How to spot a good quality bike

[Sam Kennedy]

I thought it would be helpful if people posted tips on how to spot good quality bikes, just to stop people getting ripped, and to help them make better buying decisions. Maybe it could become a sticky if enough people post

I'm not sure on this myself, but I think metal brake handles, and anything but gripshifters are good, but I'm not 100% on this.
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[ed_o_brain]

Hubs that are branded, with the exception of those branded Formula or Quando.

I will qualify this by saying that unbranded hubs are not a bad thing, and neither are those branded Formula or Quando... necessarily.

However, if you are looking at bikes with hubs from Shimano, Mavic you know expenses more than likely have not been spared on other components.

 

[jimboalee]

Stainless steel spokes.
Double butted better.

 

[jimboalee]

For interest:

Any bike will remain reliable and durable IF the user/owner maintains and adjusts it regularly.

The most expensive bikes can fail IF the user/owner neglects it.

 

[Randochap]

It's all shiny and stuff.

 

[Crankarm]

It's not hard to work out if you buy bikes in Argos or from the back of the Daily Express you are going to get a sh1t bike. Where as if you visit a decent bike shop you will likely get something that won't let you down or embarrass you. But as always you get what you pay for. Something called research comes to mind. Fail to prepare and prepare to fail. Caveat Emptor.

Better to spot a good quality rider. Conversely too many place too much emphasis on top end race bikes and neglect their own capabilities. All the gear no idea comes to mind .

 

[RedBike]

Normally lots of 9's or 0's in the price!

For me it's all in the detail. That extra bit of efforts been made to produce that part and better quality materials have been used.

What I dislike most are 'look a like' parts. Anything that simply for show. For example, triple clamp forks on an £80 full suspension bike.

Having a rear mech from a high level groupset where it's highly visable but cramp parts everywhere else.

 

[Dan B]

For interest:

Any bike will remain reliable and durable IF the user/owner maintains and adjusts it regularly.

But if you've ever worked on a BSO you'll know that some bikes are more easily maintainable than others: brake calipers that don't flex under load, bolt heads made of something other than cheese, etc etc. If you take "maintenance" to include "replacing not-fit-for-purpose parts" then trivially this statement is correct, but the biek may end up costing more than you thought it would

 

[I am Spartacus]

a 08 TARMAC COMP that went for 920 notes on Ebay recently.. and I missed out by 20

 

[jimboalee]

But if you've ever worked on a BSO you'll know that some bikes are more easily maintainable than others: brake calipers that don't flex under load, bolt heads made of something other than cheese, etc etc. If you take "maintenance" to include "replacing not-fit-for-purpose parts" then trivially this statement is correct, but the biek may end up costing more than you thought it would

So my Halfords Apollo gent's bike which was £39.99 new in 1983 is still a bag of shoot although it has only needed a pair of tyres and tubes and a new chain 5 years ago.

It runs. It keeps going on the original brakes with the original blocks. The original wheel bearings even

Shall I mention a 1974 BSA 20" shopping bike?
How much maintenance is neccessary to keep a bike on the road? Not a lot, except not many bike owners ( note my reluctance to use the term 'cyclists' ) put in the work.

I bought myself a 'cheap bag of shoot' in 2003 ( Raleigh Firefly ). My son rides it now when he visits. It is "mint" (as it is said in motoring circles).

Why do so many 'bike owners' complain the bike has broken when it is obvious the bike hasn't seen a moment of care and attention?

 

[RedBike]

So my Halfords Apollo gent's bike which was £39.99 new in 1983 is still a bag of shoot although it has only needed a pair of tyres and tubes and a new chain 5 years ago.

It runs. It keeps going on the original brakes with the original blocks. The original wheel bearings even

lol, if it's had the original brake blocks for the last 26years then it can't exactly be used very regularly. I can go through a set a ride in winter!

 

[swee'pea99]

lol, if it's had the original brake blocks for the last 26years then it can't exactly be used very regularly. I can go through a set a ride in winter!

Yegods! What are your rims made of, sandpaper?

 

[RedBike]

When the wheels are covered in grit/mud I guess I am effectively sand-papering the blocks.

 

[jimboalee]

lol, if it's had the original brake blocks for the last 26years then it can't exactly be used very regularly. I can go through a set a ride in winter!

Would you prefer to go through a pair of rims a ride in the winter?

For winter commuting, I have chromed steel rims and leather faced blocks. Negligable wear but much earlier brake application. And NO black squidink mess running down forks, stays and around rims.

 

[swee'pea99]

To answer the OP, I don't think you do 'spot' a good quality bike; you research it. That's what google is for.