How do you know when your BB30 Bottom Bracket is knackered?

[cloggsy]

I'm getting vibrations through my pedals from (I think) my crank; especially under load (when cycling uphill etc.) is this likely to be my bottom bracket bearings?

 

[User6179]

I'm getting vibrations through my pedals from (I think) my crank; especially under load (when cycling uphill etc.) is this likely to be my bottom bracket bearings?

If your on a boardman I would say 100% yes , take off your crank and see if the bearings moving freely .

 

[Rob3rt]

Check the pedals for play 1st.

 

[cloggsy]

Check the pedals for play 1st.

No, I can't feel any 'play', but I'm getting a shuddering 'vibe' when peddling; especially under higher load (i.e. going uphill etc).

 

[I like Skol]

I've just had to replace a steel chainring on my hybrid for this very same reason, a vibration/growling while pedalling hard. The bike has covered about 4500 miles and even comparing new against old the middle chainring didn't really look worn with just a slight visible contact point on the teeth. I doubted I had found the problem while I fitted the new chainring but a commute trip soon confirmed the noise was gone with the new part installed.

 

[cloggsy]

I've just had to replace a steel chainring on my hybrid for this very same reason, a vibration/growling while pedalling hard. The bike has covered about 4500 miles and even comparing new against old the middle chainring didn't really look worn with just a slight visible contact point on the teeth. I doubted I had found the problem while I fitted the new chainring but a commute trip soon confirmed the noise was gone with the new part installed.

Ooo, interesting... I'l have a butchers at my chainring tonight; maybe time to upgrade to a 53/39 on the front...

 

[NormanD]

I'd say one of your BB30 bearings has failed, I had this on my Boardman CX after only 40 miles, so bought and replaced the bearings myself and it's been smooth sailing since. They're not hard to replace, but you'll need the removal tool and fitting kit to help you.

 

[cloggsy]

I'd say one of your BB30 bearings has failed, I had this on my Boardman CX after only 40 miles, so bought and replaced the bearings myself and it's been smooth sailing since. They're not hard to replace, but you'll need the removal tool and fitting kit to help you.

I thought the bearings in a BB30 were in the 'screw-off end caps' (sorry, don't know the correct 'terminology' for these...) Do you remove the caps, remove the bearings from the caps & replace?

 

[NormanD]

No if its the FSA crank, then they are push fit bearings like THESE
Step 1. Remove the locking ring on the non drive side (noted by six small indentations in it) if I remember right this unscrews anti-clockwise.

Step 2. Undo and remove the locking nut (non drive side) 10mm allen key will be needed for this.

Step 3. knock the crank spindle out to the drive side (I.E from non drive side to drive side) with a rubber mallet or a hammer and block of wood. (make a note of which sides the spacers and seals come off)

Step 4. use the removal tool and slide it into the bearing so that it hold the bearing from inside face. I used a long extension bar from my socket set to knock the bearing out from the opposite end (remove both bearings this way)

Step 5. clean all surfaces

Step 6. check both new bearings for free movement, I stripped and cleaned mine and added ceramic grease.

Step 7. lightly grease the face to accept the new bearings

Step 8. You can add the bearings using the installation tool by gently tapping it with a hammer 12-6-3-9 in that order to knock the new bearings up to the stop ring (take great care while doing this) I was lucky in that I had a bearing TOOL to hand.

Step 9. lightly grease the spindle shaft of the crank, add the spacers and seals and push it back into place, then add the non drive side crank arm (seals and spacers too) and tighten up again.

Step 10. Go get yourself a drink and wonder for the next few hours if these bearings will last longer than the last ones

 

[cloggsy]

No if its the FSA crank, then they are push fit bearings like THESE
Step 1. Remove the locking ring on the non drive side (noted by six small indentations in it) if I remember right this unscrews anti-clockwise.

Step 2. Undo and remove the locking nut (non drive side) 10mm allen key will be needed for this.

Step 3. knock the crank spindle out to the drive side (I.E from non drive side to drive side) with a rubber mallet or a hammer and block of wood. (make a note of which sides the spacers and seals come off)

Step 4. use the removal tool and slide it into the bearing so that it hold the bearing from inside face. I used a long extension bar from my socket set to knock the bearing out from the opposite end (remove both bearings this way)

Step 5. clean all surfaces

Step 6. check both new bearings for free movement, I stripped and cleaned mine and added ceramic grease.

Step 7. lightly grease the face to accept the new bearings

Step 8. You can add the bearings using the installation tool by gently tapping it with a hammer 12-6-3-9 in that order to knock the new bearings up to the stop ring (take great care while doing this) I was lucky in that I had a bearing TOOL to hand.

Step 9. lightly grease the spindle shaft of the crank, add the spacers and seals and push it back into place, then add the non drive side crank arm (seals and spacers too) and tighten up again.

Step 10. Go get yourself a drink and wonder for the next few hours if these bearings will last longer than the last ones

No, Mine is a SRAM crank (on a Boardman Team Carbon 2010 model).

Fantastic 'how to' instructions though!

 

[02GF74]

regarding the BB30 bearing installation tool - I take it one piece fits insdie the bearing with the outer part aligning the bearing into the BB shell, the second piece is used to press the bearing in to shell ????