fitting an ahead stem ????

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naffets

Well-Known Member
Location
sheffield
im swapping stems. im a bit stretched on my new winter bike and fitting a new shorter stem. wonderered if it was as straight forward as it looks or are there any pitfalls???
 

bonj2

Guest
main thing is tighten the compression bolt quite tight but not too tight, before tightening the stem bolts. Make sure the steerer is poking through the right amount, the stack height of the new stem may be different. Adjust by adding/removing spacers if not.
 

RedBike

New Member
Location
Beside the road
Just remember to tighten up the top cap bolt before you tighten up the stem bolts.

(You need to have the top cap pushing down on the stem / spacers not the top of the steerer)
 
OP
OP
naffets

naffets

Well-Known Member
Location
sheffield
so as i understand it make sure the steerer is just poking over the the top bolt of the stem and a spacer between stem and top cap. cheers for the ultra fast response guys
 
It's really important for the longevity of your head bearings that the top-cap compression bolt not be overtightened. If you are using a single alen-key stick the long end in the socket. The difference between not tight enough and too tight can be less than an eighth of a turn.
 
naffets said:
so as i understand it make sure the steerer is just poking over the the top bolt of the stem and a spacer between stem and top cap. cheers for the ultra fast response guys
With all the spacers and the stem in place, the top of the steerer should be 3mm below the top of the stem or the top cap will bottom out on the steerer and you will not be able to get any compression.
 
naffets said:
mickle, so for tightening up how much more than nipping up??

It's nipping up and no more. It should be just not loose. Sometimes that's finger tight and a tiny bit more, sometimes two tiny bits more. But you can't do it just by feel at the bolt. Rocking the bike forwards and backwards on the front brake and tightening the bolt until the knocking stops is the usual way but disc brake caliper rattle and/or suspension fork bushing play can make this difficult. The proper workshop way to do it is with the frame in a workstand, front wheel out and handlebars out so you can spin the steerer and feel the bearing properly.

Trial and error, keep redoing it until you're happy. Just don't, like some people I know, give it an extra half a turn for luck.
 
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