How To Flip The Stem On My Road Bike?

[iRide]

Last month I got my first road bike (Giant TCR) and I was wanting to flip the stem. How exactly would I do this? What would I need? I just did a fitting to be sure that the bike fit well, so will flipping the stem mess anything up (ex. making me more stretched out or anything)? And finally, should I do it myself, or make another long trip to the bike shop for them to do it?

After this picture was taken, I swapped out the seats and lowered the seat a little, so now the seat and the handle bars are almost exactly level-

http://s611.photobucket.com/albums/...=view&current=OKmay19thphotographyyyyy355.jpg

 

[rustychisel]

Well it's easy, so you can reverse the process if the fit isn't right.

You'll need a correct sized Allen key - probably 5mm though it might be other. The topcap (on top of stem and steerer tube is likely to be 6mm). Have a set handy.

Loosen off the 2 bolts at the back of the stem (don't need to remove them, just slacken until you can swivel the stem and bars side to side a bit).

Loosen and remove bolt and topcap (this provides preload tension on the headset bearings (top and bottom of headtube).

Undo and remove bolts and faceplate of stem (2 or 4 bolts) and set to one side, allowing handlebars to swing free.

Pull stem off fork steerer, along with any spacers etc above it, and invert stem. Replace spacers.

Now re-assemble following reversed instructions. Grease threads of all bolts, it'll save you a lot of creaking sounds down the track.

put bars in place, carefully tighten stem bolts onto faceplate (correct way up?) and if its a 4 bolt face then tighten gradually going around the 4 bolts in the following pattern.

1 3

4 2

Don't go too tight, try to tighten all bolts evenly, and make sure the bars are centred and angled correctly for you.

Then finger tighten the stem bolts at the steerer end (only just) and then reinstall topcap and preload bolt. Tighten gently until the headset bearings swing smoothly and there is no 'play' (ie rocking or looseness) in the fork or bearings. When happy with this adjustment, snug down the stem bolts to clamp the stem onto the fork steerer. (it's common to get this wrong once or twice and to repeat the steps to achieve desired preload).

Check again that all bolts are installed correctly and check snugness. Resist the temptation to snug down bolts 'just to make sure'.

 

[ASC1951]

I just did a fitting to be sure that the bike fit well,..... I swapped out the seats and lowered the seat a little, so now the seat and the handle bars are almost exactly level

Was that fitting by the bike shop? If so, I wouldn't have been so quick to lower the saddle from their setting.

Most people ride with the saddle above the top of the bars and the taller and stronger rider you are, the bigger the gap. That is the most efficient position and over distance the most comfortable, so perhaps you would be better getting used to it rather than flipping the stem?

Obviously it all depends on your dimensions and riding style, but less experienced and less fit riders generally start with a position which is too upright. If your bike shop session was just a 'step over the bar' assessment, there are lots of websites to give you more precise instructions - someone will be along in a moment to give you some.

 

[02GF74]

Undo and remove bolts and faceplate of stem (2 or 4 bolts) and set to one side, allowing handlebars to swing free.

unless you have an ITM or similar stem that has one bolt thus requiring the bars and all gubbins on one half of the bar (tape and brake lever) to be removed.

watch out that you have enough slack in brake and gear cables through whole range of steering movement.

 

[rustychisel]

nup, checked the OPs picture of bike. 'Standard' A-Head stem with detachable faceplate.

 

[Crankarm]

Flipping a stem is as easy as an MP flipping his or her houses.