All year round commuter bike has done about 3400 miles since last chain, but needed a new cassette.
"Best" bike had done about 4000, but wasn't as worn. Changed the cassette anyway.
All year round commuter had previously done about 7000 miles on one chain before it started to mis-shift, cost me a new chain, cassette and chainset, or in cash terms £60 more than if I'd changed the chain twice.
I'd forgotten how much more precise gear changes are when you've got spanking new bits on, worth doing regularly
Am going to try the method of buying another chain and swapping over each time the chain is cleaned to see if it extends the life of the cassette.
You can measure a chain without a tool if you have a ruler:
Use a good ruler, preferably a metal one, and measure a nominal 12" (24 pins) of your chain. Measure the lower run which is under slight tension from the rear derailleur's spring.
A new chain should measure nearly exactly 12.0" over 24 pins. A chain that's slightly worn but usable will measure 12-1/16" between the centers of the pins and a worn chain that definitely needs replacement will measure 12-1/8". Some riders who want to protect their cassettes will replace a chain at 12-1/16".