Explain gears to an idiot?

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Melonfish

Evil Genius in training.
Location
Warrington, UK
Okay i get the jist of gears but i don't get the know how.
i've got a new hybrid,
on the front i have: Shimano FC-M191 48/38/28
the cassette is: Shimano MF-TZ07 14-34T

however i might as well have just said all that in klingon because i have no idea what that all means. (tlhIngan Hol Dajatlh’a’?)
I understand that i'll go faster using the larger cog on the front and the smallest cog on the rear.
i have no idea what speeds i should be capable of (theory wise) with these gears, and i'm totally lost as to what the HUGE cog on the cassette is for.

please help a clueless noob. consider it a mercy :biggrin:
thanks
pete





 

numbnuts

Legendary Member
 
I quite like the Machinehead software for getting figures out to do with theoretical speeds, unless you pay for it you only get 2 chainring settings and 6 cog setting but that is good enough for me. Guessing at your 14-34T cassette its a mega range; all the cogs will gradually get bigger (have more teeth) but the last one will get a lot bigger (the 34T) providing you with a extra low gear better for climbing. As you've noted big on the front/ small on the back enables you to go faster but it is the exact opposite when it comes to hill (small front/ large back) to enable you to climb them easier. IHTH :-)
 

jack the lad

Well-Known Member
Big cog at front, smallest at rear to go fastest - downhill with the wind behind you.

Small cog at front, biggest at rear to go slowest - uphill with the wind against you.

All the in-between gears for everything in-between.

Humans have quite a narrow rev range that they can work efficiently at, so you need lots of gears to keep your legs going round at a comfortable speed. There's no right and wrong speed - but if you are new to this, I would suggest trying a slightly lower gear and making your legs go slightly faster than you might think you should. There are no prizes for pushing hard gears very slowly, it just knackers your knees! Choose a gear for each situation that gives you a rhythm that feels comfortable for you and change down early on hills before you start straining.

Also try to avoid using combinations of gears that make your chain bend too much from side to side, i.e. dont use the smallest inner cog at the front with the smallest outer ones at the back and vice versa. The middle cog at the front, with one of the middle cogs at the back will give a very similar gear ratio without the mechanical strain.

The most commonly used gears will probably be
1 (smallest) front with 1,2 or 3 (biggest) at rear
2 front with 2,3,4,5,6 rear
3 front with 5,6,7 rear.

You will probably stick in 2 at the front for most of the time and normally change the gears at the back more, only dropping to 1 or going up to 3 as the gradient/wind/feeling good changes.

As you get fitter and stronger you might start using higher gears in any given situation, but it is more likely you will just be pedalling faster.

Hope this helps.
 
OP
OP
Melonfish

Melonfish

Evil Genius in training.
Location
Warrington, UK
Big cog at front, smallest at rear to go fastest - downhill with the wind behind you.

Small cog at front, biggest at rear to go slowest - uphill with the wind against you.

All the in-between gears for everything in-between.

Humans have quite a narrow rev range that they can work efficiently at, so you need lots of gears to keep your legs going round at a comfortable speed. There's no right and wrong speed - but if you are new to this, I would suggest trying a slightly lower gear and making your legs go slightly faster than you might think you should. There are no prizes for pushing hard gears very slowly, it just knackers your knees! Choose a gear for each situation that gives you a rhythm that feels comfortable for you and change down early on hills before you start straining.

Also try to avoid using combinations of gears that make your chain bend too much from side to side, i.e. dont use the smallest inner cog at the front with the smallest outer ones at the back and vice versa. The middle cog at the front, with one of the middle cogs at the back will give a very similar gear ratio without the mechanical strain.

The most commonly used gears will probably be
1 (smallest) front with 1,2 or 3 (biggest) at rear
2 front with 2,3,4,5,6 rear
3 front with 5,6,7 rear.

You will probably stick in 2 at the front for most of the time and normally change the gears at the back more, only dropping to 1 or going up to 3 as the gradient/wind/feeling good changes.

As you get fitter and stronger you might start using higher gears in any given situation, but it is more likely you will just be pedalling faster.

Hope this helps.

i think i'm getting a bit more of an understanding at least, cheers. i also think i'm making a mahoosive noob mistake, i'm mostly in my 48 front and then use the higher 3 of my rear. this pretty much does my commute, i'm starting to think i'm not spinning enough, perhaps i'm pushing too much.

that huge gear the 34T really threw me when i first got the bike, i was wondering if it was there to allow me to litterally climb walls :biggrin:
 

arallsopp

Post of The Year 2009 winner
Location
Bromley, Kent
I understand that i'll go faster using the larger cog on the front and the smallest cog on the rear.


Hmmm... Not quite sure on this one, mate. You will go further for each revolution of the pedals in a high gear (large at front, small at back) but your actual speed will still be proportional to the speed you push the pedals around. If I want a burst of speed, I tend to go to a lower gear as that lets me spin up faster.

Anyway, I'm off topic. Here's gears for you.

Imagine you have no choice of gears, and that you're always in the 28 on the front and the 14 on the back. (28/14). Every time you push the pedals around, 28 chain links will get dragged around the front ring (there's one link for each tooth, see?).

Down the back of the bike, there are only 14 teeth, but there's still one tooth per chain link, so the only way the extra 14 links can be handled is for the back wheel to spin twice as fast as you're pedalling. Now it'll eat up chain using 2 x 14 teeth, so 28 links, which is what you had at the front, so all is good.

As it happens, you'll travel about 7 feet every time the rear wheel goes around, so that'll be 14 feet travelled for each rev of the pedals. If you want to go faster, you have to pedal faster. To get up to top speed, you'd have to pedal ludicrously fast.

Problem with humans is that they can only really exert a decent amount of power within a narrow band of pedal speeds. For me, its centred around 110 revs per minute, and that won't be fast enough.

This is where gears become useful, as they let us vary our rate of travel without changing the speed we're pedalling at. By switching to the 38 cog at the front, I'd be pulling another 10 chain links for every spin of the pedals. That would take me about 19 feet along the road. If I'm still able to pedal at the same speed, I'll be moving a fair whack faster.

Assuming I'm still pedalling slower than I want to, I switch up to the 48 at the front. Now the back wheel is going around 3 and a half times for every pedal revolution, and I'm travelling 24 feet every time I push the pedals around. Now I'm going some.

So far, so good. Now the road starts to head up hill. Its requiring more effort to keep the pedals going around, and I can't keep up. My cadence (the speed I'm pushing the pedals around at) drops to about 70 revs per minute. This is too slow for me to deliver power effectively, so I slow down even more. Just like a car, I'm going to stall.

Instead of grinding to a halt, I drop back down to the little 28 cog. As I'm travelling less far per pedal revolution, it fees a lot easier on my legs. I can actually keep going. The ground levels out, I switch back up, and carry on.

On your bike, you can vary the gear at *both* ends of the chain, but the principle still holds. If you repeated the above using the 34 tooth rear, you'd find you went less than 6 ft for each full pedal revolution on the 28, and less than 10ft on the 48. Chances are, you'd never run out of power, but you'd almost certainly find you couldn't pedal fast enough to make decent progress.

When in doubt, shove it in the middle at the back and use the front to do the big changes. Or shove it in the middle at the front and use the back to make smaller in-ride adjustments. You can break things by running nasty combinations (small and small, or big and big, for example) so the middle is always safe ground to run to.

Andy.
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
I looked into this thread to see if I could help.
But Andy's brilliant explanation has left me with little to say ....

However if combinations of numbers are not your thing, try thinking like of it like this.
Front gears: Little ring (28) is our Low range of gears
Middle Ring is the Middle range of gears that we use Most

The big ring.... well that's like an overdrive.... it doesnt have much "grunt", but if were already going as fast as possible in the middle ring that will get us a little faster, without turning legs faster.


Back gears: Now we only have to deal with a single number.... for fine tuning.

However ... a general principle you lose two out of the back gears in each of these 3 ranges - so in practice you have

Low: 1,2,3,4,5
Midddle: 2,3,4,5,6
Big: 3,4,5,6,7
 
OP
OP
Melonfish

Melonfish

Evil Genius in training.
Location
Warrington, UK
well i'm now a gear expert :biggrin: some cracking advice thank you! i think i understand how to use my gears a little better now, in fact i've been putting alot of whats here into practice.
where previously i was pushing like a maniac on my big ring in about 5/6 i'm now mostly in my middle ring and using the range a bit more i switch up to the large cog when i'm really flying. i'm actually finding it much easier to pedal, i'm keeping my heart rate up a bit more and my average speed is climbing :biggrin:

thanks guys.
pete
 
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