Help needed rear hub

[potsy]

Hi,I have a problem with the rear wheel (Shimano RS10) have cleaned and re-greased the ballbearings put it all back together and it feels like it is 'sticking' a bit ie-not spinning freely like the front one.
Have adjusted it to get it spinning freely but then there is play in the hub,tighten up slightly and the wheel doesn't spin very well again.
Please help,I'm sure this is why my recent journeys have felt like hard work.

 

[fossyant]

Adjust so slight play in hub when off the bike

Play is then take up when you tighten the QR.

You can test this by grabbing the rim when fitted and wiggling it.

 

[fossyant]

Must go, we are on the track in an hour !

 

[potsy]

Adjust so slight play in hub when off the bike

Play is then take up when you tighten the QR.

You can test this by grabbing the rim when fitted and wiggling it.

Have fun.

This is what I've done but still seems 'sticky' would the type of grease cause any issues? The stuff I've used is some I found in the toolbox,looks an orangey/brown colour,Shell A.P.L.
How should the rear compare to the front in terms of number of revolutions before it stops?
At the minute mine is about 3 times as many on front as back for same force of spin

 

[Cubist]

This can be very frustrating! First, did you check all the bearings were in good condition before you replaced them? Secondly, did you clean and polish or at least make sure there were no scores or imperfections in the bearing cups? The type of grease is not all that important, as long as it was clean and fresh (ish)

You may now be experiencing one of several things . Either the bearing resisitance is down to the new grease, and it should ease off after a few rides, or:

you need to check that you tightened the locknut to the cone nut on the non-adjust side (depends on which way you have to remove the axle) and that that is not moving, then you need to make sure you lock the locknut on the adjusting side so that there is a small amount of play with the wheel in your hand. As you put the wheel on your bike the QRs or wheelnuts will compress the axle and take up the slack. Also, if you don't absolutely lock the locknut they will tighten the cone nut themselves as you put the wheel back on.

Obviously the way to tell is to spin the wheel in your hand, and check that there is a fraction of play. Put the wheel on spin it, but also try to move it by pressing on the rim. You shouldn't be able to feel any play, but neither should it tighten up too much. If it has, slacken off the adjust side until it spins freely.

Just as a daft question, have you recentred the brakes?

 

[potsy]

Thanks for that Cubist,have sort of got my head round it now,think it is just a case of trial and error with very small increments of adjustment til I get it spot on.
Was struggling earlier so much that I somehow managed to put a spacer on the wrong side and couldn't work out why the wheel was off centre in the frame

once I'd worked that one out I could get back to adjusting it.

If we say the cassette side is the none adjust side,does the locknut on this side have to be tight?
At the minute it is hand-tight only and the wheel is spinning lovely,if I tighten it then the wheel stops again,guess I need to get this side tight then loosen the QR side?

Right having a rest now and will finish it tomorrow,in car for a few days anyway next week.

 

[accountantpete]

As the others have said but I would add that if the wheel is spinning smoothly and does not sound gritty then everything should be fine.

The ease of spinning does depend in part on how much grease you have put on the bearings and this will free itself up with usage.

Also the rear wheel will spin a bit less freely than the front due to the friction from the pawls/hub interaction - 1/3rd is about right.

Like Fossyant I also leave a little play in the hub off the bike and this is taken up by tightening the QR.

 

[briank]

"If we say the cassette side is the none adjust side,does the locknut on this side have to be tight?
At the minute it is hand-tight only and the wheel is spinning lovely,if I tighten it then the wheel stops again,guess I need to get this side tight then loosen the QR side?"



Yes, tighten that lock nut fully then do your adjusting from the non-drive side. Just as tightening nuts or quick-releases holding the wheel into the frame affects the adjustment of the bearing, so does tightening the lock nut. You need to adjust the cone so there's a certain amount of play, tighten the lock nut - which will reduce the play - then put the wheel into the frame - which will reduce the play again.


Trial and error I'm afraid!


It may just be that your front cups and cones are less perfectly shaped: in all but the most expensive hubs, machining variations will mean some bearings are a little better than others. However, if there's a big difference in smoothness and spin it's more likely that you rear hub has allowed a little damp in and is slightly pitted. That can also happen - and surprisingly often does if the hub is over-tightened during initial assembly.


Always better to be a little loose than a little tight!

 

[potsy]

Thanks Brian,thought that would be the case but got in such a flap earlier I have decided to have another go tomorrow now that I have a better idea of what I'm doing.
I suspect I didn't put it back correctly last time, I tried servicing it the other week,not quite run right since

Have put on a new BB,just need to re-fit chain and mudguard,and have another go at the hub

 

[rusty bearing]

Just a thought but if you find that when hold the wheel by the axle ends and spin it, if it feels tight at one point in the revolution check for a bent axle. Hope that makes sense.