Dawes Diploma

[wheresthetorch]

Picked up an old Dawes on eBay - not freewheeling, gears out of adjustment (Sturmey Archer 3-speed) brakes pretty ropey etc. Have started to fix it and do it up, and took it for a test ride last night.

Next jobs are a new saddle and pedals, and a nice tool bag and so on, to make myself a 'gentleman's tourer'.

 

[uphillstruggler]

Good luck, more images would be good

 

[raleighnut]

Nice.

To cure the freewheel I'd get some oil into the hub but also have a look at the cone adjustment, they seem to need to be quite slack (in comparison to a 'normal' wheel) When I had my hub built into a wheel it was a bit 'stiff' to freewheel and I said to John that I'd run some thin oil/WD40 into the oiling port thinking it'd be just old oil/grease in there and a bit of corrosion but he told me that I'd need to adjust the cones so I checked em and they felt fine (the axle turned nicely but without a chain on) however I decided to loosen them off a bit to allow the Oil to get in there and flush em out and that cured it, without there being any play at the wheel rim.

 

[biggs682]

loads of good google replies on sturmey archer setting up

 

[wheresthetorch]

Nice.

To cure the freewheel I'd get some oil into the hub but also have a look at the cone adjustment, they seem to need to be quite slack (in comparison to a 'normal' wheel) When I had my hub built into a wheel it was a bit 'stiff' to freewheel and I said to John that I'd run some thin oil/WD40 into the oiling port thinking it'd be just old oil/grease in there and a bit of corrosion but he told me that I'd need to adjust the cones so I checked em and they felt fine (the axle turned nicely but without a chain on) however I decided to loosen them off a bit to allow the Oil to get in there and flush em out and that cured it, without there being any play at the wheel rim.

Spot on! I did a bit of research, and the cone on the non-drive side needed loosening; apparently you mess with the cones of the drive side of a Sturmey Archer at your peril!

loads of good google replies on sturmey archer setting up

Thanks. I did just that, and I think the gears are about right now - clue is a lovely gentle ticking in second and third as I coast along! And a 'neutral' between second and third.

Just remembered I need a rear mudguard as well <shuffles off to eBay>

 

[wheresthetorch]

Good luck, more images would be good

Thanks - yes, will take a few more, and update as work progresses.

 

[wheresthetorch]

Attached are a few more pictures, as requested.

 

[mjr]

Is that a fully sprung saddle or one of the nasty late clones with a hard plastic base?

 

[wheresthetorch]

Is that a fully sprung saddle or one of the nasty late clones with a hard plastic base?

Hmm - have to admit I don't know. Will take a closer look tomorrow (it's dark and spidery in the garage at the moment! )

 

[biggs682]

@wheresthetorch that looks good

 

[EltonFrog]

Are the handlebars supposed to be like that or have they been turned round?

 

[mjr]

Are the handlebars supposed to be like that or have they been turned round?

They're meant to point backwards but have been "flipped" so they slope down rather than up (here's a modern Diploma with similar handlebars the other way up - and at an odd angle IMO). People have flipped swept bars for decades, enabling a lower riding-position akin to old path/racers.

 

[wheresthetorch]

Are the handlebars supposed to be like that or have they been turned round?

Yes, I flipped them myself for a racier old-school look.

 

[EltonFrog]

Yes, I flipped them myself for a racier old-school look.

I thought so, the bike looks ACE.

 

[wheresthetorch]

Is that a fully sprung saddle or one of the nasty late clones with a hard plastic base?

I think it comes under the latter category!