Cycling Questions?

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dav1d

Senior Member
Although not a beginner at cycling, my maximum distance has only been around 20 miles each way (40 in total), which isn't good (so would this post be in the correct board? Sorry if it's not)! But I do cycle a lot (just not very far usually). I cycle almost everywhere I go though.I would be interested in doing some long ride (I live in Salford, Greater Manchester and read years ago about some ride that goes to Blackpool, does this still exist?), say 100 miles or more. So I would like some tips on basically everything about cycling! lol
How long should I train for, how far should I go?What foods would be good on the ride (without putting on weight)?I often take tuna pasta salad - is that a good meal (I do add a bit of low fat mayo though)?I don't currently have any cycling clothes, do I need these? Which are best (not Lycra please!)? Any cheap ones anywhere? Are cycling shoes good? Can you get them in a size 12 (looked through a cycling magazine and they only went up to 11 I think)? Do cycling shoes grip the peddles or something?What would be the best cheap mountain bike (I prefer mountain bikes to racing bikes? Is my £90 Sabre Kinetic ok for training? I know it's a very cheap bike, but my last one was actually half price that from Woolworths and that got my brother on a journey to Southampton with no problems (other than his tired legs)!)Thanks,David
 

Rockus

Senior Member
Location
Glasgow
Hey David, many questions there. im sure theres been discussion on some of these issues before. Anyhow in terms of food, on your ride take some slow realise carbs (pastas fine, also bread (sandwiches) that kind of thing) sip some lucosade -not fizzy and some water as you go. Dont fear fat as its a great source of energy -although i wouldnt eat really fatty things just before or during the ride. It takes the body longer and to break them down.

The rule is eat before hungry and drink before thirsty.

Cycling clothes i've found go a long way to improving comfort and efficiency and its nice to have something specific to sweat into. If lycras not your bag, you can get cycling shorts that have an inner padded short (may well be of lycra type material- but its hidden). Anti bacterial base layers keep you warm and dry and resist smelling.

Ive found that in cycling theres def. such a thing as false economy -beware!

Oh consider some wind proof gloves too - perhaps with specific padding if you want to ride with straight bars.

Cycling shoes with cleats -that allow you to clip into your pedals-are i believe a must, track down the gear and get it set up -you will not regret this move; even after falling over a few times.

If youre riding on the road only, you want a stiff frame i.e. one without suspension -that just sucks your energy and adds weight. consider changing you wheels to skinny slicks with puncture protection. Actually hydrid bikes are an ok choice. If it was me id buy a racing bike; since ive found bikes to be quite specialised beasts... And you will get a little miffed if some guy on a racing bike glides past you, while you're blowing out your arse.

Those are just some basic things to think about -like i said theres tons of info out there.

Rotes
 

Paulus

Started young, and still going.
Location
Barnet,
Hi there, in short, eat stuff like cereal bars, Jordans frusli are good, flapjacks, carrot cake even jam sandwhiches. Make sure you drink enough water before and during the ride. Once you are thirsty it is too late and you are de-hydrated.
As far as cycling clothes go, a good pair of cycling shorts are a must. There are may to choose from, you don't have to wear skin tight lycra, there are many baggy shorts with padding inside, and a cycling specific jersey will keep you from getting too sweaty. A decent rain top is also a must.
As for cycling shoes, they are much better than ordinary trainers or shoes, but you should also get the pedals to go with them.
Go for a bike without suspension as much of the power goes into the suspension and not to the back wheel. If you can already do 20 miles each way you are already well on the way to doing the ton. Good luck.
 
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dav1d

Senior Member
Thanks for the tips. As well as my suspension bike, I've got an old Peugeot Carbolite 103 racing bike that just needs some new tyres (though the back dynamo light needs a new cover, and I prefer battery powered lights). Would this be ok?Is the built in back wheel lock on it common on these types of bikes? Just curious. :wacko:
What happens with the clip on shoes when you stop at a traffic light? Do they unclip easily to be able to do this?
 

runner

Guru
Location
Bristol
clip on shoes at traffic lights...ah the old favourite place of collapse and looking utterly stupid to all those drivers behind! Go on admit it how many of us when first using clip ons have got the timing just wrong and toppled over at traffic lights...boy do you feel a fool..however dav1d you learn from this and rarely ever do it again. When you get use to spd's and you will very quick you will never go back to not having them. It's a question of energy/efficiency and with clip ons all energy is immediately transmitted to the forward momento of the bike....you feel part of the machine...you are the mahine...you are invincible ( getting a little carried away here ) but you get the idea. get clip ons...you know it makes sense :evil:
 

runner

Guru
Location
Bristol
eh forgot to answer your question...the first thing to do is alter the tension so that you feet slip out easily and on approach to t lights unclip one foot....it's easy....like learning to ride a bike :evil:
 

Arch

Married to Night Train
Location
Salford, UK
hi Dav1d, welcome...

Frankly, if you can do 40 miles, you're sort of half way there to 100. Build up gradually - once you can do 70 for example, 100 isn't really so much more - I know technically it's 30 more, but those 30 won't be half so hard as they would be to someone who can only do 10. Does that make sense?

First tour I did, I'd never done more than 30, within 4 days or regular riding I did 66...

Also, if you are talking about a big group ride, you'll find that a group carries you along and makes it much easier than if you're on your own.
 

Ivan Ardon

Well-Known Member
The Peugeot will be a much better bike for longer rides than your MTB. A pair of tyres and tubes (from £15 upwards), remove the dynamo system if you prefer battery lights, and you're set to go.
 
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dav1d

Senior Member
The dynamo system is on the mudguards, so it's not in the way if I put battery lights on. If the lights stayed on when stopped, I'd just use those, but they don't.
Arch said:
hi Dav1d, welcome...

Frankly, if you can do 40 miles, you're sort of half way there to 100. Build up gradually - once you can do 70 for example, 100 isn't really so much more - I know technically it's 30 more, but those 30 won't be half so hard as they would be to someone who can only do 10. Does that make sense?

First tour I did, I'd never done more than 30, within 4 days or regular riding I did 66...

Also, if you are talking about a big group ride, you'll find that a group carries you along and makes it much easier than if you're on your own.

When I said 100 miles, I guess I should have said 200 as I meant 100 each way (I often make that mistake, not counting the return journey!). I would like to do much more than that, but I know I have to be sensible and build up to it!
 
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