Help me get my freehub off
- Thread starter User
- Start date
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accountantpete
OAP
If you can't adjust the cones on the drive side (freehub side) then presumably you can from the non-drive side.
This will save taking the freehub off.
This will save taking the freehub off.
RecordAceFromNew
Swinging Member
- Location
- West London
Am I right the photo is not showing the state you are describing, since I don't think I can see the "round nut with two flats on"?
If you were able to loosen the top locknut there should only be limited traction between any other nut below and the hollow axle, i.e. you should be able to use a pair of pliers or even your fingers to loosen the next nut while holding on to the locknut on the other end. The threading you can see on the freehub is for tightening the cassette lock ring, ignore that.
If that is not possible for whatever reason, and if a standard 6 sided locknut and a nut with two flats are exposed on the other side, you can use a cone spanner (for the two flats) and a normal spanner (for the 6 sided nut) to loosen the locknut that side. Once the locknut is loosen the next nut should loosen easily.
Assuming this is the same hub/wheel you were talking about in the other thread, are you sure this is not a standard cup and cone bearing hub (as opposed to cassette sealed bearing hub)? Can't be 100% sure yet, but that's what it looks like to me. Park has a good guide on how to service cup and cone hub, for which you will need two suitably sized cone spanners to set up correctly.
If you were able to loosen the top locknut there should only be limited traction between any other nut below and the hollow axle, i.e. you should be able to use a pair of pliers or even your fingers to loosen the next nut while holding on to the locknut on the other end. The threading you can see on the freehub is for tightening the cassette lock ring, ignore that.
If that is not possible for whatever reason, and if a standard 6 sided locknut and a nut with two flats are exposed on the other side, you can use a cone spanner (for the two flats) and a normal spanner (for the 6 sided nut) to loosen the locknut that side. Once the locknut is loosen the next nut should loosen easily.
Assuming this is the same hub/wheel you were talking about in the other thread, are you sure this is not a standard cup and cone bearing hub (as opposed to cassette sealed bearing hub)? Can't be 100% sure yet, but that's what it looks like to me. Park has a good guide on how to service cup and cone hub, for which you will need two suitably sized cone spanners to set up correctly.
R600
Über Member
- Location
- North Scotland
undo the lock nut on the non drive side then remove spacer and cone pull through the axle from the drive side. if you want to remove freehub insert 10mm allan key and slacken anti clockwise. and when your doing this regreese the hubs. easy
simon.r
Person
- Location
- Nottingham
This^. You don't need to remove the freewheel to grease / adjust the bearings. It just makes the drive side bearings easier to get at.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Is this a Shimano hub - looks like one - I never touch the drive side other than to ensure the lock nuts are dead tight. Undo non drive side as above and push axle out.
Then get a 10mm allen key in to remove the freehub.
Then get a 10mm allen key in to remove the freehub.
Hawk
Veteran
- Location
- Glasgow Southside
Aye, the sizes vary. My TriCross freehub needed a 12mm allen key shoved in the non-drive side to remove it. Had to order one in specifically for it!
subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
[QUOTE 1806972, member: 45"]Well thanks for your help everyone. I've just done the job, and very satisfying it was too.
The drive-side lock nut had come loose. I took the hub apart via the non-drive side, cleaned everything up and regreased, then reassembled. I also took the freehub off to see how it went together, and cleaned and regreased that as well.
Now I've got a lovely smooth wheel to put back on the bike tomorrow. I suspect that I might have to fettle the gears a little as the cassette may not be in exactly the same position on the axle.[/quote]
and thats how it starts
The drive-side lock nut had come loose. I took the hub apart via the non-drive side, cleaned everything up and regreased, then reassembled. I also took the freehub off to see how it went together, and cleaned and regreased that as well.
Now I've got a lovely smooth wheel to put back on the bike tomorrow. I suspect that I might have to fettle the gears a little as the cassette may not be in exactly the same position on the axle.[/quote]
and thats how it starts
Old Plodder
Living at the top of a steep 2 mile climb
- Location
- Surrey/Hants border
Congrats User, you are now a mechanic.
