Hollowtech ll Bottom Bracket

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koro

Active Member
Hi,

Just a quick question. I have a Giant Defy 2, just ordered a proper tool to remove BB. Hopefully just to clean and regrease the Hollowtech ll. If I were to replace with a new one, have you any idea as to what I could upgrade it with?

Cheers
Mark
 
Spooky - I also have a Defy2 (2010) and have just ordered some 68mm Ultegra BB cups from ChainReaction for £15 - cheaper than the lower model 105 version.

It is pretty hard to get to the bearings inside the Shimano Hollowtech BB cups due to quite an akward to get at (and delicate) rubber o-ring seal, so picking out the seal to clean and regrease the bearings is...well, maybe you can manage it with a pin or the pointy end of a stanley knife, but for the sake of 15 quid I won't bother trying.


Hopefully it will banish a new click the bike has developed after 5K miles of all year round riding.
 
I've tried the Hope BB (see here)

Personally it didn't provide a performance upgrade so I eBayed it - it may last a bit longer but at the price I'd stick with Shimano.
 
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koro

koro

Active Member
Spooky - I also have a Defy2 (2010) and have just ordered some 68mm Ultegra BB cups from ChainReaction for £15 - cheaper than the lower model 105 version.

It is pretty hard to get to the bearings inside the Shimano Hollowtech BB cups due to quite an akward to get at (and delicate) rubber o-ring seal, so picking out the seal to clean and regrease the bearings is...well, maybe you can manage it with a pin or the pointy end of a stanley knife, but for the sake of 15 quid I won't bother trying.


Hopefully it will banish a new click the bike has developed after 5K miles of all year round riding.




Thanks for that, for the sake of £15 it makes sense....Thanks for the `68mm Ultegra` mention, I wouldn`t have known what to look for...

I`ve not taken the BB off before, have done approx 2500 miles. Getting the feel of it being "harsh". Maybe a clean will help. But as you say £15, cheap enough.

Cheers
 
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koro

koro

Active Member
I've tried the Hope BB (see here)

Personally it didn't provide a performance upgrade so I eBayed it - it may last a bit longer but at the price I'd stick with Shimano.


Appreciate your reply....

I had a similar experiance when I upgraded the wheels.... I had im my mind either Eastons or Fulcrums. My lbs put some Fulcrums on, cost way more than the Xero Lites that he said were the way to go. Unless his mark up was way better than on these than the Fulcrums, the Xero as well as being way cheaper. Were in my opinion just as impressive as the Fulcrums. They have been superb.
I think I got caught up in the magazine spiel..... I now ignore the label, and try them out myself.
 
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koro

koro

Active Member
Hi,

Another thought, has anyone just replaced the bearings with better quality ones. Have googled, various ways of doing so...just want to be sure if I were to go same way, I replaced them with correct bearings which were of better quality. Would ceramic be taking it a bit far?

Cheers
 

byegad

Legendary Member
Location
NE England
I swapped my HtII BB earlier this year. There was a little bit of slop in the old one and the replacement cost me under £13 from CRC.
With the right tools it's a five minute job.
 
I swapped my HtII BB earlier this year. There was a little bit of slop in the old one and the replacement cost me under £13 from CRC.
With the right tools it's a five minute job.

12 minutes including cleaning the threads (which took longer than I expected) and replacing the chain - I timed it.
biggrin.gif


Oh yes - many thanks to AccountantPete and his diagnosis, my left BB cup was indeed loose when I tried it earlier, there was also quite a lot of grit inside the thread and behind the cups on that side, which matches the location of the clicking feeling. I will see if that has been resolved tomorrow, so hopefully the Ultegra BB will remain on the shelf for the time being until I have genuinely worn the bearings out (one more winter maybe).
 

gbb

Squire
Location
Peterborough
Hi,

Another thought, has anyone just replaced the bearings with better quality ones. Have googled, various ways of doing so...just want to be sure if I were to go same way, I replaced them with correct bearings which were of better quality. Would ceramic be taking it a bit far?

Cheers

Kinda answered this on your other post Koro, but to nail it down in detail.
I did my FSA BB. I have access to SKF bearings and you wont beat them in quality without spending an awful lot more.
If you take a standard SKF bearing (-2RS, two seals) and spin it in your hand, you can feel the drag/resistance. Thats no problem of course, they're designed to run at thousands of RPM in motors etc. Its no real problem on a bike.

If you take a low friction sealed SKF bearing (which is -2RSL, although i think that suffix is old now, they keep changing them)...it spins so much more freely, you can really feel it.

The trouble is, for the average guy to get access to SKFs low friction bearings, you're not going to get them off ebay etc, you'd have to go to a bearing distributor...and they're not cheap cheap, if you know what i mean.
 
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koro

koro

Active Member
Kinda answered this on your other post Koro, but to nail it down in detail.
I did my FSA BB. I have access to SKF bearings and you wont beat them in quality without spending an awful lot more.
If you take a standard SKF bearing (-2RS, two seals) and spin it in your hand, you can feel the drag/resistance. Thats no problem of course, they're designed to run at thousands of RPM in motors etc. Its no real problem on a bike.

If you take a low friction sealed SKF bearing (which is -2RSL, although i think that suffix is old now, they keep changing them)...it spins so much more freely, you can really feel it.

The trouble is, for the average guy to get access to SKFs low friction bearings, you're not going to get them off ebay etc, you'd have to go to a bearing distributor...and they're not cheap cheap, if you know what i mean.


Thanks for your detailed reply, there is a good bearing distributor in my local town. Many years ago through work they were always helpfull. What kind of money would you think I would be looking at for a low friction SKF?
 
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