How should locktight be used.

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Cyclopathic

Veteran
Location
Leicester.
I've bought some but the instructions are soooo utterly tiny I can't see them with a magnifying glass.

Do I just put it on and tighten the bolt or do I have to let it dry first, before putting nut and bolt together?
 

rbreid

Old git on old bikes
For best effect absolute cleanliness is essential. I use meths to clean. Have always assembled immediately and never had a problem.
 

cosmicbike

Perhaps This One.....
Moderator
Location
Egham
For best effect absolute cleanliness is essential. I use meths to clean. Have always assembled immediately and never had a problem.

Yep, make sure all parts are clean, dry, free from grease. Either meths or white spirit does the job. A very small amount is enough, and assemble straight away. I assume you have bought the right one..
 

TheDoctor

Noble and true, with a heart of steel
Moderator
Location
The TerrorVortex
Clean the bits, put it on and tighten. That's it.
It's an anaerobic adhesive, which is to say it hardens in the absence of oxygen. There's therefore no absolute need to assemble immediately, but it's messy stuff if you don't. And it tastes funny if you get it on your fingers and don't notice. DAMHIKT.
 
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slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
There are lots of different versions of Loctite. Some just keep a thread from vibrating loose, and some, like the "engineering adhesive" versions, are impossible to disassemble without heating up the joint to a high temperature. Make sure you use the right one. Cleaning the parts with a solvent cleaner is essential for any version.
 

the_mikey

Legendary Member
+1
I use loctite threadlocker, just a tiny drop is enough . I use it on mudguard and rack bolts. Avoid using too much, and be wary of using it if there is a risk of the force needed to break the adhesive will cause damage.
 

guitarpete247

Just about surviving
Location
Leicestershire
On a bike? It shouldn't, no need for it IME.
I disagree.

A couple of years ago I lost a cleat bolt on my SPD shoes. I couldn't unclip. I've loctited the bolts in place and never had that problem since. I know I can get the bolts out as I've replaced cleats once. Then re-loctited them in.
 

biggs682

Itching to get back on my bike's
Location
Northamptonshire
It is routinely used by manufacturers in the bolts that hold V-brake callipers to the forks. I can't remember taking one off that did not have a blue splodge down the side or is it something else?
you wait till you have one that wont budge and you end uo having to drill a fixing out
 
OP
OP
Cyclopathic

Cyclopathic

Veteran
Location
Leicester.
you wait till you have one that wont budge and you end uo having to drill a fixing out
I have had to do that but only with a bolt head that had sheared off and was rusted in place. The stuff I've got is only the medium/light strength blue that they use in the V-brake bosses, mostly to prevent vibration working them loose. So far I've not had a problem getting them out, they are just a little bit resistant which is what I'm after.
 
If you use the "loctite" brand of threadlock, the packaging is colour coded in strength.

Just avoid the black one, as that is designed for permanent use, and not for disassembly.

Another suggestion I would have is to avoid using threadlock in low torque situations, as often the thread lock can make it stronger than the component itself. Additionally, bolts vibrating loose are often a cause of them not being tight enough in the first place, nuts and bolts tighten by the stretching of the bolt and the clamp tension then under the bolt head. Inadequate tightening will allow movement through vibration due to lack of tension.

It is worth noting that most applications that it is used, are safety critical components that are not designed for removal, if it's a nut and a bolt that isn't captive, you have better, options than a thread locking compoud, such as star washers, spring washers, nylock nuts, stover nuts, etc. Thread lock isn't usually my first choice for keeping bolts together,
 
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