Help needed please.

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Hicky

Guru
I've just got a Raleigh Mixte for my other half....amongst other things the 27 1/4 wheels are shot.

What is the better option;
A, find some 27 1/4 replacements
B, try and coldset the frame for 700 hubs?

I've stripped the bb and crank also knackered, can't get the forks out....I'm about to tap the stem.
I need new cranks/pedals/wheels/gearing.......apart from "look on ebay" can someone help pls.....thanks
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Get some 700c rims laced to the hubs of the 27inch wheels if the brake drop will allow it.
 

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
Ok maybe some helpful tips.


1 a new bb, is it just the actual crank or are the cups knackered as well. If it's just the spindle you can get new ones from here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170703381004

2. What crankset is currently on and what is actually wrong with them (guessing stripped threads). I have some right hand cranks if they possibly match and your left one is good.

3 stuck stem. Usually when they are stuck you can get them released if you can stop any movement of the front forks. If your wheels are shot then I suggest using 2 long pieces of wood in between forks and wheels (both front and back). This allows more rotational force using the handlebars. All you are trying to do is break any spot welds between the alloy and steel forks due to corrosion. If it twists, then it will come out. If you try and knock the stem down and the expander isn't loose you will wedge the stem tighter.
 
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Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
4. For your front and rear derallieur depends on what you really want. If you want new and cheap the shimano tourney stuff will be fine although the front derallieur may be for larger modern tubed bikes, just check before you buy.

5 wheels, even cheap wheels are semi expensive compared to the rest. I've just bought a rear today for £28 including delivery but I've seen very cheap sets on eBay fir about £45 plus delivery. Examples are

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191002127498

http://www.parkersofbolton.co.uk/p-...9&cadevice=t&gclid=CLiaw63p7b8CFc3HtAodI24Ahg

7 cold setting can be done easily although you can sometimes get away with a small amount of play.

8 brakes may be troublesome if you need to get nutted versions of new double pivot brakes. I have seen them I think on tesco website but can't remember who made them. Reach may be troublesome as well. Last point which is a problem I've run into on a ladies bike is that you can't change the brake adjuster and cable holder round which leads to problems with cable routing. I haven't fixed mine yet but can send pictures to show what I mean if you need.

Hope this helps a little
 
OP
OP
Hicky

Hicky

Guru
Ok, released the forks.....the crank and bottom bracket are covered with surface rust, I've ruined the bolt thread that held the crank on(cotter pin?so they need replacing), I dont think autosol would restore it sufficiently but I'll give it a try....this is for the G/F so shininess is an issue.
I'm happy to keep a single on the front and the rear be whatever gearing......
If I get a 700 or relace the existing hubs onto 700's then I suppose I can crackon with modern rear and use a band on shifter either on the stem or bar end.
Brakes, I know alongha(sp?) do a long reach for 700's.

Thanks for all the help.....final question, is the cups on the headtube screwin or press fit....before I start hammering away?
 

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
Glad you got the forks out.

Cups are press fit so can be problematic to get out. I've seen fancy tools but I tend to tap the out using a length of flat bar so I get 2 points of contact. Gentle coaxing is what you need and move the flat bar round so it comes out evenly.

If it's only surface rust then it should come up good. If there's pitting or deeper rust then that's more problematic. The way I clean my stuff is to use a brass wire brush to get majority of rust off. Then use a Brillo pad to clean a little deeper. Then using the soapy water from Brillo pad use aluminium cooking foil to rub all over. This is a great way of helping to flatten any rough spots and help the light reflect off the surface. Finally use autosolv or equivalent give final polish.

If that fails then you can buy new crankset of eBay. Think this one looks fairly decent http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251553097234 but you will need to change your spindle.

Post some pictures so we can see how it's coming along.
 
OP
OP
Hicky

Hicky

Guru
Ah, seen.
I've got a donor bike(trek 7.3) that has a deore groupset I can nick....would a square taper fit the old BB cups? If so that solves quite alot, however the bling factor would help with that crank!
I've coldset the forks already for 700....brute force sorted it, the rear triangle I'm about to use some studding and a few nuts to open it out then check for square as per sheldon.
The powdercoat choice is glittery purple..... :sad:
 

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
When you take out the old cottered shaft compare it to the square taper shaft if they are similar (within a couple of mm) then its a straight swap, if not then a cycle shop should be able to match one up easily, I'd fit 2 new bearing races while its apart. 1 tip a smaller bike shop is best for this type of project as they are likely to be enthusiasts whereas bigger shops generally have staff.
 
OP
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Hicky

Hicky

Guru
Right , that's the frame dropped off at the powdercoaters, lilac non glittery.....
Looking for bar end shifters for a triple 8 speed deore(8 speed ultegra?)....I'm going to polish the weinmann suicide levers and brakes and see if they fit, if not then I'll have to look at another idea.
 
OP
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Hicky

Hicky

Guru
Ok the frame is powdercoated now.....I'm replacing the headset and I'm assuming its a 1 inch?
The internal Dia of the crown race is 27mm....
 
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