Fulcrum 3 Hub Service

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Hi Folks,

I have a set of Fulcrum 3's. The front wheel hub has started to make a grating noise which I assume is the sign of a bearing issue. I have downloaded the maintenance guide on how to overhaul the hub but for the life of me cannot get the axle to push out after removing the plastic covers and adjusting screw. Could I tap it with a mallet to ease it on its way ? On reading through the guide they make reference to special tools that are needed to work on the hub. Would I be just safer bringing them to my LBS or is there an easy ( '' fool proof '' in my case ) method to overhaul the hubs. Any help appreciated. Regards
 
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User6179

Guest
Allen key fitment inside spindle !?
 

Cheers Ffoeg.

Watched that video. The bit at 01:30 is where I can't get past. The axle simply won't push out. It seems to be stuck. I have a feeling that a sharp strike with a mallet will be the only way to further the repair. My fear is that it doesn't move and destroys the wheel as they are good wheels. Thanks for the help anyway bro :okay:
 
D

Deleted member 23692

Guest
When I changed the bearings in my Fulcrum 4s, I'm sure I remember the axel needing a bit of 'persuasion' to come out. Nothing too harsh, just a frim tap with a small block of wood akin to a ketchup bottle slap.
... and don't buy any bearing till you get the old ones out - two different size cartridges were listed for mine, and the ones I had fitted were nether of them.

This place sorted me out with some super smooth ceramic hybrids - http://www.airebearings.co.uk/Bike-bearings.php?sid=4&Title=Headset bearings
 
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Location
Loch side.
A smart smack with a mallet will do the trick. Find a plastic mallet, not wood, not rubber. Then, hold the wheel in your left hand (if you are normal-handed) with your fingers over the hub as if you are holding an octupus' head with the tentacles radiating out. Now smack the axle had with the mallet in your right hand. Don't tap tap tap. Smack!.
If that doesn't work, you may have to find a copper hammer, but hopefully that will do the trick. A wooden mallet or wooden block looses too much energy when hammering. A nylon-headed mallet with some oomph behind it will do the trick.
 
There is a little spacer just after the lock nut (the one with the very small allen key fitting).

The spacer does not screw on the thread but rather is a friction fit - it enables the preload by the locknut so sits between the locknut and the outer bearing race that you see in the video.

You need to gently prise this off over the threaded part of the axle using a small flat bladed screwdriver - then the axle pulls through easily.

The video doesn't show this bit!
 
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Cheers guys. Gonna give it another go this morning before the rugby starts. When replacing the bearings would I have to use bearing rings as per diagram

http://www.i-ride.co.uk/4-R1-007-4-HB-RE023-ball-bearing-ring-4pcs.aspx


or could I use loose bearings. Always thought loose bearings gave a better feel
 
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The inner bearing race is not very wide and the seal fits very close to the bearings so it will be very difficult to fit the seal without dislodging the bearings.
 
Location
Loch side.
The inner bearing race is not very wide and the seal fits very close to the bearings so it will be very difficult to fit the seal without dislodging the bearings.
Thanks for the advice Pete
It makes life easier if you use the bearing retainer. There is no difference in the feel. If you only have new loose balls, fit them into the old retainer.
Thanks Yellow saddle. Good advice as always
 
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