Faulty Giant Wheel

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Justinitus

Warning: May Contain Pie
Location
Wiltshire
Evening all

Think I’m posting in the right section! I bought a new Giant Revolt Advanced 2 back in June from an LBS that I’ve used quite a bit.

Since buying the bike I’ve had nothing but trouble with the rear wheel - a Giant PX-2 disc. Ride 20-30 miles and the hub locknuts work loose, resulting in a loose wheel and knocking noises. I could tighten the locknuts myself but as it’s a new bike (and not cheap) I wanted the shop to do it in case the cause was elsewhere. This has happened 4 times now - the last time the shop swapped the wheel out for a brand new one but after 23 miles, this one has failed too. I have PX-2s on my other bike and they’ve been great.

My preferred option is to return the bike for a refund - it’s not my first faulty Giant bike (my Toughroad was replaced) and I’m pretty fed up with the brand now.

However, the shop has come back with an offer to upgrade the wheelset at no cost to me. The wheelset they are suggesting is the lighter Shimano RS370. I’m considering this, but would like the opinion of you guys with more knowledge than me!

The RS370 have bladed spokes. Or maybe partially bladed? Are these better than round?
The RS370 are 24 spoke wheels, the faulty PX-2 wheels are 28 spoke. I’m heavy - 100kg, are these ok?
The RS370 have cup and cone bearings. Not a major issue for me as I can service them, but better or worse than cartridge?

Nutshell, is this a reasonable upgrade do you think, suitable for someone heavy? Anyone got these wheels? Or maybe ask the shop if they can supply Hunt 4 Season wheels?

Thanks in advance
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Does this have a thru axel - is that's what's coming loose. Also is it an allen key (stealth) version or a lever ?

By through axel, the axel slides out completely to remove the wheel.

It might not be tight enough. We had the same issue at weekend with a new MTB and the front 'stealth' axel coming loose.
 
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Justinitus

Justinitus

Warning: May Contain Pie
Location
Wiltshire
It’s thru axle setup, just a screw in axle with built in handle. It’s not that that’s coming loose though it’s the lock nuts on the hub part - specifically the one on the cassette side (sorry should have made that clearer earlier!)

488514
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
If it's the locknut with 'Shimano CS-HG' etc etc written on - the cassette lock nut, they need to be tight. Could be the shop hasn't done up enough. Get yourself a cassette tool and chain whip.

The wheel is fine, it's just not been done up tight.
 
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Justinitus

Justinitus

Warning: May Contain Pie
Location
Wiltshire
Thanks Fossyant but it’s not that either. It’s this nut on the end of the axle. It works itself loose. It’s like a cone nut.

488517
 
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Justinitus

Justinitus

Warning: May Contain Pie
Location
Wiltshire
The lbs did, didn’t work. These wheels appear to be a bad batch, lbs ruled out everything else and suggested changing to different wheels.
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
I guess the only thing left to try is a new set of wheels, if it's an upgrade so much the better.
Frustrating but things do sometimes go wrong.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
On my through axel hubs, the end cap/nut is a press fit and not screwed in. Not difficult to nip the nut up.
 
Location
Loch side.
The RS370 have bladed spokes. Or maybe partially bladed? Are these better than round?
The RS370 are 24 spoke wheels, the faulty PX-2 wheels are 28 spoke. I’m heavy - 100kg, are these ok?
The RS370 have cup and cone bearings. Not a major issue for me as I can service them, but better or worse than cartridge?

Nutshell, is this a reasonable upgrade do you think, suitable for someone heavy? Anyone got these wheels? Or maybe ask the shop if they can supply Hunt 4 Season wheels?

Thanks in advance

Bladed spokes are not better, they're just....bladed. I don't like cleaning between them since they hurt my hands a bit, but that's not an issue.
You are far too heavy for 24-spoke wheels. Get 32 at least, or preferrably, 36.
Cup and cone bearings are fine.
 

Drago

Legendary Member
I'm a fair bit heavier than this chap and do nicely on 28/24 DT Swiss wheels, although prior to that I'd suffered terrible problems with Mavic wheels with a similar spoke count. However, generally speaking, unless the wheels are touted to be suitable for the beefier rider (as this model of DT is supposed to be) I too would stick to 32 as a minimum.
 

overmind

My other bike is a Pinarello
There does not appear to be a lock nut next to the cone nut (in the picture above #5 @ 22:05). How does that work? What stops the cone nut working loose?
 

boydj

Legendary Member
Location
Paisley
Shimano wheels are usually pretty bombproof, but not lightweight. Bladed spokes work fine and are more aero - if you can go fast enough to get any benefit - and cup and cone makes them easy to service. As long as the shop reckons they are ok for your weight, they are a reasonable solution to your wheel problems.
 
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Justinitus

Justinitus

Warning: May Contain Pie
Location
Wiltshire
There does not appear to be a lock nut next to the cone nut (in the picture above #5 @ 22:05). How does that work? What stops the cone nut working loose?

I think you’re right but that’s the design, and explains why it keeps working loose.
 
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Justinitus

Justinitus

Warning: May Contain Pie
Location
Wiltshire
Thanks for all your replies everyone. Just spoke with a friend who works for a bike component distributor and he rated the Shimano wheelset as good - but not durable for a heavy rider. He suggested Hunt or a handbuilt wheelset so I think I’m going to ask the shop if they can supply some Hunt wheels instead.

If they can’t I’m going to return the bike.
 
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