FSA chainset

[oliglynn]

Thinking of replacing my creaking knackered up tiagra 9sp chainset on the Allez for a Full Speed Ahead one - [url="http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=41434"]FSA SLK Carbon [/url]and I understand it'll require a new BB - [url="http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2962"]FSA Isis BB[/url]



Does anyone know if this will fit my bike (will the BB fit and will it be lined up for use with Tiagra front deraileur?) - I have an external BB bottom bracket at the mo (Shimano)

Also, does anyone have any good or bad experiences related to this kit?

 

[Smokin Joe]

Yes, it will fit.

Chainsets are generic, you can use any brand with any groupset.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Thinking of replacing my creaking knackered up tiagra 9sp chainset on the Allez for a Full Speed Ahead one - FSA SLK Carbon and I understand it'll require a new BB - FSA Isis BB



Does anyone know if this will fit my bike (will the BB fit and will it be lined up for use with Tiagra front deraileur?) - I have an external BB bottom bracket at the mo (Shimano)

Also, does anyone have any good or bad experiences related to this kit?

As SJ said yes. The only thing you need to ensure is that the tooth count is the same as the one being replaced or you may need a new front mech.

 

[HLaB]

I don't know if this is a uniform opinion of lbs but my mate took his FSA cranks in lately (there was a fair bit of play in them in a relatively short period of time) and the mechanic wasn't impressed with them or any other generic copies, he reckoned that Shimano have patented and held back the details that'd make them good. However I pointed out that I havent ever had a problem with my FSA cranks in over 8000miles.

 

[oliglynn]

Tooth count is identical - so no issues there - my shimano tiagra chainset has been very problematic from the start - I have an ominous creaking coming from the splined interface for the non-drive-side crank arm which i've never been able to fix, had it coming loose until I threadlocked and overtightened the bolts. Anything that works without creaking or falling apart is good for me, and i've lost faith in shimano!

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Tooth count is identical - so no issues there - my shimano tiagra chainset has been very problematic from the start - I have an ominous creaking coming from the splined interface for the non-drive-side crank arm which i've never been able to fix, had it coming loose until I threadlocked and overtightened the bolts. Anything that works without creaking or falling apart is good for me, and i've lost faith in shimano!

You may have had a Friday afternoon build Most Shimano stuff is the business. That said I have not heard much bad said about FSA either.

 

[gaz]

I don't know if this is a uniform opinion of lbs but my mate took his FSA cranks in lately (there was a fair bit of play in them in a relatively short period of time) and the mechanic wasn't impressed with them or any other generic copies, he reckoned that Shimano have patented and held back the details that'd make them good. However I pointed out that I havent ever had a problem with my FSA cranks in over 8000miles.

I've not had any issues with my FSA cranks in over 6,000 miles.

 

[HLaB]

I've not had any issues with my FSA cranks in over 6,000 miles.

Yeah, it surprised me a bit too, my FSA cranks have now done nearly 9,000 miles no problem.

 

[e-rider]

Thinking of replacing my creaking knackered up tiagra 9sp chainset on the Allez for a Full Speed Ahead one - FSA SLK Carbon and I understand it'll require a new BB - FSA Isis BB



Does anyone know if this will fit my bike (will the BB fit and will it be lined up for use with Tiagra front deraileur?) - I have an external BB bottom bracket at the mo (Shimano)

Also, does anyone have any good or bad experiences related to this kit?

This chainset is going cheap (I'm guessing) because it uses the old ISIS BB design which is crap compared to outboard bearings such as Hollowtech II, MEGAEXO (FSA) or the even newer BB30 design.

You will be stepping back in time if you are already using Shimano Hollowtech II kit! You will not need a new front mech but you will probably need to adjust both front and rear mechs because the chainline will probably be slightly different.

There is a reason why CRC can't sell these!!! You can buy new Shimano 105 chainsets complete with BB cups from Merlin Cycles for £75 (from £180). If you are set on Carbon cranks then you will need to spend more money.

DON'T BUY ISIS BB unless you're the kind of guy who would buy a MK3 Ford Escort from 1989 as a modern family car!!!

 

[gwhite]

This chainset is going cheap (I'm guessing) because it uses the old ISIS BB design which is crap compared to outboard bearings such as Hollowtech II, MEGAEXO (FSA) or the even newer BB30 design.



DON'T BUY ISIS BB unless you're the kind of guy who would buy a MK3 Ford Escort from 1989 as a modern family car!!!

Having just replaced a pair of FSA Megaexo (costing £44.50) bearings with just a 1000 miles on them, I can't agree with you. In fact it's becoming clear that outboard bearings are seriously deficient in durability when compared to the sealed BB. Not surprising really when you consider the are ideally placed to gather all the muck and spray from the front wheel. Moreover, to have a reasonable span of life, outboard bearings require the BB shell to be faced and manufacturers are not always doing this. I've just had to face the BB shell on a Ridley which is only a year old which had these bearings fitted despite having the faces painted over.
What we have here is an innovation which saves a few grams and which may serve the manufacturers interests but may not be in the interest of the consumer.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Having just replaced a pair of FSA Megaexo (costing £44.50) bearings with just a 1000 miles on them, I can't agree with you. In fact it's becoming clear that outboard bearings are seriously deficient in durability when compared to the sealed BB. Not surprising really when you consider the are ideally placed to gather all the muck and spray from the front wheel. Moreover, to have a reasonable span of life, outboard bearings require the BB shell to be faced and manufacturers are not always doing this. I've just had to face the BB shell on a Ridley which is only a year old which had these bearings fitted despite having the faces painted over.
What we have here is an innovation which saves a few grams and which may serve the manufacturers interests but may not be in the interest of the consumer.

I am in agreement. When I can afford it I wand the Hollowtech II BB on my Cube replaced with a "old fashioned tapered BB"

 

[Smokin Joe]

Having just replaced a pair of FSA Megaexo (costing £44.50) bearings with just a 1000 miles on them, I can't agree with you. In fact it's becoming clear that outboard bearings are seriously deficient in durability when compared to the sealed BB. Not surprising really when you consider the are ideally placed to gather all the muck and spray from the front wheel. Moreover, to have a reasonable span of life, outboard bearings require the BB shell to be faced and manufacturers are not always doing this. I've just had to face the BB shell on a Ridley which is only a year old which had these bearings fitted despite having the faces painted over.
What we have here is an innovation which saves a few grams and which may serve the manufacturers interests but may not be in the interest of the consumer.

No more than standard bb cartridges. The only way muck can get into either system is past the axle seals and having those further apart by a few cm makes no difference. In fact they will take less of a direct hit from front wheel spray than square taper sets.

Whatever design fault causes premature wear on outboard bearings is not down to location of the seals, more likely because manufacturers have been too tight to spend a few extra pence on using self-centering bearings (100 year old technology) so BB shell facing does not matter.

 

[Glover Fan]

I noticed the other day that a bolt had fallen out of my FSA Gossamer chainset. One of the 5 bolts that attach the large chainring to the small chainring. I hadn't touched the bolts since new so I am a bit spooked!

Are these bolts a generic size?