External Bearing Crankset Fitting

[MacB]

So, was getting a bit of a tick/click once per revolution of cranks, got home and found play in the crank arms. But it's a two piece design(Tiagra) and the left crank has a plastic crank bolt with a funny fitting, needless to say I had nothing that fit. Went along to LBS and they sorted but had to loosen off the crank arm allen bolts before they could turn the plastic fitting. We couldn't get rid of the play using the plastic bolt so used an allen key crank bolt with a washer to draw the crank on far enough. Then tightened the crank arm, removed the crank bolt and refitted the plastic thingy just finger tight.

I'm just not sure as this is my first 2 piece crankset and also they don't sell a tool that will remove the plastic thingy. Any tips, recommendations or suggestions welcome

 

[Moodyman]

You need a hollowtech tool Mac.

My bike has external bottom bracket due to hub gears and I took it into Halfords last night to get the chain adjusted.

This is what they used:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_525711_langId_-1_categoryId_242558

The plastic bit if for the crank, the long handle bit is for the bottom bracket

 

[MacB]

You need a hollowtech tool Mac.

My bike has external bottom bracket due to hub gears and I took it into Halfords last night to get the chain adjusted.

This is what they used:

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_242558

The plastic bit if for the crank, the long handle bit is for the bottom bracket

Darn, trying to avoid buying that as this is the crankset in use with the Forward Components mini EBB which came with its own tool for installation of the cups. I'm sticking with square taper on the other bikes so I'm only actually lacking the little plastic bit, £14 for that is a bit steep. I don't suppose I can get an alternate to the plastic crank bolt that takes a regular allen key, can I?

 

[frank9755]

Darn, trying to avoid buying that as this is the crankset in use with the Forward Components mini EBB which came with its own tool for installation of the cups. I'm sticking with square taper on the other bikes so I'm only actually lacking the little plastic bit, £14 for that is a bit steep. I don't suppose I can get an alternate to the plastic crank bolt that takes a regular allen key, can I?

Doubt it. I think they make it out of soft plastic so that people aren't tempted to overtighten it. It's a bit like a headset (threadless) - you have to have it just a little bit tight, not too much. Worth having one as you will want to take the cranks off at some point, and those external bearings are not noted for long life.

But the underlying problem is a bit odd - why could you not get the crank on without forcing it...?

 

[Moodyman]

Darn, trying to avoid buying that as this is the crankset in use with the Forward Components mini EBB which came with its own tool for installation of the cups. I'm sticking with square taper on the other bikes so I'm only actually lacking the little plastic bit, £14 for that is a bit steep. I don't suppose I can get an alternate to the plastic crank bolt that takes a regular allen key, can I?

I considered it, but thought it was too much money for the amount of times that I'll likely need it. Might be able to get it cheaper if you shop around online.

 

[MacB]

Doubt it. I think they make it out of soft plastic so that people aren't tempted to overtighten it. It's a bit like a headset (threadless) - you have to have it just a little bit tight, not too much. Worth having one as you will want to take the cranks off at some point, and those external bearings are not noted for long life.

But the underlying problem is a bit odd - why could you not get the crank on without forcing it...?

was a secondhand crankset so possibly a bit worn in regular slot but mechanic at LBS didn't seem surprised by his having to use another bolt, with washer, to get crank on properly, said he's had to do it before.

The bearings are fine, we checked those, and replacements aren't expensive anyway. The EBB cups aren't exactly the same as the cups that would normally be used.

I'll nose around and see if I can pick up just the little plastic bit on its own.

 

[byegad]

Given I replaced my Tiagra BB bearings at under 4500miles I bought the tools. I can see I'll be replacing bearings fairly often (I count 4500 miles as often!) and they cost the same as the local LBS wanted to charge to do the job.

 

[MacB]

Given I replaced my Tiagra BB bearings at under £4500 I bought the tools. I can see I'll be replacing bearings fairly often (I count 4500 miles as often!) and they cost the same as the local LBS wanted to charge to do the job.

I have the tool for removing the cups(they aren't hollowtech cups), I have the allen keys for removing the left crank, it's only the little plastic bit that I don't have the tool for.

 

[Moodyman]

Mac - Plastic tool at Chain reaction £1.99

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3785

 

[oliglynn]

my lbs had one of them for 3 quid - try more bike shops in your vicinity if getting one off t'internet is too much hassle. I damaged my previous crank bolt (plastic piece of s**t) by removing it with pliers. Oops!

Anyway that creaking and loosening you get on your left crank arm sounds remarkably familiar. I'm trying to sort it out on my bike which is less than a year old. Have threadlocked the 2 cross-bolts and it's holding but it's still creaking badly, even when torqued above the manufacturer's recommended limit.

Think a warranty claim may be on the cards...

 

[MacB]

Mac - Plastic tool at Chain reaction £1.99

http://www.chainreac...px?ModelID=3785

superb, ordered, no idea why I couldn't find it myself

 

[astonish]

Hi, I have tiagra hollowtech and have the ticking noise, ifi remove the plastic centre cap & loosen the two Allen bolts, then tightenall back up again the tick will go for a short while, I have removed the crankarm and looked down the Allen key bolt holes towards the threaded end, the machiningis terrible as they don’t line up, so the treaded part of the bolts touch andshow thread marks on the wrong part, I’m sure this is part of the problem andis just bad workmanship by shimano. Take your crank arms off and have a look!