PaulM
Guru
- Location
- Portsmouth, UK
Decided to fit one of these to my Paseo so I could change gear when stationary. Pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dYHQkZOeH3H8fCw02
I got the hub from Practical Cycles and built it into a Mavic XC717 disc rim with double butted spokes. Trying to keep the weight down. I bought a Deore trigger shifter on sale from CRC. Fitting the hub into the vertical dropouts with non-turn washers puzzled me for a while but it does go when you get the axle flat sides oriented properly. However every time I remove the rear wheel I seem to have to realign the brake caliper. I've fitted a Marathon Greenguard tyre to lower the risk of p*ntures. The frame had a cable stop but it took me 3 goes to find a ferrule which fitted but didn't pull through. Connecting the gear cable to the cable anchorage for the indicator chain was not easy. I need a 7mm and an 8mm spanner for the nut and it took 4 attempts to position it accurately to have enough adjustment on the threaded cable connector which connects to the indicator chain.
In use the hub and the gear change have been silent and reliable thus far. However you need to stop pedalling when changing down which doesn't come naturally when you are caught out by an unexpected climb. Changing up can be done whilst pedalling and is quicker. I hoped it would give me confidence in the event of having to stop with little warning. However a downchange is probably equivalent to 2 cogs on the cassette and that isn't usually enough because I often need to come down 4 or 5 cogs to be confident of starting off. It seems a solid piece of kit. I carry around a box spanner anyway which will fit the 15mm axle nuts, but I don't normally carry the 7 and 8mm spanners needed for the cable bolt although these wouldn't be needed to take the wheel off for a puncture.
I am struggling somewhat with the seat recline angle. The photos were taken before I adjusted the ride height angle which further reclined the seat. This was needed to slacken the headtube angle. I will give it some time. The bike is a quality machine but I'm not used to SWB bents with seat angles down this low. I've also removed the front suspension fork to lower the front end and help with mounting and dismounting the bike and that's why I had to adjust the ride hight to compensate.
I have a front rim and hub on order so I can build a front wheel to take a Big Apple tyre. At the moment I'm getting nervous on damaged roads, the 40mm Racer on the front is not sufficient.
I got the hub from Practical Cycles and built it into a Mavic XC717 disc rim with double butted spokes. Trying to keep the weight down. I bought a Deore trigger shifter on sale from CRC. Fitting the hub into the vertical dropouts with non-turn washers puzzled me for a while but it does go when you get the axle flat sides oriented properly. However every time I remove the rear wheel I seem to have to realign the brake caliper. I've fitted a Marathon Greenguard tyre to lower the risk of p*ntures. The frame had a cable stop but it took me 3 goes to find a ferrule which fitted but didn't pull through. Connecting the gear cable to the cable anchorage for the indicator chain was not easy. I need a 7mm and an 8mm spanner for the nut and it took 4 attempts to position it accurately to have enough adjustment on the threaded cable connector which connects to the indicator chain.
In use the hub and the gear change have been silent and reliable thus far. However you need to stop pedalling when changing down which doesn't come naturally when you are caught out by an unexpected climb. Changing up can be done whilst pedalling and is quicker. I hoped it would give me confidence in the event of having to stop with little warning. However a downchange is probably equivalent to 2 cogs on the cassette and that isn't usually enough because I often need to come down 4 or 5 cogs to be confident of starting off. It seems a solid piece of kit. I carry around a box spanner anyway which will fit the 15mm axle nuts, but I don't normally carry the 7 and 8mm spanners needed for the cable bolt although these wouldn't be needed to take the wheel off for a puncture.
I am struggling somewhat with the seat recline angle. The photos were taken before I adjusted the ride height angle which further reclined the seat. This was needed to slacken the headtube angle. I will give it some time. The bike is a quality machine but I'm not used to SWB bents with seat angles down this low. I've also removed the front suspension fork to lower the front end and help with mounting and dismounting the bike and that's why I had to adjust the ride hight to compensate.
I have a front rim and hub on order so I can build a front wheel to take a Big Apple tyre. At the moment I'm getting nervous on damaged roads, the 40mm Racer on the front is not sufficient.
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