Help, I've dropped by bearings

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
Well all was going well till I got to the rear hub. Noticed that it wasn't freewheeling so I decided to take it apart. What I wasn't expecting was the cascade of small bearings scattering everywhere. That's not my real problem.

When I look at the hub just around where the bottom bearings go are 3 brass pivots and 3 fine wires. Now I'm guessing the fine wire goes inside the pivot, but I'm already thinking this is going to be difficult to get everything back together.

So if anyone has experience or bright ideas I'm all ears.

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    113.7 KB · Views: 41
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    149.4 KB · Views: 37

John the Canuck

..a long way from somewhere called Home..
just been through this exercise - as a learning experience only
i bought a new 6speed FW and just screwed it on.......:laugh::laugh:

anyway if you want a go...buy 72pack of 1/8 bearings

the hub
the fine wires go into small grooves on the inside face of each pawl to flick them outwards
place cogs upside down
put balls into bottom race with a 'sticky' grease such as Rock&Roll Web Grease
fill the race with a gap of about 3 balls
wfs-10-06-2014-18-50-01-100_2874_zps9382154e.jpg
wiggle the hub into the cogs, slightly rotating it anti-clock so the pawls are allowed to mesh into the teeth

turn the assembly over - holding in the hub..!!
add grease - add balls
add the shims you removed with the tabbed shim on top
screw in the lockring - anticlockwise till no play

quite satisfying but you still end up with a OLD OLD freewheel
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

mine is up for sale on RetroBike....£15 delivered......:whistle:
 
Last edited:

John the Canuck

..a long way from somewhere called Home..
hope you're not confused

in your pic
the wire spring at 6o/clock goes round clockwise and just notches into the groove which you can see on the inside face of the pawl at 10o/clock

it's not a difficult job - have fun..!

john
 
Slightly OT

Have you had a problem with the chain unshipping?

The spokes show damage typical of this

In particular the spoke at between 6 o'clock and 7 o'clock shows a lot of damage

I suspect most of these spokes will fail shortly, and it may be worth replacing these whilst the hub is dismantled
 

John the Canuck

..a long way from somewhere called Home..
Slightly OT

Have you had a problem with the chain unshipping?......................

were you talking about my pic in post #2 rather than the OP..?
if so............
bought the wheels on eBay
didn't see the damage right away till I removed the FW to service
and yes - all 9 damaged spokes were replaced - one by one - and re-trued after each one

good heads-up though....:thumbsup:
 

sittingbull

Veteran
Location
South Liverpool
and yes - all 9 damaged spokes were replaced - one by one - and re-trued after each one
You must have the knack. So far I've failed miserably to replace individual spokes on the rear wheel :sad: (that's without disturbing those adjacent).

I usually loosen (or even remove from the nipple) at least 3 or 4 so I can feed in a single replacement. I think I would have replaced all 9 at once.
 

John the Canuck

..a long way from somewhere called Home..
You must have the knack. So far I've failed miserably to replace individual spokes on the rear wheel :sad: (that's without disturbing those adjacent).
I usually loosen (or even remove from the nipple) at least 3 or 4 so I can feed in a single replacement. I think I would have replaced all 9 at once.

remove nipple and pull out/bend damaged spoke
feed new in through hub
ok here's the fiddleeeee bit - flex the spoke in the same plane as the wheel under any adjacent spokes depending on your lace pattern
- with the convex side on the outside of a line between the hub hole and the spoke hole
in other words - the position of least bend
once installed you may have to straighten/bend the spoke a bit. but the tension will pull it straight

true the rim ... i used a brake block as a lateral guide and get +/- 0.5mm easy
NEVER take out or loosen more than 1 if possible - the rim will be a swine to get true again
 

midlife

Guru
That hub looks like a Nuovo Tipo and deserves a new freewheel :smile: Some pawls just stick out so far you need to keep them flat against the block so the cogs will go on, vertical slivers of cardboard will do..............I was taught to wrap cotton around and pull it out sideways.

Best of luck.........

Shaun
 
Top Bottom