW route). We settled at a decent endurance pace - I was occasionally dropped on longer climbs but that was as much about me pacing myself as it was about my ability to go faster. I had to keep reminding myself that I have to ride not only for today, but for tomorrow and the days after that too. As it happens the day after this ride I was taking on a local charity MTB ride of around 29 miles/2000 ft, so had the opportunity to do back-to-back days' riding to see how I felt.
We got along as a group, no frayed tempers (something we're expecting might happen during the KAW ride), a good pace and only one puncture (quickly repaired with a tubeless worm). 58 miles and 4,000 ft makes this ride similar to days 2, 3 and 4 of our trip - we all made it and I managed the next day's ride OK too. I have suffered a little saddle soreness so am going to be testing alternative saddles, padded shorts and chamois cremes. Starting to feel quite real now.
10 June - 19 days until departure
Day 1 route reconnaissance. I decided to set out along our planned day 1 route to explore it further, especially the supposedly tricky navigation through Reading. I went out half the way and then rode back, effectively covering the whole day 1 distance and making this my new off-road PB in terms of distance.
It was a hot day but worth the effort. Despite having a Wahoo ELEMNT Bolt with the track loaded and despite having some local knowledge of Reading having lived there for a few years, it was still tricky and I made a couple of wrong turns. However, having now worked it out, this should make it easier on Day 1 proper. I'll admit it did feel weird riding a mountain bike through The Oracle shopping centre, and despite my local knowledge, I had never ridden various bits of Reading so saw a lot of new stuff. Once clear of the town though it gets back to rural quiet as it heads into Hampshire. I got as far as Bramshill before a quick snack stop and the return leg.
The terrain is pretty flat and there's a fair proportion of paved paths and roads involved, so our plan of extending day 1 to get miles covered seems sound
28 June – 1 day until departure
I am still conflicted about this ride. I am immensely looking forward to it and also dreading it. I have packed the luggage and fitted it to the bike. I have tried to think of all eventualities but also tried to leave out as much as possible. I have gone over the bike with a fine-tooth comb but fear the unexpected mechanical failure. I have also resigned myself to the fact that there’s not a lot I can do about it now.
Training has, if I’m honest, been ‘tapering’ perhaps a bit too much and too long! I sort of ran out of enthusiasm for it but have forced myself to get out and get the miles in. I have been ‘carb loading’ too, with the excuse that the 4 days away will shed any excess that I may have accumulated.
The weather looks like it could go either way. The forecast is for high teens/low twenties with the possibility of occasional rain. There is also the threat of a strengthening westerly wind – good for days 1 and 4, not for days 2 and 3! The training rides have been during the May/June heatwave so hopefully conditions on the day will make it easier. One issue I have faced in training is sweat management – I sweat profusely and have tried a number of headband options to try and soak it up, but these all saturate eventually and drip into my eyes. A bit cooler weather should help here.
Banter amongst the group has gone a bit quiet – we have a pre-departure meeting tonight (ie a pint in the local) to discuss last minute details and then 08:00 tomorrow morning we’re off. I have the concurrent feeling that I am well-prepared but have forgotten something. As I said at the start, I’ve never done a multi-day ride before so have likely over-packed and under-estimated the challenge. It can’t be that hard, can it…?
06:00 29 June – 2 hours to departure
As is the way when I have a trip planned, I have a restless night and am awake early. I have been awake two or three times in the early hours and each time I wake I hear the same thing. Rain.
Whilst this was always a possibility, I hadn’t really planned for it. It is still warm so I’d rather not ride in a rain coat and the bike has no mudguards on it. I know my luggage is waterproof so I have no worries about stuff getting wet, just the bike and me getting plastered. The bike is packed and I don’t want to have to add anything or repack to adjust clothing. The forecast says it’ll stop but then lately the forecast appears to have been more fiction than fact. I get up, have some breakfast and grab a front mudguard – at least that’s easy to fit and will keep some of the dirt away from me and the bike.
08:00 29 June – departure time!
We meet at our local village hall car park and compare notes on clothing and kit. By now the rain has stopped although the ground is pretty wet. We plot the best route out of the village to avoid the inevitable wet grass, not wanting to get wet feet early on. My wife swings by on the school run to see us and we’re off! Today’s target is 69 miles, through Reading and out to the Berkshire/Hampshire borders, past Farnham, around Frensham Ponds and up to the Devil’s Punchbowl Hotel in Hindhead.
The weather soon warms and dries and we’re all glad we didn’t relent and over-dress. One puncture about 10 miles in is quickly fixed with a tubeless ‘worm’ which turns out to be the only issue of the day. Navigation through Reading is a breeze thanks to my earlier recce ride, and being a Thursday morning it is much quieter. Once south of Reading we’re following singletrack and country roads although there’s nowhere to stop for replenishment for a while. Just as we’re thinking about hunting a place down we happen across a pub in the middle of nowhere – The Barley Mow in Winchfield Hurst… and what a well-timed and welcome sight that was!
After some food and a pint we were refreshed and off again. After scaling the Ridgeway early on, this middle part of the route is largely flat and a mix of tracks and country roads and the miles come quickly. Soon enough though the terrain changes and we feel like we are really somewhere new – after chalky tracks overgrown with nettles we now come through heathland and battle through gorse.
Then we’re into pine forestry and a stretch of energy-sapping sand. Finally, as we home in on our destination for the night we come across a tricky climb – steep, narrow and strewn with storm-washed boulders and stones. It’s all I can do to top it out but I’m stubborn and I know we're nearly there, so I grind it out. The last mile or so overlooks The Devil’s Punchbowl until we reach the outskirts of Hindhead and our haven for the night.
The hotel allows us to store our bikes in their function room so long as they are clean, so we hose them down in the car park, let them dry and then wheel them in. The rooms are basic but comfortable enough but we opt to eat elsewhere, making a 20 minute walk into town (actually into the bordering town of Grayshott) for a fantastic Indian meal at The Bay Leaf. We walk back to the hotel for a quick nightcap and in bed by 10pm. All very sensible.
Day 1 summary
69 miles/111 km
3,711 ft/1,131 m
11.1 mph/17.9 km/h
4,194 kCal/17,548 kJ
30 June – day 2, Hindhead to Winchester
The days starts after another restless night and early wake-up. We take breakfast, repack the bikes and hit the road. The route starts quite urban but soon leads to some great trails through parks and forests. We know that day 2 is ‘the big one’ – not in distance but in climbing; there’s one infamous climb and several others to get over along the South Downs Way. We wend our way out through forest and glade until we hit the South Downs Way. One of our group has ridden this before and in the run-up to the ride had described how undulating it was – more so than anything we ride in our home patch.
At first it seems OK – well-defined, quite a lot of loose gravel and, as promised, quite up-and-down as it drops to cross rivers and streams then climbs out of the valleys again. One of our group picks up a puncture and has to change tubes but that was the last one of the trip. There’s a lovely section through the Queen Elizabeth Country Park which includes a stiff, loose climb but so far, so good.
Then we exit the park, cross a road and there it is – Butser Hill. There’s no missing it – there’s a sign welcoming you to Butser Hill and the view is filled with Butser Hill. It is obvious that the middle part is very steep and pre-ride research reveals that pretty much everybody is off and pushing up here. Let’s get this done.
Yes, I did get off and push just for the very steepest middle part but I believe on an unloaded bike I might have a shot at getting up it. As we’re climbing the hill a light drizzle starts to fall and by the time we summit we are knackered. We spy a strange, conical roof structure nearby and go to investigate. It turns out to be a fantastic food and drink hut – it couldn’t have been better timed, with us being exhausted from the climb and getting cold and damp from the light rain.
The rest of day 2 was a mix of trail and back road. There was a rather memorable descent along a washed-out, rock-strewn gulley with a couple of drop-offs along the way. By now I was more confident with how the luggage and bike handled the terrain so I went at it and had some fun. The ride finally enters the outskirts of Winchester and becomes increasingly urban until we come across the statue of the man himself.
The Travelodge hotel is nearby where we have an anxious wait due to a slight miscommunication in booking details, but we're soon wheeling our bikes into the lifts to take them to our rooms. These rooms are pretty basic and not roomy – it was snug!
Unbeknown to us, Winchester is hosting its annual Hat Fair, making the place quite lively. We enjoy an unexpectedly late night out that night and crawl into bed after 1am. Not especially sensible.
Day 2 summary
50 miles/80 km
4,291 ft/1,308 m
10.0 mph/16.1 km/h
3,069 kCal/12,841 kJ
1 July – day 3, Winchester to Market Lavington
Since we're staying in a Travelodge there is no breakfast option, so last night we had cast about for ideas. At first we considered the Wetherspoons where we had had dinner but during the evening festivities we had talked to some locals who recommended Josies, so we go there. It's a great recommendation and we get stuck in. There are a couple of jaded members amongst our group – I had taken it easy the night before so am tired but not hung over. This poor preparation is felt throughout the day though as we grind out the miles across Salisbury Plain. A brief stop at Old Sarum castle for an ice cream helps lift energy and mood levels though.
Lunch today is a more informal affair, taken on public benches outside the Co-op in Amesbury. After that we head for Stonehenge, through Larkhill and into the stiffening westerly wind that has developed. Our route takes along the edges of the firing ranges and we're lucky that we don’t have to detour, but do skirt a closed range for some miles. The open plains after that are purgatory – straight into the wind on grassy, chalky ruts means it isn’t a lot of fun and the remaining distance seems to tick down awfully slowly. Finally we drop off of the Wessex Ridgeway (a descent that yields 42 mph) into the village of Market Lavington, to our stop at The Green Dragon.
This is the pick of the stopovers for us – nice, sizeable rooms and a convivial atmosphere as we happen to be staying on the 2nd anniversary of the landlady’s tenancy so we enjoy the BBQ and live music that is put on. Early to bed though – much more sensible than last night.
Day 3 summary
52 miles/84 km
3,907 ft/1,191 m
10.4 mph/16.7 km/h
3,258 kCal/13,631 kJ
2 July – Day 4, Market Lavington to home
After the best night’s sleep of the tour it’s time for another full breakfast (well recommended!) and our final day in the saddle. Today is a bit different because as the day goes on we will be more and more familiar with the route until we’ll be riding on our own turf again. For most of the riding so far the navigation has been my responsibility – I built each day’s route and shared with the group before we left. Me and one other have been riding with GPS units on the bars – his a Garmin, mine a Wahoo and so far we have largely done OK. Later today though I will become redundant.
The day starts badly for me though. We pack up the bikes in the pub car park and depart – it’s warm and sunny and the first task of the day is to climb back up Lavington Hill to the Wessex Ridgeway. We had mulled other routes to avoid this big climb but in the end decided to just get on and do it. We winch our way up the hill and eventually top out; it was a tough climb but not as bad as we had feared and now that it was over we could get some progress done. About 2 minutes after topping out I realise something. I’m not wearing my backpack. It’s in the pub car park. At the bottom of the hill. I let the others know what I have done and their sympathy is overwhelming: “we’ll wait here whilst you go and get it” and “I would offer to come with you to get it, but I’m not going to”. There’s no avoiding it – I’ll have to go down to get it and do the climb again.
As it happens I did the climb a few seconds faster the second time and an important lesson was learnt. I won’t forget that again!
On we go, dropping off of the Wessex Ridgeway, across the low lands and over Tan Hill and down the other side, to roll into Avebury. A quick stop at the Red Lion for refreshments and we set off again to join the Ridgeway… our Ridgeway, it’s feeling like the home leg now. We climb through Barbury Castle and stop for an impromptu picnic at the car park there, then push on along increasingly familiar trails, Liddington Hill, Fox Hill, Wayland’s Smithy, the Uffington White Horse – now we’re into our habitual riding territory. The stiff westerly wind from yesterday is here again today but now it is on our backs and speeds are up. We make one last photo stop at the Loyd-Lindsay monument overlooking Wantage and then drop off of the Ridgeway into our village, for a celebratory pint (or two) at our local.
Day 4 summary
53 miles/85 km
3,835 ft/1,169 m
11.3 mph/18.2 km/h
3,033 kCal/12,690 kJ
Epilogue
We did it, and we did it well. All four of us made it round with just two punctures between us, no other mechanicals save for some luggage stability issues, no falls (a few near misses!) and no injuries or other medical dramas. We’re all chuffed to bits – the weather was near-perfect, the trails were a diverse mix of road (maybe a touch too much of that), farm tracks, singletrack, heath, chalk, gravel, sand, rock gardens, roots, loam… almost everything! The accommodations ranged from acceptable to enjoyable, the navigation worked well and we never fell out. It was a physical challenge but also a great few days seeing the sights and spending time cycling with mates with no fixed schedule, just go and stop according to the situation.
My training and pre-ride testing paid off - I was fit enough, never suffered any significant saddle soreness, the luggage all worked well, I didn't overpack too much, I took plenty of riding food (too much really) and the bike was faultless. Everything came together for a memorable first multi-day ride.
Total summary
224 miles/360 km
15,744 ft/4,799 m
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