Hydraulic noob question: play in brake lever

[mrmacmusic]

I picked up my N+1 this morning from fellow CC'er theloafer (thanks Larry ), and need some help with the brakes.

I've never had discs before - cable or hydraulic - and the Cube is fitted with Hayes Stroker Ryde hydraulics. They seem to work OK (not had the chance to have a ride yet), but the lever for the back brake has a fair bit of play in it before it starts having any effect. I'm presuming that this might mean that they need bled and/or the fluid topped up? Is this something I can/should attempt myself, or is it the sort of job best left to the LBS?

Should I have any "hydraulic-specific" tools in my kit (both in the shed and in my saddlebag)..? I'm conscious that if I inadvertently squeeze the brake lever whilst the wheel is off (like when I'm fixing a puncture) I might not get it back on!

 

[Cubist]

It's more likely that pad is getting a bit thin.
Stroker Ryde have reach /bite point adjust. There's a 2.5mm allen key grub screw which adjusts the bite point towards or away from the handlebar. Experiment to take up the slack.

You don't need special tools. Hydraulic brakes are less maintenance than rim brakes!

 

[Cubist]

http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Stroker45-21883EnglishWeb.pdf

 

[mrmacmusic]

It's more likely that pad is getting a bit thin.
Stroker Ryde have reach /bite point adjust. There's a 2.5mm allen key grub screw which adjusts the bite point towards or away from the handlebar. Experiment to take up the slack.

You don't need special tools. Hydraulic brakes are less maintenance than rim brakes!

Thanks Dave I'll check it out, but I'm fairly sure it's not the reach adjustment – the lever AND piston are loose/slack, and move 10mm or so before they are in the "brake off" position. By contrast, the front lever/piston is not loose, so the "brake off" position is the lever at rest with no play. Both front and back levers seem to require a similar amount of pressure to apply the brakes.

Again, I'm new to hydraulics so appreciate any further advice – I would have expected excessive travel of the lever when applied (or the need for extra pressure when applying the brakes) to indicate pad wear. Is that right?

 

[mrmacmusic]

Another thought just popped into my head re hydraulics, so I thought I'd tag this on here... Do hydraulic brakes perform differently in cold and hot conditions? Presumably the brake fluid will contract and expand, or does it not really work like that?

 

[Cubist]

If they needed bleeding they would feel spongy, so I doubt this is the problem. Excessive play possibly sounds like the adjuster screw has been wound out (or even lost?)
There's probably a slight difference in performance depending on ambient temp, but not enough for mortals like me to notice. Biggest problems are fade though overheating caused by sustained braking, dragging etc. on long downhills.

 

[mrmacmusic]

Thanks again Dave

 

[lpretro1]

It may be that the seals on the lever plunger into the master cyclinder are worn and sticky. It is possible to rebuild.

 

[mrmacmusic]

It may be that the seals on the lever plunger into the master cyclinder are worn and sticky. It is possible to rebuild.

Cheers Ipretro1 I've just actually had a wee look, and it's definitely not the pads or the grub screw... I'm leaning towards your theory, and will probably fire it into the LBS for a quick once over just to be sure.