In need of expert assistance please!

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Ghost66x

Ghost66x

Regular
Location
Alberta, Canada
Hey there, Im in need of some EXPERT assistance in my questions!
My apologies in advance for the way this is typed.

Many years ago i bought my first bike - a 2006 Kona Scrap - Orange - it was stolen a year or 2 after purchase. i rode the absolute **** outta that bike!

Jump to present - havent ridden since - Recently purchased a used 2005 Norco Atomik - my childhood dream bike- bike is literally stored inside my bedroom with my wife and i now. "I'l mess you up if you try to steal this one" went on a couple flat rides around the village i currently reside in.


i have had it in at a shop in my local settlement, i asked for an entire overhaul of the bike, fork seals, oil, cleaning etc, bb replacement. brake bleed and oil, disc brake pads, new discs shifter cables.


I dont think they did the rear hub, the freewheel cassette thing - noobie here- there is lots of grinding and doesnt feel like it spins as well as it should, i dont think it was ever serviced since new, can someone please assist me in a replacement hub thing - the cassette attaches to it i think, im waiting on the park tool - fr5.2 cassette lockring removal tool. ill weld up my own chain whip. i believe its like a semi sealed baering freehub freewheel thing cassette sprocket thing.

QUESTION 1:
Does anyone have any info on what type of rear hub freewheel thing i need? the cassette is - SHIMANO cs-hg30-81
Id rather buy a new one to throw on, but im not sure of the bearings in the hub itself. or the sizes of the bearings.

QUESTION 2:
Should i do a full rear wheel replacement? Hub, cassette, spokes, rim, freewheel/hub thing?
the rims are fine and same with the spokes, i want black spokes really tho, blue rims to match the bike. Cant afford that this year tho.

QUESTION 3:
What chain do i need? 2 gears at the cranks and 8 in the back so a 2x8?

the click of the pawls sounds ok

i feel the bearings are shot and or broken/dmg'd, i was going to open up the freehwheel thing and replace the bearings myself as i dont trust other bipedal creatures working on my bike - especially my bike. i do my own part replacement on my truck and motor cycle so i should be able to replace some bearings right? or can i just BUY a new on that will bolt on?
please send help!

google doesnt really help with finding specs and parts with my bike as its old, and the norco website bike look up only goes back to 07.

how do i upload an image?

here is some cool things i put on the bike

maxxis minions DHF 26 2.5 front and rear! i want a dhr at 26" 2.5 cant find one right now, also using TUBES. i dont liek the idea of tubeless on my mtb,

pic of bike had old tires on it before the minions, sorry images are wonky as pawls
 

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OP
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Ghost66x

Ghost66x

Regular
Location
Alberta, Canada
according to this website the stock atomik came with this..

Front: Novatec DH-41 20mm, Rear: Formula 12mm axle

https://www.bikepedia.com/Quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=93964

i think this may be wrong because it says 9 speed rear cassette but i counted mine at 8
 
C R

C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
Hello and welcome.

It is a bit difficult to tell from your description what the issue might be. You said that you asked the shop to do a full overhaul, so perhaps the first thing to do would be to go back to the shop and ask about the issues you noticed, it may just have been a small oversight.

You say that the pawls sound good, but that there's a crunchy feel. Is that feel when the wheel is turning or when changing gears?

In terms of what's in there, at 8 speed it is likely to be a wheel with a freehub. There will be two sets of bearings, one set for the wheel itself, and one set inside the freehub. I think if anything needs attention, the most likely place would be the wheel bearings, but to give advice on that we would need more details, like photos of the axle face on from both sides, and what kind of noises do you hear turning the wheel with both the chain on and off.
 
OP
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Ghost66x

Ghost66x

Regular
Location
Alberta, Canada
maybe its dirty? its almost like sand when spinning the cassette by hand, ill post more photos tomoro, its almost 2am here.

may someone recommend some lubricant for the freehub?

some say grease and some say liquid lube. i have wd40 but thats a solvent. i also have fork boost lube. i have a load of motorcycle wheel grease.

what i will do is when my fr 5.2 shows up in the mail ill remove the cassette and the freehub and give a cleaning maybe take a peak at the bearings.. if im lucky.. its dirty and un-damaged.
 
Last edited:
Ajax Bay

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Q3: 8sp cassette needs an 8sp chain eg SRAM 830. You may find the cassette has worn and when you put a new chain on it, it slips. If so replace cassette.
Q1: Freehub (Shimano) comes in 3 main flavours: 7sp, 8-10sp and 11sp. Need a big allen key to remove from hub.
Q2 = your call. See if you can sort the freehub first (oil not grease if lube is the issue). With your speshill colour 'needys' the new wheel will cost as it'll have to be bespoke hand built.
 
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Ghost66x

Ghost66x

Regular
Location
Alberta, Canada
after removal of wheel, cassette has a wobble, spinning axle is not smooth, can feel it roll over each bearing almost.
fr-5.2 just showed up, will need to get my hands on that chain whip, ordering that tomoro from park tools and the cone spanners. ill need to get my calipr out and measure those.

is the wheel bearings 1/4 inch? i think the freehub its self is 1/8th at 25 per side, and the wheel i believe is at 1/4 inch at 9 per side?

Please confirm the sizing thnks.

youtube has some good vids of a full tear down and bearing replacment for the freehub, same with the park tool repair guides from their website, are the bearing sizes universal for freehubs and wheels?

also found out the rear hub is a 12mmx150 size.

extra pics
576606

576607

576608

576609

576610
 
Last edited:
Ajax Bay

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Doubt the bearings are cup and cone so diameter of the different bearings (balls) is irrelevant (and no, there are not 'universal'). Can you see the flats that the cone spanners you're getting will engage on? 'Formula' rear hub.
I suggest you take this stuff bit at a time. Fabricate a chain whip ("I'll weld it up") or buy, remove and clean the cassette, the freehub externals and refit and ride.
 
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Big John

Big John

Guru
As regards the freehub. If you have many hours of free time available then by all means have a go at servicing it i.e. replace the bearings, grease it, etc, but the normal thing to do if there really is a problem with it is a simple replacement. As you're already familiar with doing a bit of spannering replacing will be an easy job with the help of YouTube. However, juggling with what at times seems like a thousand tiny ball bearings running amok is a lesson in patience and digital dexterity. Not beyond anyone on CC providing you're prepared to lose a few hours of your life in the process 😉 (I've said as much on other threads. I've serviced a few, thinking the next time would be easier but sadly it never was)
 
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Ghost66x

Ghost66x

Regular
Location
Alberta, Canada
Last edited:
Ajax Bay

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
I was just going to say: get the cassette off and have a look-see. I admire the OP's ambition. From not having a lockring tool or chainwhip to removing, identifying the correct replacement freehub body (and they cannot know the freehub is the problem), replacing the hub bearings.
OP's rear hub: "mine is 12mmx150 NUTTED" So not thru axle then?
 
C R

C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
Ajax Bay said:
I was just going to say: get the cassette off and have a look-see. I admire the OP's ambition. From not having a lockring tool or chainwhip to removing, identifying the correct replacement freehub body (and they cannot know the freehub is the problem), replacing the hub bearings.
OP's rear hub: "mine is 12mmx150 NUTTED" So not thru axle then?
Click to expand...
Re the axle, from the look of the locknut on the non drive side it appears to be a qr axle with cartridge bearings.
 
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