Free hub body

[twentysix by twentyfive]

My free wheel is making a nasty clunk at times. I reckon the free hub needs to be replaced. I have a Shimano 105 FH5500 hub. The data sheet on the Shimano web site gives the part number as Y-32X-98040. I Googled and found a BikeRadar thread http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=15822509 . The first bit of advice (ie the second post) is wrong as I blindly didn't read further and went ahead and bought that part. After a lot of fidding I realised that the wheel bearings on that new one are set closer to the outside than on the original. This left me unable to fit the cassette lock ring as the dust cap was too far out. Having read that thread further is this the correct one http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/s?q=shimano+r550+8-9sp+freehub+body ? Can anyone confirm this or do you know which freehub body I should go for. I have a 9 speed BTW.

Thanks

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

My free wheel is making a nasty clunk at times. I reckon the free hub needs to be replaced. I have a Shimano 105 FH5500 hub. The data sheet on the Shimano web site gives the part number as Y-32X-98040. I Googled and found a BikeRadar thread http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=15822509 . The first bit of advice (ie the second post) is wrong as I blindly didn't read further and went ahead and bought that part. After a lot of fidding I realised that the wheel bearings on that new one are set closer to the outside than on the original. This left me unable to fit the cassette lock ring as the dust cap was too far out. Having read that thread further is this the correct one http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/s?q=shimano r550 8-9sp freehub body ? Can anyone confirm this or do you know which freehub body I should go for. I have a 9 speed BTW.

Thanks

The WH-R550 (per crc) and your FH5500 don't share the same freehub, so the simple answer is no.

However while you bought the wrong one I think you should still be able to use it. If you look at the parts diagram you will see that there is at least one spacer (item 11) that does nothing but controls the position of the dustcap (7). If the dustcap is causing you grief with the lockring all you need is a thinner spacer to replace 11. All will then be well.

Better than spending another £20.

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

The WH-R550 (per crc) and your FH5500 don't share the same freehub, so the simple answer is no.

However while you bought the wrong one I think you should still be able to use it. If you look at the parts diagram you will see that there is at least one spacer (item 11) that does nothing but controls the position of the dustcap (7). If the dustcap is causing you grief with the lockring all you need is a thinner spacer to replace 11. All will then be well.

Better than spending another £20.

Ah yes - Good Spot

I went down that spacer moving route to find that the cassette is then moved quite a way inboard from the correct chain line. I didn't pursue that as it's at least 2 sprockets worth. If I can't find the correct one (or something a bit closer) I'll maybe go that way tho'

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Ah yes - Good Spot

I went down that spacer moving route to find that the cassette is then moved quite a way inboard from the correct chain line. I didn't pursue that as it's at least 2 sprockets worth. If I can't find the correct one (or something a bit closer) I'll maybe go that way tho'

2 sprockets worth? No there must be some misunderstanding - that can't be right because that spacer is only 3.75mm even if you junk it which is less than one sprocket spacing's worth, let alone you junk it or thin it only because it is too far out due to a different bearing surface position on a different freehub. You see unless you have changed something also on the non-drive side you must keep the non-drive side as before. The best way to ensure the latter is to make sure the non-drive side locknut is 5.5mm away from the end of the axle and keep it there - then if everything is right when you have finished all the cup and cone bearings stacked up (but before tightening them all up because I think you have to tighten the non-drive side last) the drive side locknut should be close to 5.5mm from the end of the axle this side. That way you don't have to worry about any change in rim position in relation to the axle which you must do everything you can to avoid. You would if you move the stack willy nilly along the axle... Don't!

The 5.5mm is THE magical number because the axle is 141mm long, while your distance between locknuts is 130mm.

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

2 sprockets worth? No there must be some misunderstanding - that can't be right because that spacer is only 3.75mm even if you junk it which is less than one sprocket spacing's worth, let alone you junk it or thin it only because it is too far out due to a different bearing surface position on a different freehub. You see unless you have changed something also on the non-drive side you must keep the non-drive side as before. The best way to ensure the latter is to make sure the non-drive side locknut is 5.5mm away from the end of the axle and keep it there - then if everything is right when you have finished all the cup and cone bearings stacked up (but before tightening them all up because I think you have to tighten the non-drive side last) the drive side locknut should be close to 5.5mm from the end of the axle this side. That way you don't have to worry about any change in rim position in relation to the axle which you must do everything you can to avoid. You would if you move the stack willy nilly along the axle... Don't!

The 5.5mm is THE magical number because the axle is 141mm long, while your distance between locknuts is 130mm.

Yes that has to be correct on the sprocket thing. I didn't spend very long on that as I didn't want to go down the route of resetting the rear mech stops. So my 2 sprocket estimate will be incorrect. I noticed the chain fell off between small sprocket and drop out and there was a lot more gap there than before.

The thing about the locking of the drive or non drive side is a problem because I found that the flats on the drive side cone vanish into the freehub body so there is no way of tightening the locknut without moving the cone adjustment as there is no way to hold the cone from rotating. So one ends up with a loose axle. So I did loosen and take off the non drive side so that I could lock the drive side first and then fit the axle. Then its easy to adjust the cone and lock it in place with correct bearing adjustment on the non drive side. However - the 5.5mm length was reset approximately by eye (ie equalish at both ends as far as I could see).. AFAIK as long as an axle end does not stick through either of the dropouts the quick release skewer will work fine and the wheel held securely.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Yes that has to be correct on the sprocket thing. I didn't spend very long on that as I didn't want to go down the route of resetting the rear mech stops. So my 2 sprocket estimate will be incorrect. I noticed the chain fell off between small sprocket and drop out and there was a lot more gap there than before.

The thing about the locking of the drive or non drive side is a problem because I found that the flats on the drive side cone vanish into the freehub body so there is no way of tightening the locknut without moving the cone adjustment as there is no way to hold the cone from rotating. So one ends up with a loose axle. So I did loosen and take off the non drive side so that I could lock the drive side first and then fit the axle. Then its easy to adjust the cone and lock it in place with correct bearing adjustment on the non drive side. However - the 5.5mm length was reset approximately by eye (ie equalish at both ends as far as I could see).. AFAIK as long as an axle end does not stick through either of the dropouts the quick release skewer will work fine and the wheel held securely.

Yep I think we are on the same page. You do have to do the non-drive side last. In case there is any misunderstanding I am mentioning the 5.5mm because if you have to replace the 3.75mm spacer that target on the drive side becomes relevant for the rim to remain centred (because equalising both ends will no longer give you a centred rim).

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

Yep I think we are on the same page. You do have to do the non-drive side last. In case there is any misunderstanding I am mentioning the 5.5mm because if you have to replace the 3.75mm spacer that target on the drive side becomes relevant for the rim to remain centred (because equalising both ends will no longer give you a centred rim).

Ah - yes - got that now.

One does wonder why so many different gizmo specs for the same job tho'. Had to replace a rear mech hanger a little while ago. You wouldn't believe the number of different patterns.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Had to replace a rear mech hanger a little while ago. You wouldn't believe the number of different patterns.

I would. And only one is ever right, and usually the unobtainable or most expensive one.,, I think the P fairy's cousin has something to do with it...

It crossed my mind you could swap spacer 11 and 6 and see whether dustcap still clashes with the lockring. You won't get the 5.5mm on the drive side I think, but it might help inform you what thickness you need to replace 11 or 6 with.

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

I would. And only one is ever right, and usually the unobtainable or most expensive one.,, I think the P fairy's cousin has something to do with it...

It crossed my mind you could swap spacer 11 and 6 and see whether dustcap still clashes with the lockring. You won't get the 5.5mm on the drive side I think, but it might help inform you what thickness you need to replace 11 or 6 with.

That's a good thought. I will give that a go at some stage.
My current fix now is to rob my spare wheel. I'm off on a tour up the West Coast of Scotland soon and I don't want to be stranded a very long way from any sort of bike shop. That'll get me through I'm sure. On my return I shall attack this problem again.

BTW - I asked ChainReaction Cycles if that R550 is compatible. "No", they said, "and nothing they have in stock is either". Ultimately it's looking like a new hub.

 

[compo]

I had the same problem with a previous wheel's freehub. It took nearly 6 months to get one, then I scrapped the wheel and didn't use it. I must put it on Ebay sometime. My existing wheel has a FH-RM66 freehub. After much searching for retailers who actually have the item, rather than simply listing it, I have ordered one from the Czech Republic. I only want the spare so if my existing one fails I am not off the road for weeks whilst trying to obtain a replacement.

I think next time I am going to have a wheel built with a FH-RM30 hub. Cheap as chips and widely available.

 

[accountantpete]

I'm not sure if this helps but Shimano have scrapped the old Interchangeability Chart and now give the info on the tech doc of the freehub - the box on the right.

A stands for directly compatible
B stands for may work with some attention to the spacers etc
No info means there is no alternative but a direct replacement.

In this case there are no alternatives so I think a new hub is needed.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

IME, regarding Shimano freehub interchangeability, Sheldon was correct when he said "virtually all Shimano freehubs are interchangeable".

Today he is still correct, provided we exclude some recent hubs including and above/after the Ultegra 6800, Dura Ace 7800, SLX m678, XT m770 and XTR m970 and related wheels because Shimano has gone for oversized axles for those. Unfortunately for compo his RM66 and indeed the RM30 are different to and were never interchangeable with the majority.

Interchangeable only means it will fit the hub shell fine though. The issues of dustcap/seal compatibility and stack width (i.e. eventual drive side locknut position) have always required case by case specific consideration, but are nearly always manageable. The bottom line is that if you don't want to there is usually no need to junk old hubs and rebuild/replace wheels just because direct replacement freehubs are no longer available. For example, in the case of the OP I believe his only challenge to achieve a perfectly sealed fully working hub/freehub despite having bought an "incompatible freehub" as far as Shimano spec is concerned is to have spacers of different thicknesses and c10mm holes in the middle.

 

[Sheffield_Tiger]

Freeeeee.eee

huu..uuh..hub Body


Nah, doesn't roll off the tongue so easily

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

IME, regarding Shimano freehub interchangeability, Sheldon was correct when he said "virtually all Shimano freehubs are interchangeable".

Today he is still correct, provided we exclude some recent hubs including and above/after the Ultegra 6800, Dura Ace 7800, SLX m678, XT m770 and XTR m970 and related wheels because Shimano has gone for oversized axles for those. Unfortunately for compo his RM66 and indeed the RM30 are different to and were never interchangeable with the majority.

Interchangeable only means it will fit the hub shell fine though. The issues of dustcap/seal compatibility and stack width (i.e. eventual drive side locknut position) have always required case by case specific consideration, but are nearly always manageable. The bottom line is that if you don't want to there is usually no need to junk old hubs and rebuild/replace wheels just because direct replacement freehubs are no longer available. For example, in the case of the OP I believe his only challenge to achieve a perfectly sealed fully working hub/freehub despite having bought an "incompatible freehub" as far as Shimano spec is concerned is to have spacers of different thicknesses and c10mm holes in the middle.

I spent a little while with a micrometer slide gauge and did some comparisons. I worked out the difference between the rear face of the free hubs and the bearing surface and came up with the diagnosis that I need to swap the 3.75 mm spacer for one 1.25 mm wide. If I'm correct that should keep my wheel going for a lot more miles. Not sure where I can get such a spacer but I'll give that some thought when I get back from my trip

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I spent a little while with a micrometer slide gauge and did some comparisons. I worked out the difference between the rear face of the free hubs and the bearing surface and came up with the diagnosis that I need to swap the 3.75 mm spacer for one 1.25 mm wide. If I'm correct that should keep my wheel going for a lot more miles. Not sure where I can get such a spacer but I'll give that some thought when I get back from my trip

Since spacer 6 is very close at 1.2mm, have you tried it in place of the 3.75mm one while ensuring good fit and no clash between freehub and seal/dustcap? I am asking also because if you did get the M565 LX freehub from that Bikeradar/crc link its freehub seal/dustcap system as standard is different to that of your 5500.

If the 1.2mm spacer works you should use it - allowable error and therefore choice of replacement is much greater for replacing 6 (and indeed 5 the locknut) to achieve suitable locknut position.