Help Play in front fork

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David5416

Über Member
I went out for a quick 30 miler the other day and whilst out found a little bit of play in my front fork. On arriving home i tried to tighten the play out but only ended up rounding off the hex nut on the top of the cap.
I bought a new FSA cap,compression plug etc for a carbon bike/fork ( easier than trying to source a Cube cap and bolt) and again tried to sort the problem. I just cannot seem to get rid of a little bit of play however tight or lose i have the plug and the top cap. I have followed the instructions to the letter but to no avail. Any help would be greatly appreciated before i lose the will to live.
 

Colin_P

Guru
Did you undo the two horizontal bolts that clamp the stem to the fork top?

Order of work should be, starting with everything loose;

1, Centre bars and stem to wheel.
2, Do up top vertical single bolt to draw everything down to remove play in bearings.
3, Tighten up horizontal clamp bolts.
 

crazyjoe101

New Member
Location
London
I'd add to the above that ideally you should loosen off the top cap before you loosen off the pinch bolts. Also, when tightening the pinch bolts, you should tighten them 'simultaneously', as in, a bit at a time on each one alternatively so that they are each holding similar loads; don't tighten one and then the other as this could destroy the parts on your bike.
 

Levo-Lon

Guru
As above posts have said
if you still have play after that id think the bearings are shot" does the steering feel nice and smooth through 180 deg? Any notchyness found ? Fit New bearings..
 

crazyjoe101

New Member
Location
London
Ah and as for the amount you tighten the top cap, you should tighten it until there is no play in the fork, but there should also be a nice smooth free feeling to the steering, with no grinding or uneven motion. Ideally the bars should flail around when the bike is lifted.
You can test for play in the fork by applying the front brake and attepting to push the bike back and forth (there will always be flex, but look for a rattle) or by picking the bike up and wiggling the fork.
As others have said, this will not be possible if the bearings are ruined.
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
Important that the bung is firmly expanded in the steerer tube before you start trying to preload. If it isn't all you will be doing is pulling the bung up inside the steerer tube. Make sure the inside of the steerer is really clean and free from grease. I have used Ritchey Liquid Torque when I had a problem with a 'slippery' bung in a carbon steerer tube, and also on the stem/steerer interface. Also, if the top of your steerer tube is not cut accurately square it will lead to problems keeping the forks properly tight.
 

young Ed

Veteran
An FSA compression plug is completely useless. Get a BBB power plug from chain reaction. 15.95, problem sorted
could we have a link, i'm struggling to find this super top cap
and what exactly makes it so super and superior?
Cheers Ed
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
I assume he meant one of these.
I haven't used this particular one but the longer the area of contact the better as it spreads the load within the steerer tube. It is relatively easy to damage a carbon steerer by overtightening a (short) bung.
 
OP
OP
David5416

David5416

Über Member
Thank for all the replies , I have done everything everybody has suggested but still got play in them. I could take the bike back to Leisure lakes in Bury to let them sort it but wanted to be able to do a bit of maintenance myself and not lose the bike for a while.
I am sure i have got everything correct, the only thing bothering me is that when i stripped the fork down to sort it the bottom washer/race that sits at the bottom of the fork and the bottom bearing does not 100 percent fit together i.e the bearing drop over the little lip. Would this make a difference or is this how it should be ??
 

Levo-Lon

Guru
Sounds like the bearing has faied if im understanding you description ?

Should be flush but if the race and inner bearing cage is failing you will need new..

pop it to the lbs as its a quick fix if they have a bearing handy..
 
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