How to tighten the cable (not the brakes) on my bike?

[Boris Bike]

Hi All,

I have a Boardman CX, so SRAM Apex DoubleTap shifters and Avid BB5 disk brakes. I already know how to adjust the BB5s (great page here if anyone's interested - http://bluecollarmtb.com/2006/10/30/how-to-dial-in-avid-bb5-mechanical-disc-brakes/).

However when I've loosened them up enough that the wheels spin freely, I find that I have to squeeze the brakes too much and the shifters get stuck against the drop bar (have to flick them back with my fingers). How do I go about making the cable itself tighter/shorter so I don't have to pull the brakes as much?

Cheers

 

[CopperCyclist]

I had this issue on mine. I tried new cables, endless adjustments, better top quality cables, and nothing worked, I was always left with the problem of 'too much pull' and the shifter getting stuck if I broke hard.

In the end I upgraded to Avid BB7's and the problem doesn't exist with these brakes. I know this may not be what you wanted to hear.

 

[mickle]

Have you considered taking it back to the shop?

 

[Boris Bike]

I had this issue on mine. I tried new cables, endless adjustments, better top quality cables, and nothing worked, I was always left with the problem of 'too much pull' and the shifter getting stuck if I broke hard.

In the end I upgraded to Avid BB7's and the problem doesn't exist with these brakes. I know this may not be what you wanted to hear.

Hmmm I was hoping it would be an easy answer that didn't cost me any money.

How much did the new ones cost?

 

[Boris Bike]

Have you considered taking it back to the shop?

I've had it since August, so too long now. It's not a massive problem, but Like PC Cycleman, it happens when I have to brake hard.

I've got a service booked in next month to see if they can do anything.

 

[potsy]

I have a similar problem with mine, maybe not quite as bad as you describe but far from perfect.
Have done just shy of 2000 miles on mine and the pads are ready for changing (font) so have ordered some of the discobrake ones.
Will probably let these pads wear out then look at changing to BB7's, they are around £50 each.

 

[mickle]

I've had it since August, so too long now. It's not a massive problem, but Like PC Cycleman, it happens when I have to brake hard.

I've got a service booked in next month to see if they can do anything.

One year warranty I presume?

 

[Boris Bike]

What other benefits do the BB7's offer over the 5's?

 

[Boris Bike]

One year warranty I presume?

Guess so (from Halfords), but I don't trust them to be able to sort it out. I'd like to learn how to do it myself, plus I don't want to be without it whilst they fix it.

 

[potsy]

What other benefits do the BB7's offer over the 5's?

Larger pads for better stopping power, and dual knob adjustment for easier fettling

 

[Boris Bike]

fettling

I learnt a new word

 

[lejogger]

I had this problem on mine. I'm very much an amateur fettler, but is it not the case that the pull distance of the lever is proportional to how tight the cable is? I pulled the cable through a few mm where it joins the brake unit via the allen key clamp so that it was a sensible pull tension. Then I adjusted the set up as per the bluecollarmtb link above. Then it should just be a case of dialling the pads in a bit closer once you get a bit of wear.

 

[NormanD]

If you still have the bar brakes fitted, then you can remove them and replace them (in the same position) with THIS without the need to replace the cables.

When I'm back home I'll type in how I adjust mine

 

[NormanD]

Ok before you make the adjustments as per the link, first make sure your rotors are as true as you can make them. I do this by turning the bike over so it's laying on the hoods and the saddle, then I hold a felt tip pen, black tip against rotor and the pen resting against the fork leg / frame for support. Rotate the wheel one full turn and note where the pen touches by the black line it'll leave.

If the rotor is out of true you can correct this by using a large adjustable spanner wrench slipped over the rotor (almost closed jaws) and using gentle force move the rotor in or out (depending on the felt tip pen marks)to correct the alignment of the rotor, it's a bit like truing a wheel.

Now make sure the cable tension adjustment knobs are screwed down finger tight against the brake (no gap) Now remove the spring between the pads (just pulls out) and bend the legs outwards to re tension it and place it back between the pads . Now follow the instructions as per the link (I use the card a mobile phone sim is fixed too as a spacer)

Once I've made the adjustment (as per the link) I mark the brake wire at the point it's held by the retaining screw on the brake arm. I then slacken off the wire retaining screw just enough so the cable can just move. Holding the cable under tension I slide the brake arm forwards of that mark by about 2 - 3mm and re-tighten, this takes up the small slack between the arm and the pad.

test by spinning the wheel and trying the brakes, any small adjustment can be made via the cable tension screw.

 

[CopperCyclist]

Potsy answered for me. About forty to fifty pounds each, and the main benefit is an easy adjustment knob on both sides.

I like my bar brakes so didn't want to take them off.

Mickle - I tried taking mine back to the shop at the beginning, which was of course Halfords. They simply tighten the brakes enough that the pull was less, meaning the shifter wouldn't get stuck. This was however at the price of horrendous brake rub the other end! I asked them to try again, and they loosened it to solve the rub but brought back the stuck shifter problem. I gave up, tried myself and got it to a 'tolerable' place, but the shifter still got stuck with a heavy emergency type brake.

The BB7's solved it for me - I'm sure there's a better way, but it's the only one that worked for me!