Ideas to improve folding bike brakes

[All uphill]

I recently bought 1986 Halfords folding bike, which has become my round town, won't get stolen bike.

When I bought it the brakes were woeful. I've replaced the steel front wheel with an aluminium one, replaced the plastic brake levers with stronger ones, and am using compressionless brake outers with new pads. The braking is vastly improved - they are now just poor.

Do you have any thoughts or experience on how to improve them further, or does the caliper drop of 72mm mean this is as good as I can expect?

 

[EckyH]

Dual pivot, stiffer brakes like the Tektro R369 probably will make a remarkable difference.
After that I'd try out different brake pads.
Swiss Stop and Koolstop have good reputations as far as I know.

E.

 

[figbat]

Dual pivot, stiffer brakes like the Tektro R369 probably will make a remarkable difference.
After that I'd try out different brake pads.

Beat me to it. I used a Dia Compe dual pivot on the front of my Dawes Kingpin which, along with alloy rims and better levers, had it stopping so well I feared for the integrity of the headset and fork!

 

[FrankCrank]

Of my collection, the best brakes are from a V-brake conversion I did myself, which meant welding bosses to the frame and fork. My others are varying degrees of mediocre. Doubt you'll be hurtling along at high speed, so maybe lousy brakes are something you have to accept on these old timers.

 

[Big John]

Dual pivots 👍

 

[All uphill]

Thanks for your suggestions. They really help.

I've ordered Tektro X long drop brakes.

 

[Drago]

And don't forget new cables.

 

[Ajax Bay]

How does the kickstand attach to your 1986 Halfords folding bike?
Asking for a colonial cousin otp.

 

[All uphill]

How does the kickstand attach to your 1986 Halfords folding bike?
Asking for a colonial cousin otp.

Sorry for the late reply, I haven't checked in on this thread for a few days.

The stand clamps between the chain stays.

 

[All uphill]

I fitted the long drop Tektro brakes this afternoon and braking is transformed.

I was delighted, then I realised it's started again; a £25 bike, £75 spent on a new seat post and brakes, and now the brakes are showing up play in the headset!

And it's still only worth £25.

 

[figbat]

…and now the brakes are showing up play in the headset!

I hate to say I told you so… 😉

 

[azbikes]

Of my collection, the best brakes are from a V-brake conversion I did myself, which meant welding bosses to the frame and fork. My others are varying degrees of mediocre. Doubt you'll be hurtling along at high speed, so maybe lousy brakes are something you have to accept on these old timers.

I recently bought 1986 Halfords folding bike, which has become my round town, won't get stolen bike.

View attachment 738272


When I bought it the brakes were woeful. I've replaced the steel front wheel with an aluminium one, replaced the plastic brake levers with stronger ones, and am using compressionless brake outers with new pads. The braking is vastly improved - they are now just poor.

Do you have any thoughts or experience on how to improve them further, or does the caliper drop of 72mm mean this is as good as I can expect?

You can try one little extra tip. Make sure your brake pads are slightly pigeon-toed as you look down on them from behind. In other words when you engage the brake, the first part of the brake pad should hit the rim first and then automatically pull in the rear end so the entire pad drags at the rim. This also eliminates the squeal. Also check the surface of your brake pad make sure it's not glazed over or shiny. If it is just take some light sandpaper to it or replace.
Btw, with these type of caliper brakes it's very hard to adjust the angle of how the brake pad hits the rim. Usually you have to get a crescent wrench and find a bite somewhere below the pad itself and manually bend the brake arm. But now that the v brakes have the concave washers, you could try that to get the angle correct.

 

[FrankCrank]

For those on the other side of the pond, a crescent wrench is what we know as an adjustable spanner.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Usually you have to get [an adjustable spanner] and find a bite somewhere below the pad itself and manually bend the brake arm.

I do not recommend bending the brake arm(s) causing plastic deformation.
The concave/convex washers allow toe-in: use that mechanism.
Otherwise, for braking improvement:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-blocks/kool-stop-v-brake-inserts-salmon-for-wet-muddy/