Decathlon Riverside 500 with rattling fork

[gabgab]

hi guys,

So i have this bike from Decathlon https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/riverside-500-hybrid-bike/_/R-p-300777 which i have to say is good value for money. Had it from about 1.5 years and have on it about 9000km ballpark... A side from the occasional squeaky sound which i can live with, something i am really annoyed about is that the front fork really rattles when you do some decent braking.

Ok granted i don't have an expensive fork on and it's probably made of cheese but still, does that mean that the fork is finished?

Basically, if you break, you can see the tyre axel really pulling backwards, so if you do a good pull, then it will simply move backwards but in 90% of cases when you simply want to modulate the braking, it will move tr tr tr tr tr dont know how to explain it and really moves back and forth. Sometimes i am thinking, is it gonna break?

Recently brought it for some other repairs, they tightened the nut on the headtube, seemed to be a bit better but then in real world was exactly the same.

Didn't do a video but this should explain where i feel moving it etc.

Are there any inner parts that can be replaced / oiled / changed? Or is just a matter of putting a new fork on?

many thanks,
Gabrio

 

[Ajax Bay]

On the description you give, the first guess culprit is the headset interface with the steerer tube.
There are bearings at the top and bottom of the headtube and the fork's steerer passes through them. If there is a lack of longitudinal compression, when you brake the bars will rock forward. Test: With bike stationary apply front brake and push the bars forward. Is there movement? Do that and share the result, please.
Or it's a pad/rotor interface issue.
Doubt it's the fork itself (so it's not 'finished') and equally don't think this symptom is a harbinger of 'failure'.

 

[Big John]

My money would be on the headset, as Ajax has suggested. Looks like the mechanic spotted a bit of play and took the easy fix of tightening the bolt at the top of the steerer after first loosening the stem bolts without actually inspecting the bearings. Sometimes that works, as it happens, but a look at the bearings wouldn't have done any harm. There are lots of videos on YouTube showing how to inspect/service/replace the headset. Don't be put off by those expensive looking tools because my guess is you won't be removing/replacing any cups, you'll hopefully be either greasing and snugging everything up or popping the old bearings out and putting new ones in. You might need to invest in a headset wrench but they're not mega bucks and it will get used over time.

 

[fossyant]

Headset....

 

[overmind]

I wonder if it is simple as; they tightened the nut but did not first loosen the stem bolts.
Steps
- loosen stem bolts
- tighten hex screw on headset
- tighten stem bolts
- check for wobble
- if wobble (or too stiff) then repeat from step 1.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I wonder if it is simple as; they tightened the nut but did not first loosen the stem bolts.

Steps
1- Test [see post #2] and - if wobble
2- loosen stem bolts
3- tighten hex screw on headset
4- tighten stem bolts
5- check for wobble
6- if wobble (or too stiff) then repeat from step 2 (NB loosen if too stiff)
It could be that simple, IF it's the headset set up. I have taken the liberty of plagiarising your text.

 

[overmind]

@Ajax Bay Your post is an improvement. Thanks.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Slightly annoyingly, the OP has not been back (to reap our gratuitous advice) since posting 2 days ago.

 

[bikingdad90]

Good shout @Ajax Bay, only other thing I would say is potentially the headset may need replacing if the bearings have worn from the play if it was used for any extended period of time since the problem first emerged.