Cutting my steerer down..erm...

[Bigtallfatbloke]

My new Bianchi seems to fit me well. I lined up both my bikes and compared them. The Bianchi is a 61cm frame (59cm TT & 120mm stem)and the Galaxy a 64cm frame (58.5cmTT & 110mm stem).

Looking at the two bikes together I tried to set the Galaxy as close to the Bianchi as I could because the Bianchi just feels right.




Notice how that meant dropping the bar height on the galaxy leaving several spacers above the bars:



So I am tempted to get rid of those ugly upper spacers rings by cutting the head tube down and get it looking more like this:



BUT...

1) How do I do it?
2) Inside the head tube is the top of the steerer tube which has some kind of 'gubbins' on the top of it which looks like I shouldn't be cutting that bit off...so should I cut it from the bottom instead?
3) The bike feels better with the lower bars, but that is when it is unloaded...will carrying a full load with the lower bars be a mistake? (Yes I know I could load it up and ride it but I'm to lazy right now)

I take it that once done there is no way back right? Dawes won't have replacement forks I am 100% sure of that (all they do is import complete bikes it seems), so I want to be sure, and I want to get it right. Is this a job for LBS man or is it well within the realms of Hacksaw man? Is this an expensive job at the LBS?

 

[domtyler]

I got mine done at my bike shop for about a tenner as I remember.

 

[bonj2]

It's well within the realms of a hacksaw, but get a good one with a good sharp (new?), tight, blade - not the rusty old junior hacksaw lying around.
IF it's a carbon steerer put tape round it so you don't get inhale carbon dust.
The most important thing is to cut it straight.

if in doubt - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/Cyclus_Steerer_Cutting_Guide/5360017211/ or try and improvise as that's quite expsnive.

 

[bonj2]

So I am tempted to get rid of those ugly upper spacers rings by cutting the head tube down and get it looking more like this:



BUT...

1) How do I do it?
2) Inside the head tube is the top of the steerer tube which has some kind of 'gubbins' on the top of it which looks like I shouldn't be cutting that bit off...the gubbins is the star fangled nut, as long as don't cut THROUGH it, you're ok. either tap it down to where it needs to be and then cut above it, or cut the bit that contains it off (it looks like you're cutting enough off to be able to do that) and then take it out of the waste bit and re insert it. (for which you will need a TNS - threadless nut setter, or LBS but only 10 second job for them)

3) The bike feels better with the lower bars, but that is when it is unloaded...will carrying a full load with the lower bars be a mistake? (Yes I know I could load it up and ride it but I'm to lazy right now)
shouldn't do - would imagine the geometry would be what mattered

I take it that once done there is no way back right?
no way back!

Dawes won't have replacement forks I am 100% sure of that
no but there's no law saying you have to have dawes forks. I've got different forks on my bike to the ones it came with

in bold above...

 

[kyuss]

1) Take the fork out, mark the point where it needs cut (remember it needs to be 2mm or 3mm shorter than the top of the stem) and use an old stem or at very least a piece of tape to make sure you are cutting it square. Then get yer hacksaw out and go for it.

2) The 'gubbins' is the star nut, to which the top bolt attaches allowing you to preload the headset. You're right, you don't want to be cutting this, but you can't cut from the bottom. There's nothing to cut down their. You can tap the star nut further into the steerer using a piece of broom handle or short piece of pipe, but tap gently and try and keep it square to the inside of the tube. If you balls this up it's not the end of the world as you can just tap it right down to the very bottom of the steerer and fit another one, or even better a proper steerer bung which is pretty idiot proof to fit.

3) I'd be tempted to leave it as it is until you are certain it's comfortable loaded up, because as you say, once it's cut there's no going back. Ride it as is for a couple of weeks before deciding.

Al that said, I doubt your LBS would charge much more than £5-£10 to do it all for you. Peace of mind is worth that at least.

 

[Bigtallfatbloke]

...ok thanks...I think for a tenner i may as well go to the LBS and avoid a monumental cock up my end.

 

[Disgruntled Goat]

The LBS is your friend.

 

[rich p]

I prefer to be a bit more upright on my tourer than on my road bike. 3 weeks of leaning forward might be a bit too much for my back. i'd leave it be until you've done a tour loaded as has been suggested.

 

[sloe]

I prefer to be a bit more upright on my tourer than on my road bike. 3 weeks of leaning forward might be a bit too much for my back. i'd leave it be until you've done a tour loaded as has been suggested.

ditto

Leave it for a bit.

 

[P.H]

The spacers above the stem aren't going to hurt anyone. Do a tour with it first. What may feel right on your road bike may not feel right on a loaded touring bike at the end of a long day. My touring bike is set up quite different to my road bike, both right for purpose.

EDIT - sorry missed the two posts above, yes what they said.

 

[spandex]

BTFB it's a shame you don't live near me as I would show you how to do it all.

 

[spandex]

I used a hacksaw when I got my frame a couple of years ago, just take it nice and steady and file away any burrs.

So do bike shops But... some do use pipe cutters which do leave a very nice finish BTW

 

[spandex]

I just bite it

 

[spandex]

Yep it sounds like you did

 

[just jim]

listen to rich p + sloe for they are wise and speaketh the commonsense....