gripshift very stiff

[ankaradan]

I have an old (18yr) Kona MTB, still with the original gripshift changers. Recently , I've noticed that the rear change is getting very stiff when changing back to low gears (i.e moving up the cassette from 11 tooth -> 28 tooth); so much so that it can be impossible to change with winter gloves on.
The rear dereilleur is the original XT mechanism, though the cassette is a recently fitted 8-speed SRAM.
Can this be fixed, or do I need to replace the shifters, and how much of a job is this?

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Release the cable at the rear mech, free a couple of inches of inner at the shifter and try the shifter again. If it remains stiff then it is the shifter. If not it is most likely worn or gunged up cabling - which you can tell by pulling/pushing the inner through the housing to feel for resistance.

 

[ankaradan]

Release the cable at the rear mech, free a couple of inches of inner at the shifter and try the shifter again. If it remains stiff then it is the shifter. If not it is most likely worn or gunged up cabling - which you can tell by pulling/pushing the inner through the housing to feel for resistance.

Thanks, I'll try that. I'm hoping its not the shifter, as I'm not sure what the replacement model would be.

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

I found I had water in the cables on my tourer when this happened (last year) and in the colder weather it was freezing leaving me with issues changing gear in one direction only. Is it any better after the bike has been somewhere warm overnight?

Edit: cause of water in the cables was a small previously unnoticed hole, in the cable sheath which also had to be replaced

 

[HovR]

My bet is on it needing new cables. I've seen this before so many times with grip shifters, where the massive amount of friction in old cables makes it near impossible to actually twist the shifter.

New cables (both inner and outer) and perhaps a squirt of GT85 and it should be good as new.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Thanks, I'll try that. I'm hoping its not the shifter, as I'm not sure what the replacement model would be.

If any is needed assuming it is 8 speed for the rear (since you said you have an 8 speed sram cassette) and XT rear mech and if you want gripshift this will work. There are other choices too.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Also worth noting that most grip shifts have plastic innards so shouldn't be oiled or greased. A silicone based lubricant may ease things off.

 

[Tim Hall]

Another vote for gunged/rusted/shredded cable, having just replaced cable and outer on one of my bikes for the same reason.
You _shouldn't_ have to take the shifter apart to do so, but if you do have to, pull it off the bars first and it should all slide apart easily.

(Why aren't all gear cables stainlesss? What's the point of galvanised cables?)

 

[ankaradan]

On close inspection the little spare cable at the derailleur is so frayed, I daren't slacken it off, I would never be able to thread it back again. I'll try to fit new cables. However, I'd like to replace the outer at the same time, as this seems to be the problem, but the pieces of outer cable look pretty specific to this frame; one from the shifter to a brazing on the top tube, and one from a brazing on the chain stay to the derailleur. Ideas???

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

I expect when you release the cable you will find that the outer cable is not specific to the frame - it usually won't move until the inner cable is loose and that it simply slots into a slot on the frame which can make it look that way... if you can post a picture though, myself or others can let you know from our experience just to be sure.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

On close inspection the little spare cable at the derailleur is so frayed, I daren't slacken it off, I would never be able to thread it back again. I'll try to fit new cables. However, I'd like to replace the outer at the same time, as this seems to be the problem, but the pieces of outer cable look pretty specific to this frame; one from the shifter to a brazing on the top tube, and one from a brazing on the chain stay to the derailleur. Ideas???

What you have is normal. One buys inners as well as housings and cut them to size (decent cable cutter recommended for all bike cabling diy) depending on lengths required between various parts and/or cable stops. Often you can copy the lengths of what you remove.

 

[ankaradan]

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/sram/mtb-road-gear-cable-kit-ec045637

This seems rather expensive for a couple of 25cm lengths of plastic housing!

 

[compo]

Asda do a complete cable kit, inners and outers, brakes and gears for £4, and it is complete with ferrules and cable end crimps. I have used them on different bikes without any issues, including one with grip shifts.

 

[ankaradan]

Asda do a complete cable kit, inners and outers, brakes and gears for £4, and it is complete with ferrules and cable end crimps. I have used them on different bikes without any issues, including one with grip shifts.

Thanks....but the nearest Asda is about 3000 miles away. Whenever, I need any spares, I have to trawl round the e-bike shops, pay loads for the postage to get parts here, and then wait about two weeks for the postman.

 

[HovR]

Here's some reasonably cheap but quality cables that I use, assuming Wiggle ship to your location! Not sure if this comes with ferrules, as mine from Halfords did but a reviewer here claims they don't.. Might want to order some to be sure.

The product I've linked you to is enough for one derailleur, so if you want to replace both front and rear gears then you'll need two.